6x10 Utility Trailer Build

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
I like the ramp idea. I just wonder if the 1/4 inch stand off is enough room to allow the ram's angle to change for different ground heights without binding? Last thing you want is to unload your toy just to find your ramps wont rest on that particular ground.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
If you are mounting your spare under the front, may I suggest that you mount it between the rails on your tongue. If you mount it under the rails you will drag it, if you mount it up and between, it will keep the spare up and out of the way. I had my boat spare mounted that way because it would drag on the occasional exit or entry of some driveways. If you were to ever take this trailer off-road, you would want it up out of the way.

Thanks Russ, I got thinking about that and have convinced myself to look at even further back, closer to the axle. That way for sure it won't have any chance of dragging. I am not 100% sure yet as to the underside as I will do some location testing tonight. Worse case scenario is I will mount it on the passenger side of the tongue alongside the tongue box but it sure would clean it up by having it under the trailer.

It would be a reach to get at it but like on everything else, a spare is just an insurance policy so you don't have a flat.:D

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I like the ramp idea. I just wonder if the 1/4 inch stand off is enough room to allow the ram's angle to change for different ground heights without binding? Last thing you want is to unload your toy just to find your ramps wont rest on that particular ground.

Yes, I thought of that and the ramp has quite a large range of motion in which it will engage with the flat bar. The pictures make it look like it is quite tight but they will go almost flat out to lower than ground level such as if the trailer was high and the ramps were in a dip or low spot.

Thanks.

Mike.
 

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
That looks really great Mike, your pics make me pretty jealous when I think about my hack job trailer.

A few posts back you said you used seam sealer. Do I need to go to a specialty shop to find that? Can't say I've really looked hard for it but thought I might try to pick some up locally rather than ordering it online if its available.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
That looks really great Mike, your pics make me pretty jealous when I think about my hack job trailer.

A few posts back you said you used seam sealer. Do I need to go to a specialty shop to find that? Can't say I've really looked hard for it but thought I might try to pick some up locally rather than ordering it online if its available.

Thanks Nate. Your trailer is far from a hack job, it has turned out great. You should be proud of it.

I used 3M's Urethane seam sealer, the kind in a metal tube that goes into a standard 1/10th gallon caulking gun. I can't remember the part # but I can get it when I get home. I just picked it up from my local NAPA but I am sure about any autobody paint and supply store would have it as well.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
That looks really great Mike, your pics make me pretty jealous when I think about my hack job trailer.

A few posts back you said you used seam sealer. Do I need to go to a specialty shop to find that? Can't say I've really looked hard for it but thought I might try to pick some up locally rather than ordering it online if its available.

Nate, the 3M part number is 8367.
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It is paintable and stay flexible.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I rolled the trailer outside and ran a DA over the whole thing to prep it for paint.
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Next up is the nasty stuff, POR-15. I wear gloves and for this job I even layed down some plastic to protect my shop floor.
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Underside coated. I only covered the underside and the middle section that will have the wood decking covering the metal with the POR-15. The remainder of the trailer will be sprayed with an etching primer followed by a signle stage automotive urethane gloss black paint.
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I even brushed some POR-15 down inside the tail light boxes.
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Glad I had put down some plastic, otherwise this would be my shop floor.
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Lastly my new tongue box showed up last night.
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Tonight I am going to get the box mounted then fabricate my spare tire mount on the right side of the frame. I would have really liked to have mounted my spare tire under the trailer but it just hung too low.

Hopefully over the weekend, weather permitting, I can get the topside painted and the next pictures will be of it all one color.

Mike.
 

nnnnnate

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
WVC, UT
What did you use in the DA? A flap disk or wire wheel or something else? Still trying to figure out what needs to be done for paint. I'd guess you are going to shoot the paint rather than just use the POR15 because it'll lay on better?
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
What did you use in the DA? A flap disk or wire wheel or something else? Still trying to figure out what needs to be done for paint. I'd guess you are going to shoot the paint rather than just use the POR15 because it'll lay on better?

DA=Dual Action sander and I just ran over it with some 220-grit sanding disks on the perimeter tubing and fenders. The undercarriage I wiped down and ran over with a Scotchbrite pad, wiped with wax and grease remover and brushed the POR-15 onto the steel. Actually POR-15 seems to bond better to slightly rusted steel but it works great on new steel as well as long as it has a bit of "tooth" to bite into. The POR-15 looses its finish, chalks out, in UV so it is advised if using it where exposure to sunlight to topcoat it. I have only used it on the underside of the trailer as I am going to spray an etching primer on the rest of the trailer followed by a couple coats of single stage urethane gloss black automotive paint as the topcoat.

That is a beautiful piece of work. Is that lift in your garage or do you just have access to one?

That is my home shop.

DA's just take sandpaper discs

Correct.

Thanks guys.

Mike.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
Friday night I was able to get a couple of cross bars cut and welded in for the tongue box to sit on. The instructions that came with the box showed anchoring it down on the four inside corners but that left the bottom pretty well unsupported. I wanted to ensure the bottom didn't sag down.
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Welded in and the top smoothed off so the weld didn't dig into the bottom of the box.
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I have also been in turmoil of where to mount my spare tire. I really wanted to mount it under the trailer but it hung too low. I then thought about moving it further back towards the axle to lessen the chance of catching it on something but it would make accessing it too difficult if I ever needed it. My next plan was to place in on the right side of the tongue box with a bracket that come up from the frame so it looked like it was hanging on the tongue box but actually not touching it at all. That still ended up hanging a bit lower than I liked.

In the end I moved it to the right side just between the front right corner and front of the fender. This is where I placed the one on my 18' car hauler a few years back and it looked fine.
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Here are some pictures to give an overview of the trailer prior to paint.
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Masked, wiped down/prepped and ready for the etching primer and then paint. Also note our trees are in full bloom and look so pretty this time of year.:)
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Here is the Martin Senour 1K etching primer applied.
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And here are a few pictures after a couple coats of the Martin Senour PCC(Premium Commercial Coatings) single stage gloss black urethane paint.
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Tires/wheels bolted on and rolled back into the shop.
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I have to take a small detour from this project to get a couple of small projects completed and then I can return to complete the utility trailer. At least I can get it out of the shop for a few days without it rusting.

Next items will be wiring the trailer, cutting and attaching the ATP and then finally I can stain/treat the wood flooring and install it.

Mike.
 
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