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Oh heck yes, I want one. There’s like 15 for sale. At least most of them have twin Cummins 12 valves 🤤 https://www.gsaauctions.gov/auctions/preview/251408

I’ve been planning on getting one too but the $400+ price tag sucks. I’ve seen a few used on KSL for around $100-$150 though. Sorry I couldn’t help!

Interested to see how the rest of it looks because that looks almost identical to the die of a 7/8” (1”OD) HVAC bender. Looks like the radius is larger though. I bet the plastic will hold up fine, most benders use plastic dies.

If the house is that well insulated, it should be keeping up. It is very humid right now, and to cool, you must dehumidify first. I would try to find a mom and pop shop that’s reputable, they’re usually the cheapest and most honest. Anybody that mass advertises, such as AnyHour, Whipple, etc...

Hard to say then without throwing gauges on it to see what’s going on. If I was closer I’d be glad to stop by and take a look, but I live in Springville.

That can indeed cause high motor temp, but a lot of times it’s just a capacitor that needs replaced, once it gets weak the motor draws higher amps causing it to get warm. I would check to make sure it’s spinning the correct direction, if it’s a universal motor that has reversible direction...

What filter type? Return and supply temps? Clean coil on the condenser? How’s the insulation of your home? And lastly, indoor or outdoor fan motor replaced?

Little over two pound tri tip on charcoal tonight. Went a bit over temp because the thick side wanted to stay at 115° while the rest was already at 140°, still delicious. I know the red plate isn’t aesthetically pleasing, it’s my cheapo grill plate that can get trashed/cut on, so try to ignore it!

Polishes the track, haven’t you ever wondered why tracks are shiny on top and not rusty? 😂

I’ve heard from a reputable source (Hollywood) that putting a conductor across both tracks can screw up that signal. That true?

Hopefully that’s for sure the leak zone. Unfortunately, indoor coils are frequently blamed when the tech is lazy/incompetent and can’t do a proper leak search. And quite frequently, leaks do occur there, it sees drastic temp swings from AC to heat cycles, so micro cracks can develop. I have...

I feel that, I’m 6’5” with a 36” inseam. Flying sucks if not first class.

Running additives to improve lubricity will greatly help save the CP4. You can buy a bypass kit for the 6.7 fords, but for some reason I don’t think there was ever a GM unit.

Sounds like a good time, just need a sign that reads, “I’ll back your boat for $10” You could probably make a killing.

I’m amazed that’s a direct bolt up. I wonder who figured that out and how? You can have a million different engines and trans combos, and they all look the same at first glance until you actually look closely or try to test fit them. Will you be running the original rear diff, or do you have...

Doesn’t need to be anything fancy, the one that comes with the dye kits is just a cheapo unit, but it works alright. Can probably find a cheap one on Amazon

No disrespect to you, but those AC’s are very poorly installed. I wouldn’t be a bit surprised if there is leaks in the joints. Grab yourself a UV light if you have one, and check all the braze joints. The die is fluorescent, green or purple, depending which brand they used. If it is indeed...

You truly do want it to be level, the compressors have an oil charge, and being too far off kilter will not provide adequate lubrication. But you just about have to turn them completely sideways before they’ll die. Saw this one in Orem recently.

I still haven’t eaten at your place yet, but I’ll at least vote best beer!

Potentially low on charge, or compressor may not be running at all still. If you want I can come take a look and throw my gauges on it. Have a pic of the electrical in the AC panel?