ball joints???

chadschoon

Well-Known Member
Location
lehi
I have to replace my ball joints on my powerstroke before my trip to vegas this weekend. any hints, tips, or tricks on doing this? never replaced ball joints before :D
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Use the press kit. It's pretty cheap and does it right. The super duty knuckles are pretty big so it takes a little figuring to find out what adapters work, but then it goes well. Buy new 4x4 hub o rings before you start, they rip or wear out when getting removed and its cheap 4x4 insurance.
 
Did you finally look at them or just take my expert opinion on the death wobble? :p

I have no idea how different our trucks are, but here is what Chris did when he replaced mine. There was a seal kit that we had to order from Ford, the rest of the parts came from Carquest, and then he took the seal down to the mechanics to have them press it in because it's such a booger to do. Well, and we don't have a press. But come to find out, those seals are notorious for tearing so the mechanics always order 2 to be on the safe side. :eek: Sure enough, they did ruin mine, but had a spare. It wasn't that huge of a chore once all the parts were here and Chris got the axle shaft pulled.

May the force be with you. :)
 

jsudar

Well-Known Member
Location
Cedar Hills
Are you sure they really need replacing? I know stuporduty ball joints have a habit of going out (I've done well over a hundred,) but the spec is something like .040" of radial play. That feels like a ton of movement at the edge of the tire, especially if you have 35's on it.

If you do replace them, make sure to use the ball joint press. It makes life so much easier. When you reassemble it, torque the lower ball joint to around 50 ft lbs, then tighten the upper nut to 70 ft lbs. Then reef the lower ball joint nut to 150 ft lbs or so, but only tighten the upper nut to first spot where you can get the cotter pin through the castellated nut. If you tighten the upper any more than that, you will bind the ball joints and they will wear out even faster, plus you will have serious wandering problems at speed, since the wheels won't return to center as easily.
 

MR.CJ-7

Your Realtor
Location
Woods Cross, UT
I did mine when I used to own a PSD. Ditto on the BFH! Also with the auto hubs you'll need the "yellow" gasket. If I remember correctly I re-used the axle shaft seals, despite dealership's warning and the world didn't come to an end. I had help and an equipped shop otherwise I would have let someone else wrench it. It was similar to other ball joint jobs I've done, just bigger and more stubborn. Check out www.thedieselstop.com there are volumes of info written. I would recommend getting the best joints you can. The job sucks enough once, you don't want to do it again in six months even if the part has a lifetime warranty!
 

chadschoon

Well-Known Member
Location
lehi
Thanks for the info guys. They are getting pretty bad and would hate to chance it on a long road trip. I'm not going to have the time to get it done myself before Thursday so it's down at gaylons driveline getting some new parts.
 

jsudar

Well-Known Member
Location
Cedar Hills
So that was your superduty....

I was just at Gaylon's picking up my drive shaft. They do good work. That stupid small world song is stuck in my head now. Thanks. :rolleyes:
 

Meat_

Banned
Location
Lehi
Thanks for the info guys. They are getting pretty bad and would hate to chance it on a long road trip. I'm not going to have the time to get it done myself before Thursday so it's down at gaylons driveline getting some new parts.

:rofl: I saw this morning that you picked the easy way to change ball joints


He said that with 37's you can count on changing those yearly.
 
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