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Since I can make payments on the medical bills, I need to keep my sanity in the meantime, so I’m going to keep wrenching until it either sells or gets finished. So I started the flatbed, from 2” tube I scored, $20 per stick! 1/8 wall I think yet I am going to throw the 3” springs I got under...

Funny how fast life changes! Listed the comanche project for sale today. TDI Comanche Project https://classifieds.ksl.com/listing/69641612

I passed on two for $600 in Moab recently, so they’re still out there sometimes. Regretting now that I didn’t jump on them sooner, because once I tried to, a firefighter in Moab picked them up from the field they were in.

Shiny things arrived today so I test fit it up. Fits really clean! I was going to try to drop it in the bay, but decided to wait til I can get an actual chain on the engine versus just a cheap 1” strap.

What’s the easiest way to setup the axle for my CV shaft? Just rotate the housing by eye and tack my perches? Or get a straight edge on it somehow? I’m reading 2° below output is ideal for the CV.

“Changing relationships in the differentials”

Well that’s done, and I will never do it again, if this blows, I’m getting an atlas. Had to order 4mm pins for the tone ring locator and cut one down. Feels like everything turns smooth so hopefully my alignment trick worked! Otherwise this was a quick $1200 down the drain….. No yokes yet, I...

Shasta shims work wonders. I am forever at the mercy of that output bearing though. Almost thinking I should see if somebody can turn me an aluminum spacer to pop in to help relieve any play that the bearing has. Otherwise I’m just hoping by keeping it vertical that it’s centered well enough.

Just discovered there is a collar on the output shaft that meets the oil pump. Difference is 10 thousandths. Wondering if I can find some 5 thou shims, slide the shaft in, shim it, and be at the mercy of the output bearing to keep me centered.

That’s precisely my thought too. The pump is bolt centric, no dowels or anything to keep it perfectly centered. Maybe I can figure out a way to check it with a dial indicator to get it as close to centered as possible.

Wish I woulda jumped on that atlas before I dumped $1200 into my 241 rebuild!

That was my bad, on the 241 transfercase. Kinda wishing I had waited, and bought the Atlas that’s for sale on here now.

I need some help with the NV241OR, everywhere I read to not open the oil pump on the , however, the case is shattered. My new case arrived sans pump, so I removed the bolts and swapped it over. I cleaned everything with brake clean and then sprayed with WD40. Am I hosed? I really didn’t have any...

Harness is almost done, pulled most of the wires out that I was pretty sure I didn’t need and labeled them. Once I can confirm it runs and doesn’t throw codes for anything, I’ll finish it off. The wiring really isn’t all that bad, there’s tons of resources for the ALH, not nearly as many for...

Adapter is ordered. Went with a Whitbread Performance plate, was about $200 cheaper than the next leading option.

Finally started pulling apart the 241OR. This thing is so chock full of dirt and grit it’s mind blowing! Found the tone ring rusted to heck, and struggled to remove it. Once I got it off I noticed the pin was sheared, and almost appears to be distorted. The ring has two slots, and my suspicion...

Pulled the beetle up the driveway and pulled the engine today. Managed to get the engine to ECM harness out clean, but I hacked it at the firewall….only need about 6 wires for my DBW and OBD2 going that way anyways so I’ll build it up to how I need it.

How much for the 231/300 doubler?

Twin sticks is kinda what I’m after

Anybody have a Dana 300 case for sale? I think I want to run a 231/300 doubler instead of a 241.