Bondo.........

[Shawn]

So I have been thinking about playing with some bondo. Afer spending as much time as I have getting the commando body ready for paint I guess I should make it look as good as I can. I have really never worked with the stuff.... and advice?
Best place to get it, is there a better brand...

Please tutor me..

 

[harkinoff]

Apply thin coates at a time.
Have metal very clean in the area being used.
Have metal scuffed where being applied.
Drill holes in area being applied to help bond, when applying, push into area so bondo goes into holes and creates a mushroom head effect on backside of metal.
Never have bondo more than a 1/4" thick, just what I was told...
Brands, I use Bondo brand, holds up pretty well on this beat up Scout I drive
I'm noooooo body man, but I have been tutor'd a time or too by a couple as you know...

 

[Shawn]

Thanks,

How about the sanding,,, getting it to match the body lines. Just take my time and work it slowly... I guess... that sounded goofy..

 

[harkinoff]

Thanks,

How about the sanding,,, getting it to match the body lines. Just take my time and work it slowly... I guess... that sounded goofy..

You know, keep the sander flat ( so you don't get wobbly metal looks)and work the edges by feathering outward to match good metal. You did buy a DA sander right? Take your time and make it smoooooth and get all sanding marks out by stepping up in sanding grit papers or in your case disks.
Harbor freight does have a pretty good selection of sand disks and pretty good prices. I did notice though that the glue they use is kinda cheap and when the disks start getting old they don't stick as well.

 

[Shawn]

I'll give er a try..........

 

[mbryson]

Heavy grits work best to get things straight. (I use 80) Blocks are your friend (and yes, it's nasty, hard work, but worth it if you're going for straight).

 

[SnwMnkys]

Personally i wouldnt drill any holes in the bodywork to "help" bondo stick to the metal. If its having a problem sticking to the metal then you either didnt prep it good enough, or you're using too much of it. If you have a big surface you need to apply bondo too then try a long sanding board, that will help ease sanding which takes alot of time. I try not to use the DA to frequently, you cant get very precise with it, and often will sand deeper then you need to go because it removes so much so fast, and you have no feel with it, but i cheat every once in a while with it.

 

[Shawn]

Thanks,

ok,,,, what is a DA?

 

[dunatic67]

Thanks,

ok,,,, what is a DA?

Dual Action sander. They use round sanding discs and they vibrate the sanding disc rather than spin and grind.
To add to the subject of drilling holes in metal- holes are traditionally drilled for a puller to bring the metal back as closely as possible to the original shape before using putty. That has been replaced by pullers that weld to the panel- can't remember the name. You don't want holes as Bondo or any other filler will absorb water (think about the times you have seen filler fall out of a vehicle- the metal is usually rusted). Which brings another point- NEVER leave the filler open to water as it will absorb the moisture and the moisture goes directly to the metal and starts rust behind the filler- eventually the filler will loose the bond and fall out.

 

[Shawn]

Cool, I do have the DA sander. I don't have double walled body pannels so the drilling is not an option any way.

Please keep the comments coming, I love to learn

 

[BCGPER]

Dont drill, it allows moisture to enter under the bondo, and pop it loose. Like mark said, grit is good. Start out with a body file, followed by 36, then 80, then 120. Prime it at this point, then a coat of glaze. Take 99% of the glaze off with 180, then reprime. Final sanding, and you're done. Sounds easy, right? :greg:

The DA will be your best friend. I've got an 18" inline if you've got some (like hood or side panels) really flat areas to work out.....

Sound bout right Marc? You're the pro here.

Cool, I do have the DA sander. I don't have double walled body pannels so the drilling is not an option any way.

Please keep the comments coming, I love to learn

 

[mbryson]

Dont drill, it allows moisture to enter under the bondo, and pop it loose. Like mark said, grit is good. Start out with a body file, followed by 36, then 80, then 120. Prime it at this point, then a coat of glaze. Take 99% of the glaze off with 180, then reprime. Final sanding, and you're done. Sounds easy, right? :greg:

The DA will be your best friend. I've got an 18" inline if you've got some (like hood or side panels) really flat areas to work out.....

