Advice on F*rd early (OBS) Powerstrokes

[mbryson]

I just picked up a well used but (hopefully) fairly sound version of a '96 F250. It's intended to replace a K5 that I was working on for my 16 year old. Not your normal Accord or Camry for a 16 year old but to good of a deal to pass up. Long bed, ext. cab F250 with swapped in F350 axles/springs with 4.10 gears. Truck is running 315/70 17 tires and seems like it'll pull quite well. I've had a 7.3L before but in a slightly newer, definitely more refined package. I don't mind this truck at all. It's an honest truck and doesn't pretend to be something it's not.

This project could turn south at any moment in time (16 year old driver), so there will not be LOTS of $ invested, but it will be made reliable enough to tow stuff 4-6 hours away and bring stuff home. Truck is "OK" looking, but is solid in the powertrain dept. (well, it does have an auto trans--that'll cost me more to rebuild than I paid for the truck) and beat up enough it'll never be "nice" again. If something happens to it, no biggie. Injectors, turbo and cylinder pressure are known quantities, so I think the motor will be OK for the fewish miles per year I expect out of this thing. Auto trans feels fine, but I don't know that I want to just "trust" it. I want to "trust" it if I want to use the truck.

Question #1- Will I need a CPS like in the later 7.3L trucks? Do they have a similar history of expiring without warning? Any other sensor type issues to be aware of with this beast?

Question #2- Any cool web or local resources for getting used parts for this vintage of a rig? I could use some seats (drivers seat and rear ext. cab seat have paint on them and could use replacing---they are serviceable, but not what you'd like them to be). I'll enlist my friend KSL.com/classifieds to find whatever I can scrounge up there but wonder if there's a more specific site?

Question #3- Any differences in F250/F350 frames? Probably doesn't matter, but just curious.

Question #4- anything else I should be concerned about?

The things a total tank, but that's part of the charm. Conveniently Corbin goes to school early and stays late so he can get an accessible parking spot and be able to get out if needed. The truck drives pretty big (odd, because it is) but he'll get used to it after he runs over a few hoods/fenders/curbs/signs from turning to quickly.

 

[I Lean]

I think an intercooler is a pretty cool addition if you're going to tow with it. (this is a non-intercooled one, right?)

Other Bryson had a similar vintage truck, and it got a PSD intercooler that turned out pretty clean. Definitely not an easy bolt-in swap or anything, but doable....and a worthwhile upgrade.

 

[flexyfool]

I lived with a sporadically malfunctioning CPS sensor for years. It liked to shut-off the engine when a blinker was on making a turn in an intersection. Not a big deal for an experienced driver, but probably not what you want a 16 year old to have to handle. No engine means no power steering or power brakes until you take it out of drive, put in neutral, and restart. All while coasting through the intersection.

 

[mbryson]

I think an intercooler is a pretty cool addition if you're going to tow with it. (this is a non-intercooled one, right?)

Other Bryson had a similar vintage truck, and it got a PSD intercooler that turned out pretty clean. Definitely not an easy bolt-in swap or anything, but doable....and a worthwhile upgrade.

Good point. It's intercooled already. Thing runs pretty impressively.

My favorite part about the truck is the "matching" drivers door. You've got the uberkewl chrome trucker stuff on the fender and bedside but a stripe on the drivers door I'll try to buff this off, but it really doesn't bug me much if it is cleared over.

 

[Toad]

Intercooler is really not needed on a stock OBS ford. The 90cc injectors that truck came stock will not deliver enough fuel to get EGTs anywhere near needing to back out of the throttle. They come with a large 1.15 turbo housing that is very laggy trying to get boost. Alot of guys will install the smaller 1.0 housing to help fix that and that can create a little heat. That being said it just means it is one less thing to do in preparation for more air and fuel

If it still has stock exhaust look into replacing that. Diamond Eye makes a kit that comes with the down pipe for 350.00 bucks or so. If it still has the stock or k&n air filter look into a diy 6637 intake lots of info on the web.

If you want to chip it look into one of the custom 7.3 tuners. I currently have power hungry performance on mine and it makes a huge difference in the way the truck drives. PHP, Tony Wildman, DP tuner. Stay away from the generic one size fits all chips on the market.

Yes these trucks have the same CPS issues that the super duty has. I have been thinking about changing mine but have never had any issues. I hooked my otc to it last week and had a code for intermittent cps signal. I had no idea that it was having problems.

The 7.3 obs market has exploded in the past few years. There is more aftermarket support now that ever. They are a low budget hod rod truck.

 

[Toad]

Just so you know the front seat in a ext cab is different than a regular cab or four door truck

 

[SLC97SR5]

Lucky kid, that is a sweet first Truck.

Any history on the transmission? To keep it happy all it takes is regular common sense. Keep it cool, meaning tap into the factory port on the right side of the case and monitor the temps with a gauge and make sure it has a big cooler on it. I would be suprised if this hasn't been addressed, especially with an intercooler already installed.

Sunnex makes an easy to install, inexpensive kit to increase line pressure and firm up shifts. Ford offers an inline Magnefine filter as well.

Also, I look forward to the special experience you and your son will share together at the Davis emission center. Depending on other upgrades this may be a good reason to buy a custom tune with an "emission" setting to help blow clean and limit fuel.

Nice old Ford, keep the updates coming.

