Box Rocket '03 DC Tacoma Build

Most of this info is on some other boards, but I'm starting to get to know more of you local guys that on here on RME so I figured I'd share some build info.

Current state of my truck.


2003 Toyota Tacoma Doublecab TRD
3.4L 5VZE V6
Stock Auto Trans
Stock t-case
Open front diff
Rear TRD e-locker

ARMOR:
Trail-Gear Low Profile front bumper (with custom light mounts)
Trail-Gear Rock sliders
Custom home-built Rear bumper with dual swingouts
Custom home-built IFS Skidplate
Custom home-built trans skidplate
Custom home-built belly Skidplate
Custom home-built rear frame reinforcement plates

SUSPENSION:
OME 882 front coils
OME Nitrocharger Sport front shocks
JK 10mm Trim Packer
Cornfed front diff drop
OME Dakar rear leaf springs
OME D6XL extra leaf
OME Nitrocharger Sport rear shocks (relocated)
All-Pro 1.5" extended rear shackles
Trail-Gear U-bolt flip
EVCO custom extended rear SS brakeline

WHEELS/TIRES:
15x8" Ultra Motorsport En4Cer Type 181 wheels (rattle canned black)
33x12.50 Goodyear MTR Kevlars
33x10.50 BFG KM2 spare on factory 7" steel wheel

MISC MODS:
ARB Safari Snorkel
Optima Red Top Battery
Front Seat swap from Suzuki Reno
HELLA Optilux 7" HIDs (x3) on front bumper
Custom home-built bed rack
Tepui Autana RTT with Annex
Portable CO2 tank
Bed-mounted custom Fridge Slide
ARB Fridge
Custom bed-mounted bucket seats (seating for 7)
Snugtop XTR fiberglass topper
Uniden Pro 520xl CB radio
Alpine Deck
LED rock lights
Hella Matador rear utility light
Custom rear seat area deck for fridge etc.

I found this truck on KSL a few years ago for a great deal. It was clean and well maintained with pretty low miles (85K). Had a small leveling kit when I got it.


First order of business was suspension and sliders. Got all the suspension goodies from Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters and went to town.
Out with the old


In with the new




Old




New




I started out with OME shackles and found that I needed a little extra height and better load capacity so I added the extra leaf and longer shackles.
 

slcpunk74

Original Saboteur
Location
WB,UT
I'm not sure about the slower stuff but negative arch at speed is known to flatten springs. I guess this might be a non issue with crawling.
 

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
From my experience, it depends on the spring (for crawling at least). I've definitely flattened springs going into negative arch at slow speed. But I'm also running these OMEs with the overload, and no bumps, and I haven't lost any lift at all despite a lot of negative arching. THe overload leaf will keep it from getting too crazy negative, but it is still more negative than I'd feel taking other springs.
 
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sLcREX

Formerly Maldito X
Location
Utah
This has been one of my favorite Tacos since I first saw it a while back. It looks amazing and seema like it really performs. Thanks for posting it, great to see all the work you've put into it.
 

Box Rocket

bored
Location
Syracuse, Utah
Here's a few "in use" pics that Kurt asked for. :)

Little Sahara


Mineral Basin


Cliffhanger




Black Dragon Canyon


Steelbender


Moab Rim




Poison Spider


Golden Spike




SE Utah somewhere


Lund, Utah


Signal Peak


Rock Corral, Milford, Utah


Boulder Mountain


Powell Point


Near Hanksville, Utah


Inspiration Point


Custer State Park, South Dakota
 

Box Rocket

bored
Location
Syracuse, Utah
I love the heck out of this truck.

More details on the trailer please! It looks like the track width is wider than your truck? And how do you like the tongue length for dragging it through tight trails, any trouble there?

The track width on the trailer is just barely wider than the Tacoma. I built it before I had the Tacoma and matched it to my Land Cruiser. The track width is the same as the Cruiser.





The tongue length is as short as I was comfortable making it. If it was any shorter the trailer would contact the tow rig in a Jackknife situation. The trailer does really quite well. Way better than I hoped since I had no idea what I was doing when I built it. It follows almost exactly in the tracks of the tow rig so tight trailer aren't typically a problem.
 

Box Rocket

bored
Location
Syracuse, Utah
finally replaced a worn out CV




Also trying to make my tires last through one more wheeling season. I pulled the whees/tires off the Cruiser (since it's parked for a while) and put them on the Tacoma for road driving. Painted the 80 wheels. Really like how they came out. Graphite VHT paint, 4 coats paint, 3 coats clear. Tires are 315 75R16. 35's are a tight fit but they work great on the road. I couldn't wheel with them like this unless I tubbed the firewall, but they'll work great on the road.



