Jeep 2nd Year Driving a Manual

[sjb1sjb]

Hay All
Last Summer was my first year on any trails.
Drove trails in Moab: Fins & Things, Poison Spider and Kane Creek

Have 2013 JK with 35's and 2.5 inch lift. Have questions on driving a manual.

1. running in low, starting from a stop, shifting from 1st to 2nd to 3rd.... treat it as business as usual? can i shift in to 4th, do i need to do anything different.
2. can i start in 2nd from a stop in low?
3. whats the biggest thing i should not do when climbing? descending?
4. is there a basic rule of thumb when driving manual on trails?
5. how will i know if i am killing my clutch

any other tips or advise would be greatly appreciated

thank you
SJB

 

[Spork]

My rules for driving a clutch, if you're moving the foot is off the clutch, none of this halfway in stuff. Figure out what the plan is before you're on the obstacle. A lot depends on how low you're geared, when I'm going down I usually put it in first and let the clutch slow me down, I usually still have a foot on the brake in case you lift a tire you don't have a sudden jolt when all the tires contact again. I do not shift in the middle of going up an obstacle, if I start on flat ground the clutch is all the way out by the time my tire contacts a rock, gas is enough to keep me moving and applied gently if I hear the engine struggle. My wife complains but i turn down the music so I can hear the engine.
I go as high as 5th gear when I'm in low range, usually about the time i hit that I ask what I'm thinking and pull over and stick it in high range.
You can start from second if you want, I typically still start in 1st even if it's just for a second or two.

If you can smell your clutch you're doing something wrong. Any time it is slipping and heating up you're shortening the life of the clutch. I read where some people say they have one foot with their toe on the brake and the heal on the gas and I wonder what their clutch is thinking. Learn where the clutch starts grabbing and holding the vehicle then foot off the brake onto the accelerator and the clutch is released.

 

[rustyjeep21]

I don't know if it's good or not but I've got 6 + years on my clutch and Its still going strong. I'll start in 3 rd or 4 th sometimes in the sand then I can downshift if I need more power towards the top of a dune. While descending I will leave it in whichever gear suits my speed. When I'm on a slower trail I'll just leave it in 2nd and give it gas as needed. On occasion I'll use clutch on an obstacle if needed but I do prefer to have it out all the way.

 

[TJDukit]

Thats some solid advice from Spork.

I've wheeled three different rigs with manuals. Each one was very different.

Gearing will dictate a lot on how you drive it. For the most part you want to find the gear you need for the obstacle and stick with it. That might mean starting in 2nd or even 3rd. It's really difficult to jam gears going slow and still maintain any momentum. If you can start in 2nd or 3rd without bogging down the engine or riding the clutch too long you are fine.

I've overheated my clutch before and it wasn't fun backing down a steep hill with just a brake pedal.

Learning to drive with 3 feet makes things quicker but is harder on your clutch. Get some practice knowing exactly where your friction zone is and use that to your advantage.

If you are not in a rubicon by the time you hit 4th gear you should probably be in 4hi. Sometimes it's just a short little bit and often times I was too lazy and even saw 6th gear in my Rubi. It didnt hurt anything but it's still better to be in the correct tcase gear.

Driving a manual through technical stuff can be tricky without deep gears but you'll get it.

I say get out on the dirt with no obstacles in 4lo and just get a good feel for your gearing and engine to find out what you are comfortable with.

 

[MikeGyver]

How to make a clutch last: Never(!) slip the clutch. Sync the engine rpm and the trans as quickly as possible. If you find yourself slipping the clutch half a second each gear change, you're doing it too much.
There are some times you have to, but 99% of the time you drive, don't.

 

[nnnnnate]

Explain what slipping the clutch is Mike.

 

[MikeGyver]

Explain what slipping the clutch is Mike.

Lightly engaging the clutch to transfer power (where there is a difference in rpm from flywheel to input shaft; the link is 'slipping').

You obviously need to slip it a bit to start, but really it doesn't need much, and literally no slipping at all if you shift at the right rpm. I've noticed lots of people ride the clutch like crazy; that thing should be on or off, the clutch is not another gear, the clutch is not a automatic transmission's torque converter. (this goes for onroad/easy offroad driving, which is the vast majority of what most vehicles see. For technical offroad stuff, sometimes you have to slip it a bit, like in my case when I drove mickey's hot tub in a YJ with a 2.5L:, 33"s and 3.55 gears lol)

 

[sawtooth4x4]

All I know is don't slip the clutch. I had an 85 extra cab I put a Toyota supra motor into. I smoked the stock 4 banger clutch after one trail ride. I had to upgrade to a marlin crawler heavy duty clutch. put it in the gear you want for the obstacle before you get on the obstacle.

I went to an automatic for 4 wheeling a long time ago. Its just so much easier. my wife doesn't get mad because her body is bouncing around in the vehicle and its less stressful. Its amazing how little gearing you need with an auto.