Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
Got in a little work this morning while everyone was sleeping. Gauges, ignition, and accessory switches are all wired up.
“Cheater” 3 seat buggy build/assembly
- Thread starter Asbjorn
- Start date
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I like that switch panel. I need to get something like that and overhaul my wiring.
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
It was a little expensive ~$100, but comes pre-wired with a bunch of extra wiring accessories. They also make a 6 switch panel if you have more accessories. In my case, I have lights and e-fans. Not planning to run anything more than that.
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
Cockpit coming together. Hoping to finish up the wiring this weekend and see if it runs.
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
This project burned to the ground and I sold what was left…thread closed.
Seriously though, it’s like 1 step forward, 2 back at this point.
Wiring and plumbing are done. Front brake lines are supposed to be here tomorrow and that will finish plumbing.
Driveshafts are done and installed.
Exhaust is done-ish enough for now.
I started filling fluids for the initial start-up and discovered that the trans pan is leaking more than I care to live with (see other thread on garage floor protection). Need to pull pan and reseal, then refill trans.
Started filling the radiator, got about 2/3 full and my heart sank as I saw a steady stream of coolant hitting the floor. It appears I nicked the radiator with a drill bit while doing some other work. I felt pretty sure that I didn’t cause any damage at the time, but sure enough, it leaks in that exact spot. Gonna need to pull the radiator which will be a total PITA because of how it’s mounted and everything that needs to come out beforehand. Got a start on that tonight and spilled 2 gallons of coolant which made a giant freaking mess. Came inside and will finish pulling it sometime this week. After that, hopefully a radiator shop can fix the radiator leak and I’ll get it reinstalled.
Otherwise, a short list of to-do’s:
Fill diffs with gear oil
Plumb front brakes
Bench bleed the dual master cylinders, then bleed the brake system
Wrap exhaust
Install interior panels, seats, harnesses, etc.
Install belly skid
Charge air shocks with nitrogen
Final bolt checks, touch up paint, etc.
Wrap body panels
Put for sale sign on it and find a new hobby 🤣
Seriously though, it’s like 1 step forward, 2 back at this point.
Wiring and plumbing are done. Front brake lines are supposed to be here tomorrow and that will finish plumbing.
Driveshafts are done and installed.
Exhaust is done-ish enough for now.
I started filling fluids for the initial start-up and discovered that the trans pan is leaking more than I care to live with (see other thread on garage floor protection). Need to pull pan and reseal, then refill trans.
Started filling the radiator, got about 2/3 full and my heart sank as I saw a steady stream of coolant hitting the floor. It appears I nicked the radiator with a drill bit while doing some other work. I felt pretty sure that I didn’t cause any damage at the time, but sure enough, it leaks in that exact spot. Gonna need to pull the radiator which will be a total PITA because of how it’s mounted and everything that needs to come out beforehand. Got a start on that tonight and spilled 2 gallons of coolant which made a giant freaking mess. Came inside and will finish pulling it sometime this week. After that, hopefully a radiator shop can fix the radiator leak and I’ll get it reinstalled.
Otherwise, a short list of to-do’s:
Fill diffs with gear oil
Plumb front brakes
Bench bleed the dual master cylinders, then bleed the brake system
Wrap exhaust
Install interior panels, seats, harnesses, etc.
Install belly skid
Charge air shocks with nitrogen
Final bolt checks, touch up paint, etc.
Wrap body panels
Put for sale sign on it and find a new hobby 🤣
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
Well, here’s the source of my radiator leak. When it happened, all I could see was the little spot on the tank. Apparently it just deflected off the tank and plowed into the tube. It’ll go into the radiator shop tomorrow for repair.
And crossed one item off of the to-do list, diffs are full of high quality gear lube 😆
And crossed one item off of the to-do list, diffs are full of high quality gear lube 😆
Last edited:
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
Pro tip: always RTV your diff cover BEFORE you tighten down the cover and fill with gear oil. 🤦🏻♂️
Today’s accomplishment - drain front diff, remove diff cover, clean, RTV!!!, reassemble.
Today’s accomplishment - drain front diff, remove diff cover, clean, RTV!!!, reassemble.
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
You may be on to something with that one
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
I’ve purchased two of them in the past. They both leaked. Pulled them and went back to Ultra Grey and no more leaks.
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
Little bit of progress
Dropped the trans pan, cleaned, and resealed with a fresh gasket. Refilled and thus far, leak free. No pictures, just a messy job that I wanted to be done with.
Radiator repaired, installed, and leak free
Front brake lines plumbed, just need a long hose to run up to the master. Should be here this week
After some back and forth, I decided to run the PSC valve which supposedly maintains a constant pressure and helps with cavitation.
I read a bunch of feedback with mixed reviews - some say it works/solved issues, others swear it’s a total scam and to just plug the reservoir cap. A couple of people reported that a plugged reservoir cap caused too much pressure to build and blow the can off the back of their P-pump (which I’m running). The most consistent feedback I saw was that it will vent and spew PS fluid inside the engine bay. A couple of people reported small fires from it. The idea of something designed to spew fluid and potentially cause fire didn’t sit well with me. So I came up with a simple idea to run the valve for its supposed benefits, and attempt to contain any spewed fluid. 1/16” scrap aluminum.
