Repair tips and tricks

anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
We have a few really useful threads on here, particularly the 300 Database. However we dont really have a thread to discuss tips and tricks that can make life easier for working on bikes. Maybe @Greg could pin it.

I'll start the thread with straightening an aluminum subframe.

The wreck that Jack had in St. George that resulted in a broken arm wiped out a set of Flexx Bars and bent his subframe pretty good.

The bars are a total loss.



However I did not want to spend $150 buying a new subframe.
20181216_160919.jpg


To the thrill of my wife, I put it in the oven at 325* for about 30 minutes to get the aluminum to a more pliable temp. Next I bolted to the bike and proceeded to beat it with a plastic mallet to push it back to the right. In doing this it also raised the right side back up almost to where it needed to be. Wanting to get it back to almost perfect, I heated it again and pounded it a little more then used a 36" pry bar to bring the right side up the last little bit.

Good enough to satisfy me.

20181216_183836.jpg
 

2002maniac

Active Member
Location
Brigham City
This is timely advice considering I pretzeled my Ktm subframe on 5moh a few weeks ago.

I wonder what alloy the subframe is? Seems like a glycol quench and artificial age would probably be appropriate to restore the proper HT condition.
 

Tonkaman

Well-Known Member
Location
West Jordan
We have a few really useful threads on here, particularly the 300 Database. However we dont really have a thread to discuss tips and tricks that can make life easier for working on bikes. Maybe @Greg could pin it.

I'll start the thread with straightening an aluminum subframe.

The wreck that Jack had in St. George that resulted in a broken arm wiped out a set of Flexx Bars and bent his subframe pretty good.

The bars are a total loss.



However I did not want to spend $150 buying a new subframe.
20181216_160919.jpg


To the thrill of my wife, I put it in the oven at 325* for about 30 minutes to get the aluminum to a more pliable temp. Next I bolted to the bike and proceeded to beat it with a plastic mallet to push it back to the right. In doing this it also raised the right side back up almost to where it needed to be. Wanting to get it back to almost perfect, I heated it again and pounded it a little more then used a 36" pry bar to bring the right side up the last little bit.

Good enough to satisfy me.

20181216_183836.jpg
Great idea to put it in the oven! Never thought of that
 

anderson750

I'm working on it Rose
Location
Price, Utah
Draining oil can be messy, especially if you have a skid plate. I came across a thread on KTMTalk about a drain tool that somebody was selling. After looking at it, I decided to make my own out of a threaded barb fitting and some tubing.

H1kM.jpg


Lean the bike over to remove the drain plug and thread the barbed fitting in.

HePz.jpg


stand it up and let it drain.

Hvz8.jpg


It drains a bit slower than just taking out the plug, but worth not having to deal with removing the skid plate. I also created one of these to drain the coolant.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Last edited:

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
I'm more concerned with the weld on the shifter..
Fair point haha. It was like that when I bought it. I've got a new shift selector shaft and shifter, but I've got to pull the motor and split the inner case halves in order to swap it, aaaand she's probably got 20hrs of dropping it lots so far without further failure... so that will likely wait till winter.
 

Gravy

Ant Anstead of Dirtbikes
Supporting Member
Here's a new one for you guys.
Run bibs.
Didn't even know this was an issue until I got back to the truck. (This was on a slower 20+ mile race marking ride). 20230603_144535.jpg

Likely the nut backed off. Another thing to loctite now...
20230605_105951.jpg

The rimlock buried itself inside the bib mousse.
20230605_120706.jpg
 
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