Also, LMC sells a bunch of interior and exterior trim for the obs series. Bilstein yellow can shocks can be found inexpensively and I have a line on a set of factory Alcoa rims if you are looking for those. I'm rambling now but keep the oil fresh and Napa sells a sythethic glass media extra fine filtration oil filter.

Now is a great time to ensure the under valve cover harnesses are good to go as well as glow plugs and the block heater cord is in good shape BEFORE winter.

 

[SLC97SR5]

And...I have a supply of coolant test strips to monitor your SCA's. I would be happy to hook you up if you would like.

 

[Hickey]

I've read that a tranny cooler from a 6.0 psd is a great swap.

 

[Toad]

Not hijack a thread but how are diesel emissions done. We are so lucky to have them starting the first of the year in Cache so just wondering what I should expect

 

[Toad]

I've read that a tranny cooler from a 6.0 psd is a great swap.

yes it is and I have one if your interested

 

[mbryson]

What mirrors do people run on these? The stock ones are kinda puny.

Not hijack a thread but how are diesel emissions done. We are so lucky to have them starting the first of the year in Cache so just wondering what I should expect

It's annoying in Davis county but Alex is logical and will help you out with what needs to be done. I have to drive to Kaysville to get tested. It's like I live in Clarkston and have to drive to Logan when I work in Tremonton. Annoying. Half day off to get stuff done.

 

[kellerexpress]

Just spray the whole thing with plasti-dip and call it a day

 

[Toad]

Mirror options suck. I have the same ones you do and use some slip on mirror extensions when pulling the rv. I have seen some guys using dodge mirrors. Personally I think they are fugly.

 

[AddictedOffroad]

I've owned three of these trucks. Still own my 94 F350 powerstroke dually. Love the truck.

1. Yes, carry a spare FORD CPS. Not the parts store replacements. Get a legit one from Ford.

2. Dieselorings.com is a good place to get a lot of the harder to find gaskets, seals, etc. Especially for the fuel bowl.

3. frames are relatively the same

Things to watch out for:
1. Get rid of the stock downpipe if its still there.
2. The DIY 6637 Wix air filters and a intake tube will help a lot
3. Watch out for the oil cooler leaking when things get cold. They are rebuildable (dieselorings.com). They like to puke when really cold out. I run full synthetic and two bottle of Marvel Mystery oil in the winter to help thin the oil. Once rebuilt it will be fine for 100K.
4. Fuel leaks in the valley are really common.
5. up-pipe gaskets are something to definitely watch. I built my own bellowed up-pipes on mine, but if they leak, they will lead to much higher EGTs.
6. Get a good glow plug relay
7. Only run Motorcraft(Beru) glow plugs. Do NOT use Autolite or Bosch glow plugs. They mushroom and break over time and get stuck in the head.
8. If injectors need to be done, Rosewood diesel is the cheapest place to get them rebuilt.
9. I also run Power Service additives year round. White bottle in the winter and gray bottle in the summer. I think it helps it idle better and run smoother.

FWIW, I have owned two 5spd OBS 7.3L and one A/T. I love the 5spd for towing and love the auto for DD. My current 94 dually(5spd) pushes out around 400hp and 900ft/lbs reliably at this point. Its a total sleeper, but will flat out haul ass when I want it to. I can hit 36psi of boost in it and there is more there. Its just that by the time I build to 36psi, I am redlining and need to shift.

 

[Rot Box]

I agree with everything above. The smaller exhaust housing and downpipe are well worth the effort and again use Motorcraft/Beru's ONLY. I would change the GP's soon if you don't know what brand the plugs are and/or if you don't know when they were changed last. The oil cooler is something you might want to rebuild sooner than later. Every one of those I've rebuilt was long overdue and the last thing you want is oil in the coolant.

Walmart carries the Motorcraft oil filters for a good price (FL1995).

X2 on making sure the block heater works and the cord is in good shape before its -50º outside


Cool truck Looking forward to updates

 

[1adam12]

Synthetic oils are really bad for the injectors (from a ford mechanic) 97 and older deisels no longer need emmision testing. run a fuel additive at all times. Low sulfer fuel lacks lubrication and will dry things out. Stanadyne additives seem to be the best. It will pull anything you want in stock form. With mods come reliabilty issues.

 

[Toad]

I used to run schaffers full synthetic in mine and every now and then I would get a very radical lope at start up. Changed to valvoline and runs like a different truck

 

[mbryson]

Well, spent a bit of time with this beast today. Working on safety inspection items and tutoring a 16 yr old while fixing. Fresh front brake pads, added a few hangers to the exhaust (that things a mess), tried to fix the leaking fuel tank (rear most---apparently quite common on these birds) and tried to spray all the spilled paint out of the truck bed (no workie---that's going to be an interesting thing to "fix"). Added some used H2 tires we scrounged up. They're not awesome but will get us through for a while.

Anyone have any experience with fuel tanks from Spectre? I'm normally not a fan, but if they work,I'll give it a shot.


Oh, I run about 2300 rpm at 70. (Not GPS'd). I'd assume that's due to the 4.10 gears. Both of my other deezels got better mileage at 2000 rpm or lower. I assume this would hold true with this truck?

 

[Toad]

What were your other diesel trucks? The 7.3 likes to rev a bit higher than a cummins does. I have tried driving mine under 2000 rpm. Puts speed at about 60 mph. I did not notice a difference doing that. Just pissed me off because I was driving so slow.