It’s nothing fancy, but only took about an hour to make. If I could weld aluminum, I think it’d be a lot nicer. If it works, version 2.0 will be nicer. I opted to just rivet this together for the time being, and layered the bottom with blue shop towels. If they soak up fluid, it’ll be easy to swap them between outings. I didn’t want to drill big holes in the front, but didn’t think it through well enough to realize I couldn’t tighten the u-bolt nuts any other way.
Dropped the trans pan, cleaned, and resealed with a fresh gasket. Refilled and thus far, leak free. No pictures, just a messy job that I wanted to be done with.
Radiator repaired, installed, and leak free
Front brake lines plumbed, just need a long hose to run up to the master. Should be here this week
After some back and forth, I decided to run the PSC valve which supposedly maintains a constant pressure and helps with cavitation.
I read a bunch of feedback with mixed reviews - some say it works/solved issues, others swear it’s a total scam and to just plug the reservoir cap. A couple of people reported that a plugged reservoir cap caused too much pressure to build and blow the can off the back of their P-pump (which I’m running). The most consistent feedback I saw was that it will vent and spew PS fluid inside the engine bay. A couple of people reported small fires from it. The idea of something designed to spew fluid and potentially cause fire didn’t sit well with me. So I came up with a simple idea to run the valve for its supposed benefits, and attempt to contain any spewed fluid. 1/16” scrap aluminum.
It’s nothing fancy, but only took about an hour to make. If I could weld aluminum, I think it’d be a lot nicer. If it works, version 2.0 will be nicer. I opted to just rivet this together for the time being, and layered the bottom with blue shop towels. If they soak up fluid, it’ll be easy to swap them between outings. I didn’t want to drill big holes in the front, but didn’t think it through well enough to realize I couldn’t tighten the u-bolt nuts any other way.
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
Well, it runs. More to come. 😎
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
With our move back to CO coming up this Wednesday, I needed the buggy to be able to go onto a trailer under its own power, will all of its pieces and parts attached. So I got it running.
I finally pulled the trigger and pieced together my own nitrogen filling equipment. I’ve probably paid enough over the years to have shocks filled that it just made sense to invest. Probably $225 total, but nice to have.
Put a quick charge in the shocks to get it on its own weight. Sitting right at 15” belly with 2-3” uptravel. I’ll probably bump it up a bit once we’re moved, as the belly will be too low as is. I also threw all of the panels, seats, skid, etc onto it for ease of moving. Kind of a sneak peek of what my finished product will be. I plan to vinyl wrap the body panels at some point.
I finally pulled the trigger and pieced together my own nitrogen filling equipment. I’ve probably paid enough over the years to have shocks filled that it just made sense to invest. Probably $225 total, but nice to have.
Put a quick charge in the shocks to get it on its own weight. Sitting right at 15” belly with 2-3” uptravel. I’ll probably bump it up a bit once we’re moved, as the belly will be too low as is. I also threw all of the panels, seats, skid, etc onto it for ease of moving. Kind of a sneak peek of what my finished product will be. I plan to vinyl wrap the body panels at some point.
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
The buggy successfully drove out of the garage and onto the trailer under its own power this evening.
The rush I’ve been in is showing:
Steering lines were crossed (e.g. turn wheel left, tires go right), and some of the fittings were loose, so upon bleeding, fluid spewed everywhere. It was an easy, but messy fix. I also ran out of Swepco, so I refilled with AC Delco PS fluid. I’m probably at 75% Swepco, 25% Delco fluid. I got mixed feedback on FB as to whether or not the blended fluid will give me issues. I’m inclined to just run it and see what happens.
Almost every brake fitting is leaking where I used premade hard lines from NAPA and brass tees. I think I’ll just rip out the hard line and run all braided AN stuff.
I am also having a hell of a time getting the dual Wilwood masters to bleed. I bench bled them, then hooked up the lines and did a “three person bleed” as instructed. Probably has to do with the leaking fittings sucking air.
The 2-speed fans are not coming in at the temps they are supposed to, or at all. Need to investigate that, probably a wiring error somewhere.
No pictures right now, we’ve been cleaning and packing up for our final trip back to CO tomorrow.
The rush I’ve been in is showing:
Steering lines were crossed (e.g. turn wheel left, tires go right), and some of the fittings were loose, so upon bleeding, fluid spewed everywhere. It was an easy, but messy fix. I also ran out of Swepco, so I refilled with AC Delco PS fluid. I’m probably at 75% Swepco, 25% Delco fluid. I got mixed feedback on FB as to whether or not the blended fluid will give me issues. I’m inclined to just run it and see what happens.
Almost every brake fitting is leaking where I used premade hard lines from NAPA and brass tees. I think I’ll just rip out the hard line and run all braided AN stuff.
I am also having a hell of a time getting the dual Wilwood masters to bleed. I bench bled them, then hooked up the lines and did a “three person bleed” as instructed. Probably has to do with the leaking fittings sucking air.
The 2-speed fans are not coming in at the temps they are supposed to, or at all. Need to investigate that, probably a wiring error somewhere.
No pictures right now, we’ve been cleaning and packing up for our final trip back to CO tomorrow.
Asbjorn
Active Member
- Location
- Montrose, CO
I went and grabbed a vacuum bleeder tool from HF, but I couldn’t get it to hold a vacuum at the bleeders. It’s just pulling air around the threads of the bleeders, and I’m sure in the other places where the hard lines are leaking. I’m going to start over fresh with all AN lines and fittings for the brakes and re-bleed from there.