a little help with my Toy front axle??????

pELYgroso

'Merica
Location
LEHI, UT
I've got 2 front axles. one is a housing that is built on the outside, the other is an axle (attached to a truck) that is built on the inside. I need to yank the nice stuff (longs, etc) from the inside of the one and put it into the other, and put stock shafts, etc back into the axle that we pulled the longs out of. I've never had an axle torn down before and would like a little help, mostly just to make sure that I'm doing it right. I'm not completely helpless when it comes to wrenching and can probably do it myself but would feel better if someone who knows toyota axles was there to help out. I'm located in lehi and I'll buy pizza and whatever drinks you fancy to come help me out.

Tuesday or Wednesday night would be great!!

Lemme know!

Thanks,

Ty
 

zukking01

Registered User
It really is simple.
Pull the locking hum and the snap ring off.
Pull the king studs on the upper and lower of the knuckle.
Pull the knuckle off the axle housing.
Pull the shaft out. ( it has a flattened top and bottom to come out the axle. Pull and turn slowly and it will come out.)
 

choptopbII

Well-Known Member
Location
Clearfield, UT
I would love to help but I'm in davis county,

There used to be a really good write up on Pirate on how to rebuild a toyota front axle but i just tried to pull it up and the link is bad. Go figure

for the most part there way simple, Just pull it apart and lay it out like a book on witch parts came off first, And put it back together in the same order it came apart, Thats how i learned toyota front axles.

Are you rebuilding it and replacing the seals too?
 

Cruiser

look what i can do!!
It really is simple.
Pull the locking hum and the snap ring off.
Pull the king studs on the upper and lower of the knuckle.
Pull the knuckle off the axle housing.
Pull the shaft out. ( it has a flattened top and bottom to come out the axle. Pull and turn slowly and it will come out.)

good except you need not pull the LOWER pin nuts off... just the scrubbers on back, seering arm and hub face and snap ring! lift the knuckle a little push the trunnion down and it will drop right off...

i'd love to help but I cant find time to fix my own SHiZ! :(
 

Bluecrush

The Great Scorpion
Not to make it more confusing but, you may have to grind the inside of the axle housing (inside the knuckle ball)to make room for the longfield axles in the other axle housing. Doesn't usually require much.
 

pELYgroso

'Merica
Location
LEHI, UT
see, I'm a bit confused by what's been said already....I already pulled out one of the longs (1st gen longs, aka treated birfs) and I didn't need to pull out any king studs or pull the knuckle off the housing. I just started taking it apart until I could pull the birf straight out of the knuckle/housing. Once I got there, I lined up the flat spot of the birf with the skinny part in the knuckle and it wiggled out. Did I do it wrong?? Do I need to pull off the steering arm and pullout the bearings above and below the knuckle?? Should I change those bearings?? Also, which seals need to be replaced?? This is why I'd love somebody who's done it before to come give me a hand. Just so that I'm sure. It's tough when I pulled it out one way, and I just got 2 or 3 different directions on how to pull it apart different ways. Nobody's free for a night this week? :eek:) If I could make it worth your while withsome parts at my cost (alljeep.com's cost) would that help??
 

1\4elliptic toy

shenanigans!
Location
The Dark Side
I'm in STG or I would help, I can tell you that I can do what your asking with a blindfold on :D Its not hard. follow these steps:
on jackstands
pull tires
remove the hub cap (10mm socket)
pull the snap ring
remove all the wiper bolts on the back of the knuckle (8 bolts 10 mm socket)
pull the 4 nuts on top of the steering (hysteer if you have it) arm remove the nuts, cone washers and washers
remove arm (might take some swearing and a hammer might not)
entire steering knuckle will "slide" off at this point you will need a milk crate or something to set the knucle on so the brake line is not streched.
turn the long until it pulls out
put back together in reverse...
 

pELYgroso

'Merica
Location
LEHI, UT
I'm in STG or I would help, I can tell you that I can do what your asking with a blindfold on :D Its not hard. follow these steps:
on jackstands
pull tires
remove the hub cap (10mm socket)
pull the snap ring
remove all the wiper bolts on the back of the knuckle (8 bolts 10 mm socket)
pull the 4 nuts on top of the steering (hysteer if you have it) arm remove the nuts, cone washers and washers
remove arm (might take some swearing and a hammer might not)
entire steering knuckle will "slide" off at this point you will need a milk crate or something to set the knucle on so the brake line is not streched.
turn the long until it pulls out
put back together in reverse...

so, I shouldn't have to remove the brakes, rotor, and all that jargon?? Just as far as the snap ring, then the knuckle should come off?? That sounds a lot easier! The way you're explaining, do I need to remove the 54mm nuts that I did??

Thanks!

Ty

another question, I need the birfs pulled out to be able to yank the 3rd, right?
 

1\4elliptic toy

shenanigans!
Location
The Dark Side
so, I shouldn't have to remove the brakes, rotor, and all that jargon?? Just as far as the snap ring, then the knuckle should come off?? That sounds a lot easier! The way you're explaining, do I need to remove the 54mm nuts that I did??

Thanks!

Ty

another question, I need the birfs pulled out to be able to yank the 3rd, right?


No, you do not need to pull any of that stuff, just what I outlined, the shafts need to come out of the 3rd for it to be pulled out.
 

1\4elliptic toy

shenanigans!
Location
The Dark Side
Also, which seals need to be replaced???

The most common one to replace is the axle seal, Once you pull the shafts out look inside the axle housing from the knuckle side, about 6 inchs inside you will see the seal. Kurt from Cruiser Outfitters has the Marlin Crawler HD seals instock 99% of the time, they are hands down the only seal to put in a locked toy axle.
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
The most common one to replace is the axle seal, Once you pull the shafts out look inside the axle housing from the knuckle side, about 6 inchs inside you will see the seal. Kurt from Cruiser Outfitters has the Marlin Crawler HD seals instock 99% of the time, they are hands down the only seal to put in a locked toy axle.

I have every front axle seal, gasket and bearing in stock, Koyo and Timken as well as the HD seals... 99% of the time :D Right now I have over a hundred of the kits here :cool:
 

zukking01

Registered User
If you cone down to my place in kearns we can do it in the driveway. Not as favorable as someone coming to your house but I know I have all the crap to get it done.
 

pELYgroso

'Merica
Location
LEHI, UT
I totally would but the donor axle is on a truck and I have one side of it pulled apart already and a bunch of crap in front of it in the shop.....or in other words, probably the same amount of work to get it out of the shop as it is to do the stuff needed. Thanks for the offer though!! although, maybe......I'll yank out the longs then bring the axle I'm building over with all the parts and we can just do that....are you available tomorrow evening??

thanks!
 

zukking01

Registered User
I totally would but the donor axle is on a truck and I have one side of it pulled apart already and a bunch of crap in front of it in the shop.....or in other words, probably the same amount of work to get it out of the shop as it is to do the stuff needed. Thanks for the offer though!! although, maybe......I'll yank out the longs then bring the axle I'm building over with all the parts and we can just do that....are you available tomorrow evening??

thanks!

I should be unless work pulls a fast one like they did tonight.(tuesday) Give me a call.

eight oh one
440-4
nine one eight. Scott
 
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