Broke an Axle-Dana 44 Full Floater and Alloy shafts

[Kiel]

Well I broke my first dana 44 rear axle yesterday after a year of hard wheeling. I have a dana 44 with an offset diff out of an 75 wagoneer with quadra trac. Well It has held up great so far except for this. I mean how far can you push a dana 44 with 60 hp. I don't want to get rid of it, so I was thinking maybe a full floater kit with alloys would give me all the strength I need. I DON'T WANT A 60!!!! The kits like warns would probably work but nothing is made for the offset rear. Plus the bolt pattern is 5x 4.5 but mine is 6x5.5- So the only thing I can think of is use the warn kit and rear drill the flange/hub for 6x5.5 and have some shafts made to fit the offset. What do you guys think? Also does anybody know if they make alloy or moly shafts for the offset rear, I can't find anything but a universal kit.

 

[Caleb]

I think you're on the right track. I see no reason it wouldn't work to redrill the shafts and/or custom shafts. I agree that a 60 is way unnecessary BUT it will likely be a ton cheaper to use. If you are up for a custom dealio thing why no make your own FF axle. Use the D44 housing and get some 14 bolt ends. I am sure you could get custom length shafts form Alloy USA or $uperior, or maybe even some Yukon axles. That could be a cool axle IMO.

 

[toomeymd]

wow man, you broke a 44? My sammi has 10 bolts, I thought there was no way I could ever break them, now you got me wondering.

 

[I Lean]

I think in your case I'd shy away from going to a FF, it'll just add weight and complexity where you prolly don't need it. Also, as you know it won't add any significant breaking strength, only the ability to drive with a broken axle.

I'd be surprised if you can find any "ready made" chromoly shafts for it, but you can certainly get some made. Talk to Dutchman, Superior, maybe Alloy USA. May as well give Randy's a call too, they surprise me what weird stuff they have all the time.

Since it took you a year to break the stocker, a chromoly one would likely last you 5. (until you start bumping the power of that 1.3...)

 

[Kiel]

Yeah it snapped good, sucked big time. But It works so good the clearence of it and the ring and pinion look great. A 60 would be cool for the long run but after the offset needed for the t case and the gears locker and custom shafts It would be way out there. Much farther then the sami drivetrain and platform will go. I'm very interested in my own floater setup, anybody every did this? I've ran upper helldorado, most of the delta trails, the cedar trails, and now the richfield trails, but they broke me, but I keep pushing it farther and farther and run even harder and harder

 

[Kiel]

I think in your case I'd shy away from going to a FF, it'll just add weight and complexity where you prolly don't need it. Also, as you know it won't add any significant breaking strength, only the ability to drive with a broken axle.

I'd be surprised if you can find any "ready made" chromoly shafts for it, but you can certainly get some made. Talk to Dutchman, Superior, maybe Alloy USA. May as well give Randy's a call too, they surprise me what weird stuff they have all the time.

Since it took you a year to break the stocker, a chromoly one would likely last you 5. (until you start bumping the power of that 1.3...)

But won't going full float take a lot of the load off that axle? I though I heard something around 20-25 percent stronger(meaning the shaft isn't stronger just the weight and load is much less.) Plus the moly or alloy would give me all the strength I ever need with this platform, Unless your comp buggy suddenly went on 90 percent sale Carl

 

[rolloverBill]

I'm looking to swap my rear just like you did. I am thinking of upgrading the axle shafts. I thought rocky-roadoutfitters had some but couldn't find them on the site. Same for Calmini, roadlessgear, and petroworks. Let me know what you find.

 

[I Lean]

But won't going full float take a lot of the load off that axle? I though I heard something around 20-25 percent stronger(meaning the shaft isn't stronger just the weight and load is much less.) Plus the moly or alloy would give me all the strength I ever need with this platform, Unless your comp buggy suddenly went on 90 percent sale Carl

A floater will take the weight of the vehicle off the shaft, but since you broke yours at the splines the weight wasn't a factor for you. (that would tend to bend/break at the flange)

The other concern I'd have with a floater is the strength of the hubs if you chose to use 'em. I'm pretty sure D44-size hubs wouldn't hold up to the torque you'd put them under in a rear application, so you'd be stuck running drive flanges.

If you do build your own setup, I'd look into using stock front D44 spindles/wheel hubs/all that, so you have matching stuff F&R.

I would have gone semi-float on my rear 60, but you can't get 8-lug semifloat shafts so i was stuck with staying FF.

 

[Kiel]

I'm looking to swap my rear just like you did. I am thinking of upgrading the axle shafts. I thought rocky-roadoutfitters had some but couldn't find them on the site. Same for Calmini, roadlessgear, and petroworks. Let me know what you find.

