What was the best stock Dana 60 axle sitting under? I've seen them in junkyards/people parting out trucks and was wondering makes and models that are jems and what ones to avoid. Did any have a lower gear ratio? I want to pick up one if I get a great deal but not have to sink a bunch of extra money because I got crap. Also dose anybody respline axles in Utah?
Best stock Dana 60 Axle?
- Thread starter GREMLIN
- Start date
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
Uhhh..... That's a pretty loaded question.
Front or rear?
Front or rear?
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
Because you are cutting down the axle and need to respline the shafts once you cut them to the new length. I think Summit Machine can do that for you.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
As to the original question, it really depends on what you are doing with it. Are you talking about front or rear 60s? If you've seen front 60s in junk yards send me a PM with what junk yards you go to. 
Rear 60s are plentiful and cheap. If you're talking about front 60s the first thing to consider is what side the pinion is on. If you have a passenger side pinion I can't help much, I've never dealt with those. They are all low pinion (or custom). Driver side pinion 60s can be high or low pinion, with varying spring-pad width, suspension types, knuckle-joint types, and wheel bearing types. I think the majority of people would pretty much agree that high pinion is better than low pinion, kingpins are better than ball joints, and serviceable wheel bearings are better than unit-bearings. All these features are common to 78-91 Ford F350 SRW front 60s. Some are more desirable than others for specific applications. For example, I think 78 and 79 F350 front 60s have the same spring pad width as a YJ, which makes spring-overs exceedingly easy.
More information than you could possibly need about front 60s can be found here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html
Rear 60s are plentiful and cheap. If you're talking about front 60s the first thing to consider is what side the pinion is on. If you have a passenger side pinion I can't help much, I've never dealt with those. They are all low pinion (or custom). Driver side pinion 60s can be high or low pinion, with varying spring-pad width, suspension types, knuckle-joint types, and wheel bearing types. I think the majority of people would pretty much agree that high pinion is better than low pinion, kingpins are better than ball joints, and serviceable wheel bearings are better than unit-bearings. All these features are common to 78-91 Ford F350 SRW front 60s. Some are more desirable than others for specific applications. For example, I think 78 and 79 F350 front 60s have the same spring pad width as a YJ, which makes spring-overs exceedingly easy. More information than you could possibly need about front 60s can be found here:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html
Last edited:
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
As to the original question, it really depends on what you are doing with it. Are you talking about front or rear 60s? If you've seen front 60s in junk yards send me a PM with what junk yards you go to.
More information than you could possibly need about front 60s can be found here:
http://www.maxxis.com/products/automotive/product_detail.asp?id=5477
Did you mean here.....http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/60_front/index.html ??
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-35Spline/index.html
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
D'oh! yeah, woops...
- Location
- Bountiful, land of rocks
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
I don't have any info on that. The largest currently are the LT315/75R16. a 37 for 17" rims would be sweet.
Sorry, I type faster than I think
I was thinking of a rear for my Scout. I've got a 44 for the front and that will be fine for now. I'm sure I'll have to trim down a full size. I know i'll need to regear the front to match the back and was hoping for a stock low gear ratio. I'm trying to go cheap because I , like many of us, have a small problem with spending too much on old projects. Well if that's a problem, what does my girlfriend know anyway?
I was thinking of a rear for my Scout. I've got a 44 for the front and that will be fine for now. I'm sure I'll have to trim down a full size. I know i'll need to regear the front to match the back and was hoping for a stock low gear ratio. I'm trying to go cheap because I , like many of us, have a small problem with spending too much on old projects. Well if that's a problem, what does my girlfriend know anyway?
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
How much work are you willing/able to do? Most stock rear 60s are 30 spline. If you're going to leave it that way you might as well get a 44. If you want 35 spline strength, and are willing to do the work to get the spindles big enough to fit the axles (bore them, cut them off and take to a machinist and reweld them, or cut them off and weld on 14 bolt spindles), then a 60 is cool, but not cheap. If you want 35 spline strength but don't want to go to the cost and effort to deal with the 60 spindles, get a 14 bolt. They are cheap, easy to find, and very strong in stock form. The only thing is they are also huge. You can cut them down but that's more work and/or more money. All the full-float 60s are similar. Some will have 16 spline axle, some have 30. It doesn't make any difference if you intend to make it 35 spline anyway.
