Any Mtn Bikers on RME?

Skylinerider

Wandering the desert
Location
Ephraim
Pedals/cleats are a personal preference, but I don't know anyone who has gone clipless for a while and then went back. There are just too many advantages in stability and efficiency. I do like flat pedals for just messing around, though, so I go for the wellgo flats that have cleats on one side. Takes some getting used to, but for me, they have the best of both worlds.

I did. I ran SPD's for a couple seasons, then went back to platforms. I just didn't like feeling stuck to the bike like that. The only time I couldn't get out was when I fell over in my garage, but they just didn't seem to do much for my style of riding. If I had been xc racing still, I might have liked them more for that.
 

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Takes some getting used to, but for me, they have the best of both worlds.

Do you mean the platforms with the clips on just one side specifically take some getting used to? Like how? I think that's exactly the setup I was considering to get me started.

If they take too much getting used to, I'll wait until after the White Rim trip.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
In my opinion, those half and half pedals end up being the worst of two worlds rather than the best of two worlds for a learner. It sounds like Eric has a lot more time on them than I do, so his advice is worth more than mine. I'd recommend learning on regular clipless (double-sided clipless) first. Then if you want a 50/50 design, switch over once you are used to regular clipless. The main thing I don't like is how crappy the non-clipless side is as a regular pedal. Maybe if it were a platform/pin design on the other half they'd have something going on.

When learning to clip in, one of the toughest part is gaining the muscle memory of where the cleat is on your shoe and where your foot needs to be positioned to clip in. If you add having to flip a pedal over and looking to make sure it's right-side-up all the time, it just adds to the frustration, and takes away your focus (and eyes) from the trail, where it should be.

I'd hold off 'till after white rim to go clipless. It's bound to be a lot of frustration and sore wrists as you fall over the first 20 times. If you can go to a grassy park and spend an hour or two riding around in clips (much softer to fall in grass), then you'd be ready for white rim. It takes a little re-training for your brain to automatically twist out when you come to a stop, when you get in trouble, etc. If you do ever go clipless, give them a good 50-100 miles before you make any judgment about them. You may love them, or you may hate them. For some reason, I think you'll prefer platform pedals with no clips, but I could be wrong.
 
Last edited:
Do you mean the platforms with the clips on just one side specifically take some getting used to? Like how? I think that's exactly the setup I was considering to get me started.

If they take too much getting used to, I'll wait until after the White Rim trip.

The getting used to is you can only clip into one side, so it isn't quite as automatic to clip back in. I've been using them for about 10 years, so I just step and spin the pedal if it doesn't clip. Sometimes I'll just glance down and know what needs to happen.
 
The main thing I don't like is how crappy the non-clipless side is as a regular pedal. Maybe if it were a platform/pin design on the other half they'd have something going on.

Guess I haven't used the crappy ones :(
Mine are at least as good as any platform pedal on the non-clipless side. They are very similar to these if not this very pedal. I will say the non-clipless side of good platform pedals like these are not very forgiving if you ever do slip off!

I did ride regular clipless for a few years before going this way. I can see how having to spin them might frustrate some. I switch back and forth between regular clipless and these when I ride my boys bikes, but I always come back to these.
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
I ride both and switch depending on what trails I am riding. The resorts I run flats, Corner Canyon, AF Canyon and Lambert I run clips.
Last time I rode The Whole Enchilada with Steve last year, I ran flats and liked that way better on that trail due to the exposure on the bottom of the trail. It just made me way more confident. Steve ran clips and didn't seem to worry about the giant cliff 2 feet away:D

One thing that makes a big difference to me is that I rode toe clips for years when I was younger. The kind with the straps and cages around the front of your foot. I had muscle memory to pull my foot backwards out of a cage so it took me a long time to overcome that with clip in pedals. My kids however adapted almost instantly. My oldest boy got some clip pedals on his BMX bike and ran them in a race his first time riding them. He never fell over. The twisting motion to get clips to release is a pretty natural movement to get your foot off a pedal if you haven't trained your brain to pull back like I did.

I also run clips with a little bit larger cage to support your foot like these.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-DEORE...89233&sr=8-3&keywords=shimano+clipless+pedals
 

glockman

I hate Jeep trucks
Location
Pleasant Grove
I don't think I would try this in clips! Flats and I'm totally in:)
p5pb11943168.jpg
 

juhcohbee

Active Member
Location
Sandy
hey guys, big guy here looking to loose some weight this summer, ive decided on buying a bike, i got about 2k budget, heres some background info on me, im 6'3" about 260 on a good day, im looking for something able to go downhill, just jumps, cool stuff like that, anyone have suggestions on brand and whatnot? or if anyone can point me in the direction of a cool bike. thanks!
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Cool. Mountain biking is a fun way to stay in shape.

