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Finally made something to hold the gauges so they aren't taped to the steering column anymore. Still need to paint it black. The gauges barely fit without blocking the driver's view of the other gauges/indicators.

Attention shitty Utah drivers (yes, you.): If you ever do anything to spite another driver (no matter how much you dislike what they are doing), YOU ARE THE PROBLEM!

my 2.5L '91 YJ (multiport fuel injection, not throttle body injection) always got 17mpg with 33's and worn out engine. After the engine rebuild I did a milegae test just driving around town like a sane person, and it got 25.x mpg(!)... Driving like I typically do it was probably about 22-23mpg...

Top gear put a wood burning stove in a car. That would put out a lot of heat.

The other day, me and a buddy went snow wheeling with tires chains up the right fork past Wallsburg. Here's a short clip with some turboey sounds. Yesterday I modified a spare wastegate actuator I had, it now gives a steady 6psi. I'll post more about this later...

:(

1/8" is excessive for your use, but it would work. I'd do .093" probably. Maybe more important than the thickness is how it's built. Bends and welded corners add tons of rigidity, flat sections might bend easily but offer scrape resistance. You won't need anything between the tank and the skid...

The only thing the injector 'knows' is the pressure differential across it. If you were running a 55psi base pressure with a 1:1 regulator then 10psi boost and 65psi fuel was still the same 55psi delta pressure that's required for fueling under all moments of engine operation. You could run...

Got the MSD mounted and the NGK plugs installed. Made this mounting bracket for the FMU from some stainless scrap I had laying around. Mounted on the firewall, just inboard of the brake booster. Tomorrow I will run the high pressure hose, and wire in the MSD ignition, and possibly drop...

I've been slowly collecting stuff to handle the tuning. I've been too busy with school to work on it so far. I'm going to be doing some work on it this weekend and maybe get it running the full 7psi, so far it's been barely building 2-3psi because I have the wastegate adjusted mostly open so it...

1000hp YJ? Not enough. It needs an 8000hp top fuel motor. lol the trick is to have another fast vehicle for your speed fix, then you can think logically with your other projects.

I've still heard stories of stuff going wrong. It can be quite difficult to properly purge a large open volume like a gas tank due to swirling currents inside which can prevent it from ever purging. When filling them with water you still have to keep water away from the back side of the weld...

Be careful welding it. Gas tanks explode all the time and kill the welder, even after thoroughly washing them out.

lol. Trying to make a wrangler fast makes absolutely no sense what so ever... (and double especially since I already have a fast car).

before: gutless after: still a slow jeep

Rarely... If possible, it helps to orient the part directly below the torch since argon is over 2x heavier than air. I've welded deep inside joints before with the tungsten sticking out 1.5 inches; the argon doesn't really have anywhere to go except further into the joint.

Nope, you can just stick the tungsten out like an inch since it's such a contained area.

Well I've got er running on 2-3 psi. :greg: I had the wastegate initially modded to 5-6 psi. I added a spring on the actuator rod that opposes the internal spring thus reducing the amount of boost needed to move the rod. The downside is that you lose some travel, but it got the boost down to...

Got all the piping all done and welded. I think the only real fabrication left is welding an oil drain return bung to the oilpan, then it's just wiring gauges etc.