Beginner metal fab.

Omgbecki

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
Hey guys I'm looking into learning how to fab my own stuff like sliders and skids. Any body in here give me some pointers like where to get the metal and a good welder that won't break the bank? Any advice is appreciated. I'm on a single fathers budget with two vehicles I'm still paying on. So I can't afford big dollar welders or cutters. Gotta start somewhere right? :)
 

B2-Bomber

Guest
Location
SL, UT
the way wheeling works is that it is 90% driving skill, and 10% equipment, fabbing is the same way, a good fabricator can fab something up with limited, poor quality tools/equipment, and a poor fabricator can whip up a scratched, non-square, jagged cut, pigeon-poop welded together set of rock sliders with $100k worth of equipment.

the basics are
1, chop saw i've had the same harbor freight one for 10 years
2, angle grinder with cut-off wheels, grinding wheels, flap-wheels, and wire-wheels, i buy about 1 of those a month from harbor freight, they are like $15
3, wire feed welder, coated wire will get you by, around $100.00
4, if not mig, an arc welder, they won't weld thin stuff well, but can penetrate much deeper in to thicker stuff than even an expensive mig welder
if a welder is not an option for you, many times in the past i have taken my parts over to a muffler shop and said "hey, i'll pay you $20 to weld these pieces together...." they have welders, they know how to use them, and they don't charge the rates of professional welders.
5, drill press
6, if no drill press at least a variable speed drill, with decent drill bits, including step bits, and fluted non-step bits
7, A VICE!!!
8, jig saw, with metal blades
9, a de-burring tool, they are $10 and look like a pen with a crooked blade coming out of it. they de-burr drilled and cut holes easily
10, various styles of vice-grips

those'll get you by but things like angle finders, contour gauges, die-grinders, bench grinders, calipers.....and about a million other things will find their way into your tool box out eventual necessity
 
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sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Excellent list B2.

I bought my lincoln 110v welder at Home Depot. It's a light-duty welder, but it's built 6 rigs now, and I love it. It won't penetrate thicker than 1/4", but I've never needed to go thicker than that. It cost about $500-600. Would I love a nice $2000 miller? Absolutely. Do I need it? Absolutely not. My little lincoln is all I need.

As B2 listed, an arc welder is cheaper (~$250-300) and a little trickier to use. But no doubt learning to arc weld will make you better at all kinds of welding.
 

B2-Bomber

Guest
Location
SL, UT
learned on an AC arc welder when i was a kid, if you can stick weld, you can mig without much of a learning curve, but it doesn't go the other way.

if you can braze, you can pick up tig welding pretty quick too.

i currently have a $5,000 Snap-On welder (re-badged lincoln) it has seen several hundred pounds of wire through it.

i left out the old adage that most guys think they are not succeptable to: MEASURE TWICE, CUT ONCE!
also don't be afraid to draw pictures, hold the piece up and mock it before you cut, and keep doing so after every step so that you don't paint yourself into a corner because you wrote something down wrong, or remembered it wrong in your head. that will save you tons of headaches
 

skippy

Pretend Fabricator
Location
Tooele
My favorite thing that I finally upgrade a little while ago was my welding hood I used to have a cheapo auto darkening hood and it always did the Job but when I finally stepped up to a name brand helmet it made a huge difference not so much in weld quality but comfort and being able to see your weld better helps a ton
 

TJDukit

I.Y.A.A.Y.A.S.
Location
Clearfield
I went down to Triple S Steel in Salt Lake. Picked through their remenants and paid 55 cents a pound. It's much cheaper that way and for most things like sliders and bumpers you should be able to find what you need.
 

