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I agree about the jd2 and if I was in the market that’s what I’d go with. It’s what I learned to notch with and is solid. The product above was discovered on social media so I looked it up for more details.

https://www.roguefab.com/product/versanotcher-universal-tubing-notcher/ Interesting product. I see it offers several solutions like stupid easy offset notches and notching in the radius. My concerns are overall durability and the price is shocking.

A way for the miles to not accumulate so fast or reduce them somehow. 10,000 miles on ours since October. Keep an eye on the outer felt wiper strips for the door glass. Already caught the driver side balled up/rolled inside out from the glass pulling it down.

Once the vegetation mitigation is complete, I suggest the tasteful acquisition of fine classic automobiles thoughtfully positioned throughout the yard. You don’t have to water them and they age nicely in the sun.

Any idea of how the pump failed or do you expect PSC to follow up with you what they find?

Lathe vs tig. I need em both PDQ but it’s easier for me to have someone turn a part for me than to think of someone performing a welding job for me. Ooooh then I could gun drill most non essential bolts also for the extra bling and weight redux. Lovin your work man. Details details details

I’m claiming the theft of turning the bolt heads now so I won’t have to later when I’m busy doing such trickery to mine

Correct, 12oz beer cans are the recognized standard for joint measurements unlike the old joint which must have used the 12oz bottle system...

Uniquely the wasatch front closely combines the rail with a dense mix of everything mentioned.

And I’ll add that because of there being a qualified two person crew consist aboard that train they were the first means of critical contact and communication of the derailment to first responders and emergency personnel and were able to to cut away the front portion of that train mitigating...

The guy with the coolest job in the world or the dumbest guy in the world to go in and set that charge. Pretty cool tactic.

CPC686 Jericho

Picture was too blurry when I looked before. Yes, I see the “tender” spring.

I vaguely remember the original thread. You’ve got some good plans going forward and I’ll be watching

And yes, for now, I am just an armchair quarterback battling it out on the Internet. It’s all good jinx Working on securing a shop so I can get back to building but still have mixed feelings about ever publicly sharing on the internet again.

It was all sarcasm and in good fun. Some awesome talent was used to build that setup and the aftermath discovered is pretty dang cool. The second post was asking what in the world was with the mystery OE double slip yoke type output they were not aware of until it broke. I was inquiring what...

Springs only support the vehicle, if you need more dampening control then you’ll tune with compression valving, n2 or even dark IFP depth voodoo. Springs and preload look good in the front, secondary in the rear looks good judging by your photos. If anything the preload is borderline excessive...

You have dual rate coil overs and paid a lot of money for them. Use them! You do not have a tender spring. You have primary and secondary coils. If you notice more roll, it’s because you went way beyond the limits of the spring rate split. Now those 300 lbs secondary springs don’t give and...

What was the purpose of that worthless output design and had you known about it what would your approach been? Not because metric BIIs are soooo cool sake/tech

The problem is that weld was too strong = twisted splines. Tisk tisk