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BMW R1200C Issues

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stimmie

Registered User
Location
Roosevelt
So about a month ago, I purchased a 2000 BMW R1200C with just under 6900 miles on it that had been sitting for 4-5 years, maybe longer. I've been spending the last month cleaning up the tank and replacing the fuel pump. All the insulation on the wiring inside the tank had corroded away, and I had to even re-solder in new wires for the low fuel sensor and the fuel pump. I tested continuity to all my wiring, and verified that I got the right wires to the right connector. The issue is the fuel pump does not turn on. If I unplug the fuel pump connector, I can measure 12.2-12.3V at the plug. I plug it in, and back probe the connector, and I have no voltage whatsoever. Now, since I really wanted to hear the bike run, I ran a jumper from the battery + to the positive wire at the fuel pump connector. Pump turns on, and bike runs. I even rednecked a car battery to the back (don't have the proper one yet) and rode the bike 12+ miles around the area. Works great with the jumper wire. I'm just stumped why as to why I lose power when I connect the plug. Fuses are all good. Anyone have access to a wiring diagram? Any thoughts?

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BMW R1200C

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Mouse

Mouse

Trying to wheel
Supporting Member
Location
West Haven, UT
Sounds like one of the pins inside the connector might not be seated correctly, or with the corrosion, it may have another problem. That seems to be the most likely culprit given the description.
 
Unimog

Unimog

Eric
Location
Stansbury Park, UT
Couple of ideas I would check: Connector or maybe the ground to the pump is bad? Possibly could be a bad relay that is passing voltage, but the contacts are roasted on it so it won't deliver enough amps when a real load is present?
 
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4x4_Welder

Well-Known Member
Location
Twin Falls, ID
You have a bad connection, bad relay, or some corrosion upstream from that connector. Without a load, enough power is able to get through to show battery voltage on a DMM, but once a load is applied it drops off. You can verify this by testing in conjunction with a test light, or they make an actual load testing tool that plugs into a standard DMM. I have one and it's revolutionized my diag game.
Start working back from the pump until you find where the power still is, then you'll have your fix.
 
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stimmie

Registered User
Location
Roosevelt
I haven’t found a relay anywhere. All I can find is the fuse. Which has power. From what I’m seeing, upstream of the connector it the computer. Which I’m sure isn’t cheap. I’ll have to see about finding a load testing tool. Maybe I just cut my losses, find a switched power, add in a fuse and turn the pump on when the key is on. Then just sell the thing… although it is more fun to ride than I expected…
 
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stimmie

Registered User
Location
Roosevelt
So in doing more digging, I finally found the relays underneath the computer. Great place to hide them. In doing so, I could trace the wires up from the connector to the relays. Once I found the relay, I googled the part number on the relay in question. This was where I found the error in my ways. Since I had to completely rewire the fuel pump hanger inside the tank, I wired the fuel pump wire to the fuel level wire, and the fuel level wire to the fuel pump. Since I didn't want to tear open the fuel tank, I swapped the wires at the connector. Bike now starts and runs as it should. Now to wash it, take some pictures, and put it up on the market. Maybe I'll ride it some first :) but it will be for sale... Thanks to those that pointed me in directions to look. It at least headed me in the direction I needed to fix the problem.
 
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stimmie

Registered User
Location
Roosevelt
She cleans up nicely. I prefer the look without the saddle bags. ABS lights are on. Other than that everything works including the heated grips.
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2000 BMW R1200C

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Tebbsjeep

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
Your abs lights could simply be the "wheel circuit" of the abs fluid reservoirs are low. I had that problem on my 05 BMW Rockster, and it was a quick fix once I figured it out.
 
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