Sound bout right Marc? You're the pro here.

That'll work pretty well. I know lots of people that do it that way and that's how I learned. (way back in the days of laquer primer and spot putty)

I actually just use catalyzed primer and don't use much spot putty anymore. Saves enough time it's worth the money. I work the 'dent' area (no holes) with a hammer or a stud gun/slide hammer combo to get as much dent out as you can (stud guns rule), fill the rest of the dent and sand 'flat' with a nice DA (Dynabrade is a great one, but $$$). Prep for paint with wax/grease remover after masking, tack off and spray 4 pretty generous coats of catalyzed primer with the recommended flash time between coats.

After the primer has cured (2-3 hours), I block sand with 80 grit (the longer the block the better), hit the sanded areas lightly with some 220 by hand (just knock the big 80 grit ridges off) and reprime with 3 generous coats. Let it dry overnight (sometimes junk 'sucks' in) or even a little longer, lightly spray some black primer over the top for a 'guide coat', DA with 320 paper, and then wetsand with 500 (if you sand the guide coat off, you will have a SMOOTH surface).

WASH and rewash and rewash the whole rig (engine compartment, axles, brakes, everything) and then rewash it again. Blow (compressed air--BC might be able to blow that much in a BS session, but I can't) off any and all water from mouldings, gaskets etc and start masking for paint.

Wipe with wax and grease remover, tack, spray a decent coat of sealer, tack, base coat, tack and throw the clear on.

 

[Shawn]

MBryson, you have just stated what I read over and over.... oh my... This Commando won't be a show rig and I don't have the time to do the work you have just discribed... I just wanted to throw down some etching primer, sand it, and paint it. This is a trail rig so it will get scrached. However... I would like it to look good for a little while, the body is not perfect nor will it be, so why would I want to put that much into prep.. Ya think I'm ok with the etching and paint or do I need to add more primer...

 

[crimsonride]

My 10 cents.

make sure the sander is touching the body before turing it on. don't turn it on then apply it to the body.

To see if there's an imperfection run your hand back and forth quickly over the spot you've been working. If you feel anything at all it will show.
Also, look away when you rub your hand over the spot. That helps you to "feel" it rather than see it.

 

[81Ramchargerman]

Man, this thread kicks a**...when I finally need to do body work, I will know where to find the answers :greg:

 

[mbryson]

MBryson, you have just stated what I read over and over.... oh my... This Commando won't be a show rig and I don't have the time to do the work you have just discribed... I just wanted to throw down some etching primer, sand it, and paint it. This is a trail rig so it will get scrached. However... I would like it to look good for a little while, the body is not perfect nor will it be, so why would I want to put that much into prep.. Ya think I'm ok with the etching and paint or do I need to add more primer...

Honestly (and this is how I'll be painting my YJ)....... I'm going to do everything the same except the blccking step. Fix the big dents, prime it, DA with 320 and guide coat, wet sand, and paint....... (and for a show rig, I block it at least 2 times-depends how it looks with wet primer on it the second time)

It'll look pretty respectable, but you won't CRINGE when it gets some character.

 

[Milner]

My $.02.... Sand, prime, pull it under the tree (it's hot in the sun), paint
Yep, doesn't look to good, but you'll laugh when you lay it over and someone says "that sucks, you just painted that".

BTW Marc B. think I could talk you in to painting a Miata trunk? My method just does not seem right for that car....

 

[mbryson]

........BTW Marc B. think I could talk you in to painting a Miata trunk? My method just does not seem right for that car....

Grab the paint, sandpaper, masking paper/tape and primer and bring it over

 

[Milner]

Grab the paint, sandpaper, masking paper/tape and primer and bring it over

 

[SICK99TJ]

gay ?

Thanks,

How about the sanding,,, getting it to match the body lines. Just take my time and work it slowly... I guess... that sounded goofy..