B2-Bomber

Guest
Location
SL, UT
wasatch steel on 3300 s. sells steel items, and aluminum diamond plate, metal supermarkets sells aluminum, both places allow you to buy remnants for much less than a whole sheet or stick.

as far as buying expensive goes...not always is it "cheaper in the long run" that is why some of my stuff is Snap-On, while others is harbor freight, as you gain experience you'll be able to identify which items are "worth" spending more on, and which are not.

but "always buying more expensive" will lighten your wallet with not necesarrily a gain on every single item

and "always buying cheap" is better on your wallet but will leave you desiring more out of some of your tools

had i bought a $300 chop saw 10 years ago i'd have spend $250 too much, but if i bought a harbor freight ratchet i'd have gotten a new one of those 100-times-over in the last 12 months.

as with all things in life no single philosphy or rule is best 100% of the time. just use your best judgement
 

blznnp

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman
the remenants bay is a good one cause you don't have to get huge pieces of metal or pay a cut for if you don't want a full piece. and the price is based on how much weight you get, i think the first 10-15 lbs is 75 cents/lb at triple S steel. like gravesdigger said, stick with the name brand welder, im sure you can find a little 110v one on ksl or maybe even a pawn shop. I have one of the bigger welders that sixstring (only bought it since i got employee discount) is talking about, but i have only used it a few times on thicker steel so I could have probably gotten by with a smaller one for everything I do and 1/4" is generally gonna be the thickest you would use for something on a rig.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
One thing a friend taught me: good fitment is the difference between good fab and poor fab. A lot of people think that as long as they can weld they can make anything work. While this is relatively true, a good fitter is harder to find than a good welder. You'll spend 95% of your time cutting your pieces and making them fit perfectly, squaring them up, de-burring, etc. and 5% of the time actually welding and fastening. I'm still not the best fitter, but I'm learning to be more patient and OCD about perfectly straight pieces and right angles and tight fitting joints.
 

Omgbecki

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
You guys are super helpful. Looks like I'll see what I can find welder wise and go from there. I was suggested to just get a 220 would that be better for the long run? Like I said I'm mainly looking into sliders, skids, and so forth so I'm not sure what would be needed. I've been looking at the cost of these items and am wondering if it would be cost effective to just make my own. I know it would also be a helpful skill to pick up.
 
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blznnp

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman
220 is nice cause it will be able to run hotter and have a good power supply, a good option is a DVI welder, I know miller has one, not sure if lincoln does or not, you can run 110v or 220v. It is only on the 175 or 180 model though i believe which is a little more pricier. you will like running the 220 more. if running a 110 though, make sure you have it plugged into a good outlet, like a GFI. I had houses that I worked on that I had to go around and try different outlets cause our 110 that we used for light duty wouldn't run good, we would eventually just fire up our generator welder and plug our cord into that. but that wasn't very many houses and was just on normal outlets and not GFI's
 

Badger

I am the Brute squad
Location
South Salt Lake
The Miller dual welder is the MillerMatic 211..My boss just got one and I have been using it solely on 110 for fixing things on the trailers and what not. I think it works well for anything 3/16 or under on 110 I have welded some 3/8 and it burned well but you know 220 would do better. If I were to pick a new welder for myself it would be the Miller. Lincoln 180 Dual is also around and it's cheaper. When we were getting the Miller they said that people were bringing them back complaining and getting the Millers instead and to be honest Miller is top notch to Lincoln as far as I'm concerned. I would gladly pay more for the Miller. As for the price of the Miller it can be had for less the the websites price. Just a matter of going to the right place and knowing the right people. You are lucky though because I'm sure somebody on here has a hook up at one of the local stored and would be willing to help you out.
 

blznnp

Well-Known Member
Location
Herriman
You are lucky though because I'm sure somebody on here has a hook up at one of the local stored and would be willing to help you out.
I get a discount at airgas and praxair, not sure how much. its a student discount, just let me know if you want me to look at some prices on new ones
 

bamacpl

Well-Known Member
Location
Roy, Utah
I'd invest in a plasma!!! I couldn't live without mine!!!
- band saw
-for the chop saw I'd get one that uses a carbide blade !!
 
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