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It's a pretty cheap class to run, other than the motor (it costs $6000 to $7000 to build one of these up to 70hp). It sounds kinda boring with that little power, but it's actually supposedly one of the funnest classes to race in. Rob MacCachren gets paid to drive all kinds of race cars, and he...

A few more shots of Wednesday's progress...

Well Wednesday's progress consisted of assembly of the 300M gun drilled axles, lightened CVs, raced out 1600cc motor, fuel safe cell, seat, and all the pedal assemblies. Check out the custom seat sliders I built for him last year, pretty slick, and lots stronger and less sloppy than your...

On their way! Ben, good to hear from you too! Most 1600's are single seat, they are limited to a 1600cc vw motor, which only makes about 70hp running on 112 octane race fuel ( :laughing: ). The added weight of a wider chassis, second seat, and second body makes the car less competitive...

If you guys have any questions or comments, don't hesitate to post up!

I'm fabbing up a whole new dash and center console for the MD Motorsport's class 1 race car (#1510) while Don is doing all the mechanical work on 1699. I would update the avatar, but I'm so used to it. Plus the buggy pic is kind of a reward for clicking on my avatar. :D Yeah the Gerber...

37s are too much for your axles, especially the 30. I strongly advise against throwing any real money at a Dana 30. Even with every " Super" 30 part, at the end of the day it's still a 30. It will always have a Barbie sized ring and pinion. Save your money for better axles.

That is sooooo similar to what I have been dreaming of for a daily driver/weekend toy someday, nice!

Monday's focus was the front end. The suspension is a VW based trailing arm design with King 2" triple bypass shocks controlling 10" of travel. Don got everything from the spindles to the steering wheel hub installed, and some of the firewalls. The VW bus tranny also was cleaned up and set in...

Well, it's not quite 4wd, but it is strictly off-road, so I'm posting the build here to show one of the other kinds of off road vehicles that we work on here, in addition to crawlers and daily driver rigs. MD Motorsports is putting together this single seat class 1600 desert race car for...

If I'm not mistaken his old KOH car has the first generation VisionX LEDs.

I'm pretty stoked that it's spending the winter indoors, and I'm even working on it (on the rare occasion that I have a free moment). They make Halogen and HID lights that use the same housings. The HIDs cost a lot more, but they put out just a ridiculous amount of light, way more than...

Yes, these were designed specifically for desert and rockcrawling. The only time we have ever managed to break a VisionX light was during an 80 mph barrel roll, a rock got shoved through the lense. We replaced the glass and it's good as new. This car is headed to Vegas this week so Dustin...

Around $1500. It sounds expensive (ok, it IS expensive, race quality parts always are), but compared to what it's replacing, it's actually not that bad. Good race quality HID lights will run around $400 to $800 each, so by the time you build a light bar and buy all the HIDs, you could actually...

I'm gonna have to throw one on the Willys...

VisionX just released an even newer LED light bar. We just got one of the first ones, figured you guys might want to see how bad-a this thing is. Their first generation of LED light bars were called Xmitter iirc. The new generation, which is blindingly bright I might add, is called RefleX...

That's crazy! In the overhead view you can see the new car crumples in the hood area, leaving the passenger compartment whole, and the bel-air the hood section stays pretty intact and the passenger compartment see's the brunt of the damage. Oh and :mad: about the classic car looking like it...

Nice, you should update this thread with your final numbers and your impression on how they work when you do it. :)

Unfortunatley there is no magic number for it, it is a compromise. High AS will provide more "bite" at the moment of torque application, as long as you have traction. Low AS will "bite" less under forward driving torque, but it reacts more consistently in low traction situations. IMO...

I would look for a good NGL-3 EP grease, thicker than your run of the mill NGL-2. And I'm with Spork, moly-d is pretty much always a good thing. I'm shocked that any company that knows how to properly heat treat 300M wouldn't include grease or instructions with their joints. I've...