I just upgraded my YJ to a Waggy Dana 44 and a Rodeo 44 rear. I have to pump the brakes 2-3 times before it will stop. It seems to lose pressure everytime after I brake. I am using the stock Master Cylinder, is that the problem? If so what is the solution. What will swap into my YJ with ease! Kinda tired of wrenchin for the year and don't want to do anymore fab then I have to. Any input is better than none.
brake problems, Dana 44 swap
- Thread starter PierCed_3
- Start date
RockRoach
Member
- Location
- American Fork, UT
are you sure you bled them well?
Last edited:
the master cylinder is fine unless its shot all together...but I doubt it...I will put money on air in the lines...I had the same problem when I did my D44/9" swap...I pressure bled them a ton and it never got much better...so I finally gravity bled them and it helped tremendously...if you dotn know how to gravity bleed just ask we will gladly tell...
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
When you Gravity bleed, do you just do one caliper at a time?
when you gravity bleed you can do all them at once...the same rules apply though, you should close them off starting witht he farthest away from the MC and moving to the closest...
all you have to do to gravity bleed is you open all you calipers bleed screws then you open the MC and it just trickles out of them all...as Shawn said you should tap the caliper to try and release any trapped bubbles and just make sure to keep you MC topped off...do this for quite a while...I had to go through two 32 oz. bottles of fluid before mine were good...then when you are done you close the farthest away then move to the next farthest then the next then the closest...pretty simple and it actually works
all you have to do to gravity bleed is you open all you calipers bleed screws then you open the MC and it just trickles out of them all...as Shawn said you should tap the caliper to try and release any trapped bubbles and just make sure to keep you MC topped off...do this for quite a while...I had to go through two 32 oz. bottles of fluid before mine were good...then when you are done you close the farthest away then move to the next farthest then the next then the closest...pretty simple and it actually works
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
that is the normal bleed. It is a pressure bleed. Gravity bleed is when you just open up the the zerk, and just let it free flow.PierCed_3 said:
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
that makes sense.supergper said:
Another problem there, we tried to take a zerk off the front caliper and it broke off. Any suggestions on how to replace, tap, make work again? The treads are still in the hole just the top broke off. Luckily it is plugged all to He!! so it doesn't leak. I would rather have it there for safety sake.
Another thing to do After you have gravity fed, is to do the old one person bleeding. Put a hose on the end of your bleeder and place the other end into a jar with brake fluid in it. as you pump, there is no way air can get back into the system. I had to do this after I gravity fed (when I swaped my axles) to get the best stopping results.
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
yup. get a new caliper. seriously.PierCed_3 said:
PierCed_3 said:
Reman, $16.99
http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/n...5.9+L++360+CID++V8&search_string=&org_string=
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
Autozone for like 12 bucks.Shawn said: