anti wrap bar

[big cherokee]

ok got my truck back on the road

new problems occurs. with the new power of the 4.3l v6 i now have to battle axle wrap.


what do you guys think i know the two desighns are the slip and twist using
round tube that slip inside eachother
or the fixed shackle type.

im running very soft leafs in the back homebrew set up to ford ranger main
with a full set of old man emu springs for a cherokee cut down.

im going to rework the leafs new main leaf with a second ranger main cut down and stacked in as the second leaf then the old man emu springs.

by the way the 4.3l with 5.29 gears and 39s i can power brake this thing and smoke the tires.

i love it

let me know on your opinions on which desighn that worked for you


thanks
ryan

 

[193kyle]

I would go with the shackle style, I've heard of too many people denting the tubes on the slip and twist and then they are useless.

 

[big cherokee]

have not heard of the denting problem but that would make sense.


so what joints would be the best us use on the anti wrap bar at both the
axel side and shackle side

i was thinking bushings at the axle and a heim or like joint up on the shackle.

 

[193kyle]

Yup, bushings on the axle side and heim or flex joint on the frame side.

 

[Maverick]

Heims at the axle and bushings at the shackle is *stronger* (at the frame end anyway).

The problem with the heim (rod end) at the frame end is that it usually puts the rod end in bending (weaker) rather than axial loading (what a rod end is meant for).

When I did mine, I actually made the "shackle" out of two rod ends, a male and female, threaded together. That way, the rod ends would be doing what they were meant to do. It's worked great for several years. I replaced the rod ends when we did the makeover, as the teflon had worn a little.

In hindsight, I'd either do it exactly like it did last time, or bushing at the shackle (with an actual shackle), and either bushings or spherical ends at the axle...

...And I'd definitely mount it higher on the axle than I did...but still use as much weld as I did. I recall calculating how many inches of 1/4" weld I needed. There is a serious amount of shear in the weld on the tube and you don't want to scrimp.

 

[I Lean]

I like bushings at the axle end, mostly because spherical rod ends at those two points don't really do anything (you don't need the flex), and bushings are cheaper.

I've used heims at the shackle end, in bending, with no adverse effects--but on my current 4runner I did it just a bit different so the load is axial.

Poor pics:

 

[Meat_]

My Ramcharger needs one of these.... at least on the rear.... stupid lift blocks

 

[Maverick]

LOVE that ladder bar, it's just plain sexy!

 

[big cherokee]

im liking the set up on the 4 runner as i like how it mounts to the axle.

two diffrent points instead of one bracket. plus up high

got any more shots of the shackle side and what are the material you used for the bar assembly

 

[NOTATOY]

I did bushings on the axle and summit machine flex joints with the shackle on my runner. There is no point in doing two flex joints on the axle because they won't flex on the axle side anyway. If your going to order parts I have a couple sets of new Ballistic anti wrap brackets I'll sell.

 

[jsudar]

How did you determine the length of the of traction bar?

A leaf sprung axle moves through an arc as it travels, but it's not that easy to calculate the arc radius since the spring is changing length throughout the travel.

Has anyone tried to figure out how to calculate the "optimum" length and angle for a traction bar? I think it might be important since it will have an effect on anti-squat and weight transfer.

Or do you just build it to make sure it fits in chassis?

 

[I Lean]

Or do you just build it to make sure it fits in chassis?

That's the main thing.

In general, the longer the traction bar is, the better it'll work. (the less noticeable it will be, while still controlling axle wrap) The difference in length between the leaf spring and the traction bar doesn't matter, since the shackle at the front of the Tbar makes sure it won't fight the spring to locate the axle.

The one I posted pics of above, uses factory JK lower control arm bushings at the axle side, most of the ladder is 1.5" .120 tube (smaller in the "rungs" of the ladder), and the shackle uses a bushing at the top. (from a front upper JK control arm) I just welded a nut to the chunk of tube on the bushing, to make the bottom end of the shackle.

If I think about it, I'll try to get any better pics of that in the next day or so....

 

[Gravy]

I have a few shots of mine in my build thread, but it's just like ILeans and works well

 

[big cherokee]

thanks for all the input guys.


im looking at doing this soon for ejs as im sure i will have a ton of traction on the slick rock


carl more pics would be great just trying to get a idea before i order tube

as for the balistic bracket im liking carls set up of two diffrent mounts on the axle i could make them out of some channel or square tube with a side cut out.

im on the cheap as work is a little slow right now and the wife is under the impression my truck is done