Brake bleeding suggestions needed.

[J-mobzz]

So I have this 1984 amc Eagle that hasn’t been much fun. It’s basically sat for months because I changed the calipers, wheel cylinder and some brake lines and I can not get the pedal back. I’ve tried self bleeders, vacuum bleeders and even picked up a air powered vacuum bleeder from harbor freight today and no luck.
One thing that I feel might be weird is when I press the brake pedal with the cap off the master cylinder then let off it like spits brake fluid as I let the pedal up almost like it’s burping. That doesn’t seem right to me? Any ideas? Suggestions? I really would like to get this thing braking again and get it sold as I have a new project I’d like to direct my time and space to.

 

[Jinx]

It might just be me, but on those older vehicles, I am big fan of a gravity bleed.

Top off master cylinder, put a small hose on the bleeder that runs into a jar/bottle that is the fartherest from the master cylinder, crack the bleeder, and enjoy a beverage.

When the Beverage is done, tighten up the bleeder, and move to the next fartherest away cylinder, repeat...

If you had replaced the master cylinder I would have asked if you had bench bled it...

Good luck

 

[J-mobzz]

It might just be me, but on those older vehicles, I am big fan of a gravity bleed.

Top off master cylinder, put a small hose on the bleeder that runs into a jar/bottle that is the fartherest from the master cylinder, crack the bleeder, and enjoy a beverage.

When the Beverage is done, tighten up the bleeder, and move to the next fartherest away cylinder, repeat...

If you had replaced the master cylinder I would have asked if you had bench bled it...

Good luck

thanks for the suggestion I’ll do that right now.

 

[4x4_Welder]

Just to ask the question-

The calipers are in the proper side, right?

 

[J-mobzz]

Just to ask the question-

The calipers are in the proper side, right?

Hahaha yes my google showed me how people mess that up trapping air but mine are mounted correctly. I just finished gravity bleeding a tall bottle of fluid through and they are slightly better. Maybe I just need to go grab 3 tall bottles and gravity bleed it all through. I had to replace hard line in the rear axle as well as front brake lines but wow never have I had issues like this.

 

[I Lean]

You could also try a power bleeder. Like the gravity bleed, but faster and MORE POWER. (I have a "Motiv" brand one)

 

[bryson]

Sounds to me like air got into the master cylinder during the work, and that is what's causing your issues. I think that would also explain the burping you mentioned. I know it sucks, but maybe the master needs to be bench bled.

 

[J-mobzz]

Sounds to me like air got into the master cylinder during the work, and that is what's causing your issues. I think that would also explain the burping you mentioned. I know it sucks, but maybe the master needs to be bench bled.

I’ll have to look into this. Thank you for the suggestion l.

 

[J-mobzz]

You could also try a power bleeder. Like the gravity bleed, but faster and MORE POWER. (I have a "Motiv" brand one)

I looked up the model you have I think it’s similar to the cheep one I bought. https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
This thing was moving fluid pretty fast.

 

[Shawn]

Having the fluid shoot out of the resivor is fine, that is what happens after pressure. Hidden bubbles can be a bitch, sometime tapping on the caliper during the bleading process can help move the bubbles. If you have a solid clear line of break fluid on all corners, look for a leak, some where air could be getting in.

 

[YROC FAB.]

Might need to bench bleed the master if you let it drain completly. Also on older master cylinder especially cast iron ones they get corroded where the piston seal isnt touching, once you crack a brake line or change the brake pads or anything that makes it not cycle in its uncorroded spot it can push past the corrosion wrecking the seal, ive seen it several times.

 

[J-mobzz]

Might need to bench bleed the master if you let it drain completly. Also on older master cylinder especially cast iron ones they get corroded where the piston seal isnt touching, once you crack a brake line or change the brake pads or anything that makes it not cycle in its uncorroded spot it can push past the corrosion wrecking the seal, ive seen it several times.

I’m thinking this may be the case. New master it looks like.

thanks everyone for the comments and advise much appreciated.

 

[I Lean]

I looked up the model you have I think it’s similar to the cheep one I bought. https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html
This thing was moving fluid pretty fast.

Maybe? Does that work on pressure at the MC or vacuum at the caliper? (kinda sounds like vac from the description)

 

[J-mobzz]

Maybe? Does that work on pressure at the MC or vacuum at the caliper? (kinda sounds like vac from the description)

Yes your correct. I might have to look into that more.

 

[J-mobzz]

So I was able to track it down. One of The new wheel cylinders I replaced was leaking. I came into the shop and saw a tiny spot near the wheel so I pulled the drum apart to find a huge mess.
any ways thank you to everyone that gave suggestions I was really hating this car for awhile