There are lots of great brands out there. It's kind of like a ford/chevy/dodge/toyota debate. Everyone has their favorites, only bike aficionados aren't as brand-loyal as truck owners, since the only part that belongs to a brand is the frame. Everything else can be replaced and is built by another company. So even if I buy a giant, it's not going to have giant forks, pedals, cranks, shifters, etc. So the only thing different between bike companies is the frame and price point. That being said, it's important to buy a frame you love. Personally, I stay away from bikes from the following companies: fezarri, raleigh, fuji and I can recommend most bikes from: trek, specialized, santa cruz, rocky mountain, giant, gt, yeti

Here are my recommendations:

- Buy used. A bike that sold for $5k 2 years ago is now going for $2k used, and it's far better than any brand new $2k bike you'll find.I'd recommend a bike from 2012 or newer.
- you'll want a size L or XL, depending on the bike. Probably leaning towards an XL
- wheel size doesn't matter as much as people think it does. You might like 29" wheels, or you might like 26" wheels. you'll still pay a premium for 27.5" wheels right now. 26 and 29" wheels aren't cool anymore, so you can get them pretty cheap.

I think 29" wheels tend to be great for tall guys unless you're jumping and riding big hairy stuff. 29" wheels aren't as strong as 26" wheels, so it's going to be harder to find a 29er that can handle rowdy riding.


Here are the terms the bike industry likes to throw around, ranging from lightest/longest distance rides to more aggressive, downhill stuff.

cross country - trail - all mountain - enduro - downhill/freeride

You're looking for an all-mountain or possible enduro bike. These terms are loose terms, and everyone uses them differently. Here are some generalizations to help you understand the typical attitudes around these genres. These are gross overgeneralizations, but it'll give you an idea.

cross country - lycra-wearing bikers who live for the climb even more than the descent. 40 mile off-road rides are not uncommon. Lightweight is most important here, and you'll give up some comfort and playfullness for an all-out race bike. This is the type of mountain biking most road bikers like.
trail - a little less serious than cross country. Bikes are a little more playful, but still focus on lightweight and ability to climb
all mountain - the swiss army knife. This is where most bikes land. Not super light, not super heavy. Decent at climbing, decent at descending
enduro - this genre is based off a race series where riders are timed on the downhill sections of trails. But they still have to climb to get to the top (though not under the clock). Typically these bikes are meant for descending, jumping, and rowdy stuff, but are designed to be decent enough to climb uphill when needed (though they aren't generally the best climbers)
downhill/freeride - think RedBull Rampage. Chucking off cliffs. Zero ability to pedal uphill. These are more like motorcycles without motors. If you see triple-clamp forks on a bike, it almost always fits into this category.
 
Last edited:

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Juhcobee, I'm 6'4 and also heavy. You'll almost certainly want an XL/21 inch (or larger) frame. I've ridden 26" and 29" wheels, and 29s are absolutely my favorite for the riding I do (somewhere between cross country and trail, by Steve's definitions). 29 inch wheels will climb better due to the longer wheelbase and roll over stuff better due to the larger diameter. A bike with 26 inch wheels will maneuver better, due to the shorter wheelbase, and be easier to throw around, due to the lighter weight. 27.5/550b wheels are all the rage right now, I test rode one and it felt like the worst of both worlds to me. Others think they're the best of both worlds. You should ride a bunch of bikes and see what you like, and don't get too hung up on which you choose, because guys were riding nothing but 26" wheels for decades and didn't know what they were missing, they still had fun.

Once you get a bike, let me know any time you wanna ride. I'm slow and fat and need some other slow and fat guys to ride with.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
wheelbase shouldn't be different between a 29er and 26" wheeled bike. It's the diameter of the wheel that makes things easier to roll over on a 29er. Some people like the smoothest ride possible on dirt, and some people like to jump off every little bump they find and shred corners. It depends on what your riding style is.

26" bikes are easier to throw around because the COG is lower, they carve through corners easier because the wheel turns faster,the pivlo point where the rear axle is makes it easier to manual and jump, and if you're looking for a playful ride to jump and hop off every little bump, you'll get more "pop" off every bump with a 26" wheel, where the 29er tries to "roll over it with as little feel as possible." a 29er will hold its momentum better. So once you get going you stay going quick at that pace.

I obviously prefer 26" for my style of riding, but 29ers are great for what they are. Typically, they come on frames with a less aggressive geometry, and are meant for a more upright riding position for long distances (with exceptions of course). 29" wheels are significantly weaker than 26" wheels too. If you're 260 lbs and looking to get into jumping, you'll trash a set of 29" wheels fast. My buddy is 260 lbs and he trashed a set of 27.5" wheels in 4 months with zero jumping or aggressive riding.

The 2 29ers I'd like to try would be the kona honzo (hardtail) and a specialized evo 29
 
Last edited:

juhcohbee

Active Member
Location
Sandy
thanks for all the info guys! very helpful, ive been riding dirt bikes and rode bmx when i was alittle younger, so i know once i get goin downhill ill try and be one of the dudes that tries and jumps off every little bump.. theres so many different choices out there! haha yeah kevin ill be sure to hit u up once i get something going and we can go ride!

can u rent bikes from stores and stuff to try them out? or do u just ride them around at the store?
 
Top