 

jesse72

New Member
Location
West Jordan
Your Tacoma is one bad ride man, great work and innovation building all the bumpers and carriers yourself. Also, maybe I missed it but is there a thread on the build of your trailer? Awesome work!
 

SLC97SR5

IDIesel
Location
Davis County
Beautiful Tacoma!

I'm curious about your thoughts on the KM2's vs the MTR's. Tire life, road noise, overall handling on/off road.

Would the spacers have solved stability issues with the 10.50's?

Not to turn this into a tire thread but I'm faced with a pending rubber purchase for my 3rd gen.
 

Box Rocket

bored
Location
Syracuse, Utah
Beautiful Tacoma!

I'm curious about your thoughts on the KM2's vs the MTR's. Tire life, road noise, overall handling on/off road.

Would the spacers have solved stability issues with the 10.50's?

Not to turn this into a tire thread but I'm faced with a pending rubber purchase for my 3rd gen.

I was asked the same question on another forum. Here is my response.....

Having had both tires now there a some clear differences. Here's my take on the two tires in different areas.

On the road: KM2 is a better dry pavement tire. It's relatively quite for a MT type tire and has decent road manners. Seems to balance well and has even treadwear as long as they are rotated and balanced regularly.

The MTR is a louder tire on the road than the KM2. The tread pattern is slightly more aggressive with slightly larger voids. You can hear more tire noise and feel the tread blocks hitting the pavement more with than you can on the KM2. The MTR still has good dry pavement behavior and the stiffer sidewall feels more stable in the corners.

On the Trail: I prefer the MTR on trails with a mixture of dirt/rock. They go where you point them better than the KM2, particularly at faster speeds. I have noticed less slipping and loss of traction on trails with the MTR.

The KM2 is a great trail tire, and in most cases has good traction. In loose dirt/rocks they will break loose earlier than the MTR. I was never stopped or stuck with the KM2s but just noticed they would start to spin earlier than the MTR.

In the rocks: MTR is superior in the rocks. On technical rocky trails with both tires in the 10-15psi range, the MTR has better traction and control than the KM2. When I had the KM2s, I never had a complaint about them in the rocks. They are very good, but once I replaced them with the MTR, I have found that the MTR just outperforms the KM2 in the rocks. It's not a HUGE difference but noticeable.

In the Rain (pavement): Both tires seem about equal in the rain. I haven't noticed any tendency to hydroplane from either tire and both had good wet traction.

On Icy hardpack roads: Both tires are dismal in these conditions unless they have been siped. The large treadblocks on both tires are just not the right design for a tire used on icy roads. Siping makes a big difference and both tires can be an acceptable winter tire if siped. Even with siping neither tire is the best choice if you are looking for a tire specifically for winter driving. There are better tires out there for icy hardpack driving. The GY Duratrac and the Interco Trxus are superior MT style tires for winter driving.

In Deep Snow:
The design of the treadblocks seems to make a difference here. The tread of the MTR has more sharp corners than the KM2 and the voids are generally larger on the MTR. These features seem to provide better deep snow traction and keep you moving forward better and longer with the MTR. Air pressure is a big factor here too. I like to run in the 8-10psi range for deep snow. This gives better floatation and I'm able to keep moving better than with higher air pressure that tends to make the tires dig and spin. There is a constant debate about whether floatation in snow is better or worse than a tire that will dig down to solid ground. The way I look at it, if the tire is digging down to solid ground that is putting axles, skidplates, wheel hubs and even bumpers closer to the snow that can drag and hinder forward progress. The more parts of the truck you have to drag through the snow the more you're going to get stuck. I am a believer in floatation in deep snow.

In the Mud: The MTR is a better Mud tire without question. I don't like to play in the mud and I typically avoid it at all costs but every once in a while it's unavoidable. In deep mud I would get stuck sooner with the KM2. I was shocked on a recent trip where we encountered LOTS of deep mud. I'm certain that the KM2s would have lost traction and left me stuck and needing a strap or winch in a couple spots. I never needed either one with the MTRs. I was able to drive through all the muddiest spots we encountered where other trucks needs help.

Bottom line for me on these tires is I have found that I like the MTR better is almost all areas except for icy roads and for the amount of road noise and road comfort. If you want a smoother riding, quieter tire, then the KM2 is a better choice that will still perform well offroad. But for me the extra benefits offroad with the MTR will probably make me buy another set of them instead of KM2s when the time comes to replace them.

The KM2 is better in the icy conditions when siped. So if you're looking at the biggest weakness of both tires its in icy hardpack snow. If you have both tires siped, the KM2 will still be slightly better in these conditions than the MTR. If you don't have them siped, they are miserable.
 
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