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Suzuki XL-7 build- “XL7-UP”

The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
More test fitting. I will probably need a drop puck for the strut tower mount. Strut is my limiting factor right now for down travel, up travel is about spot on compared to stock. I need to drop my coils in next to see if they’ll even work. They are from a 2wd 2nd gen Tacoma IIRC. 45lbs more than stock, and about 1” longer. Hoping for around 2” of suspension lift with them.



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The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Been fighting these dang Tacoma coils for far too long, making adjustments and testing. Finally was able to get the coil to seat. At full droop, the coil physically can’t fall out without grabbing a pry bar to pop it out, that’s right about perfect for what I’m going for. Just working on getting the top plate burned in next, then will copy all the stuff to the drivers side arm.


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The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Thoughts on this rear bumper I slapped together? Still needs caps and plates, etc.

I feel like it looks kinda out of place but can’t quite figure out where I went wrong..
I still need to bring it down in the middle so to speak too for the receiver.

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Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
The outside corners don't quite work for me. The blunt cut main tube looks like it needs more of a compound angle to meet with the side and upper tube.

It is hard to tell if there needs to be more added that will affect the look, but right now the squared off ends are throwing me off.
 
The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
The plate arms were hacked and repaired one too many times, so I started fresh. The plate arms will continue to be a pet project with the hope I can one day make them work without looking all ghetto.

DOM courtesy of the roll cage Vonski gave me!

I also reworked the jig. Now, the bushing cups align off one piece of 1.5” DOM to keep straight, as opposed to a couple independent bolts. Test fit was smooth as butter already.

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S

STAG

Well-Known Member
Since you restarted over, can you adjust the base of the spring cup so that it’s not putting such a torque on the spring and that it’s more in-line vertically? That would be my outsiders input.
 
The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
STAG said:
Since you restarted over, can you adjust the base of the spring cup so that it’s not putting such a torque on the spring and that it’s more in-line vertically? That would be my outsiders input.
Click to expand...
I did just that, the bottom plate is now at a slight angle, I’ll have to measure exactly. After studying other aftermarket arms, they all seem to be built that way too.

One thing to note, by doing that, as well as by putting the ball joint under the arm, I can gain another inch of lift while still using the same coil spring.
 
The_Lobbster

The_Lobbster

Well-Known Member
Did quite a bit today. Focused on getting the non custom stuff reassembled. Crossmember is back in, removed the pile of bolts and screws from the air box, got all the trans plugs and shift cable connected. Then I test fit the new passenger control arm, cycled it for clearance testing, and established how long of tie rods to order. New Gabriel struts from an Oldsmobile Cutlass/Regal/Lumina arrived, length difference can be noted.

Fun fact I discovered the other day, this Suzuki has an A750F transmission. The same trans that was in 4Runners, Tacomas, and Tundras!

And an even funner fact, you can buy an adapter for the A750 to run gear drive Yota cases, so in theory, I could get a doubler setup on this rig in the future!


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