Those guys don't carry stuff for dana 44's just the sami stuff which your probably running anyways, thanks though

 

[Kiel]

A floater will take the weight of the vehicle off the shaft, but since you broke yours at the splines the weight wasn't a factor for you. (that would tend to bend/break at the flange)

The other concern I'd have with a floater is the strength of the hubs if you chose to use 'em. I'm pretty sure D44-size hubs wouldn't hold up to the torque you'd put them under in a rear application, so you'd be stuck running drive flanges.

If you do build your own setup, I'd look into using stock front D44 spindles/wheel hubs/all that, so you have matching stuff F&R.

I would have gone semi-float on my rear 60, but you can't get 8-lug semifloat shafts so i was stuck with staying FF.

Dammit Carl always puttin down the full floater aren't you, but that makes sense, I'll call around for just some semi alloy or molys thanks

 

[Crinco]

I believe your last words were, " I want to give that one more try......."
You didn't give up on the waterfall though, I think you would have found the right line.
Just take the axle out from under that truck of yours and your worried are behind you!

I guess I have a problem too, not sure what it is yet. Sounds like a bearing issue, had some grinding and popping sounds coming back into town. I will look at it when I get a chance.
Chris

 

[rockreligious]

I dont know if anyone in Utah can cryogen your shafts, theres a guy in Sac, CA who cryo's by the pound and its cheap, its the shipping that stings. If your shafts have lasted this long being stock, they should last for ever after being cryo-ed. hes on pirate4x4.

 

[Bart]

I know Mike at Summit is working on a cryo connection but hadn't got one the last time I talked to him. You might want to give him a call just in case. Otherwise go with the guy off Pirates.

 

[Greg]

There's a Cryo shop here in Grand Junction, I don't know about prices but they're much closer than California. If you deleiver it, you can swing by Moab on the way.

 

[I Lean]

Dammit Carl always puttin down the full floater aren't you, but that makes sense, I'll call around for just some semi alloy or molys thanks

Not *always* putting it down, just in cute little Sami applications.

 

[Milner]

A floater will take the weight of the vehicle off the shaft, but since you broke yours at the splines the weight wasn't a factor for you. (that would tend to bend/break at the flange)

The other concern I'd have with a floater is the strength of the hubs if you chose to use 'em. I'm pretty sure D44-size hubs wouldn't hold up to the torque you'd put them under in a rear application, so you'd be stuck running drive flanges.

If you do build your own setup, I'd look into using stock front D44 spindles/wheel hubs/all that, so you have matching stuff F&R.

Agree, sort of, Difinately....

I agree with Carl, I don't think you need ff, or would gain much with it in your application (unless you want hubs for flat towing)

I do think you would be ok with 44 hubs in that light of rig. DJ ran a 44 rear with hubs in a HEAVY cruiser for many years without problems....putting atleast 2x the HP and 3x the torque to it....But carry a spare if you go that way

If you must do FF definately build it using 44 front spindles, hubs, rotors, brakes, etc....much cheaper and one spare set up covers all 4 corners

Cryo is probably overkill, but....good alloy shafts should be fine....or call ctm for some 300M overkill!!

 

[I Lean]

Agree, sort of, Difinately....

I agree with Carl, I don't think you need ff, or would gain much with it in your application (unless you want hubs for flat towing)

I do think you would be ok with 44 hubs in that light of rig. DJ ran a 44 rear with hubs in a HEAVY cruiser for many years without problems....putting atleast 2x the HP and 3x the torque to it....But carry a spare if you go that way

If you must do FF definately build it using 44 front spindles, hubs, rotors, brakes, etc....much cheaper and one spare set up covers all 4 corners

Cryo is probably overkill, but....good alloy shafts should be fine....or call ctm for some 300M overkill!!

Can you get 30 spline D44 hubs?

 

[waynehartwig]

Can you get 30 spline D44 hubs?

Didn't the 90's Dodge 3/4 ton pu's have D44's up front? I know they were 30 spline, maybe they were 30 spline 60's...

 

[Milner]

Can you get 30 spline D44 hubs?

It's been a few years....back to the AFWDS days....but IIRC it was a standard 44 warn hub and we replaced the center with a 30 spline gear....

It was always fun to unlock his hubs when he wasn't looking

 

[I Lean]

Didn't the 90's Dodge 3/4 ton pu's have D44's up front? I know they were 30 spline, maybe they were 30 spline 60's...

Not sure, but I think they're unit bearing axles anyway, so no locking hubs. (could certainly be wrong...)