broken screw extractor!! how to remove?

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
So the "60 From Hell" has overamplified its evil to uncharted levels. The hellish bolts and seized everything I could deal with, but this is just ridiculous.

Tonight's issue: while attempting to remove THE LAST HOLDUP TO THE REBUILD!!!-- one of the studs that bolts the passenger side leaf spring down, I broke an ez-out off in the stud. The stud was previously resistant to the stud remover I was using, and was therefore ground off close to flush. The ez-out is broken down inside the hole.

So! How do you get these out?????? I was thinking of drilling a bunch of tiny holes and using a Helicoil, but I'd rather not.

Anyone????? I'm Googling right now, and EDM keeps coming up, not sure what that costs or if anyone in Tooele can do that... :( :(
 
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Jeremy

total tacoma points: 162
its trashed. scrap it and start over with a new one.;)

i recently had a similar experience with a steel bolt in an aluminum throttle body. the bolt broke off, the drill bit wouldnt stay centered, and then the ez-out broke off. it took me three days to replace the IAC on lisas neon.

sorry its late, im rambling and you dont care about my problems......
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
Of course I do, they're just as critical as my own LOL.

I have spent way too long getting this thing stripped down! Sucks having to fight every bolt. I knew it was going to be challenging, but... ah well, I'll be happy as a clam when it's under the truck and I'll forget all about this BS LOL
 

78mitsu

Registered User
Here's the way I do it. take a dremil or a cutoff wheel cut a slot across the top of the easy out, then tap it what would be loose with a punch - cold chisel on end works. Also try heat up the material then let it cool then heat then cool - sometimes works.
 

78mitsu

Registered User
I've got a punch I built out of a long punch that's cut on an angle so it's really sharp, you can try it with a screwdriver, might work.
 

wr250

insert lame comment
Location
hurricane
options:
1. bust up the extractor with a hammer and punch, and/or attempt to turn it out
2. drill the extractor out with a carbide drill bit
3.weld a nut to the top of the busted stud (not tack weld; fully weld the inside of the nut) and remove
4. use your plasma and blast the extractor out, drill out and helicoil/timesert

note if trying the prevoius replies of heat/cool as it cools spray pb (parts blaster) or other penetrating oil (not wd40) onto the stud. as it cools it will pull the penetrating oil into the threaded stud portion
 
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Zombie

Random Dead Guy
Location
Sandy Utah
I've decided when I find a 60 for my project, based on what I've learned from reading these Tacoma threads, I'll build a 60 sized kiddie pool, and filit with PB Blaster and just soak the 60 in it for a month or so.
 

78mitsu

Registered User
the one I like is the 55 gallon drum filled with deisel fuel, hang the 60 from the rafters stick one end in the drum wait 3-4 weeks then flip.
 

fergusor

Registered User
Location
Clearfield, ut
I have busted alot of the e-z outs in screws when I use to work on aircraft and it sucks. I would say the best way to remove it is to get a high speed grinder with a carbide or cobalt ball grinder( I cant remeber what one) and start grinding it down and also try tapping it to break it loose.
 

Crinco

Well-Known Member
Location
Heber
Checker sells the Reverse drill bits, but they are likely not stronger than the material you are drilling and may not last very long. They are Titanium coated.
CR
 

Tacoma

Et incurventur ante non
Location
far enough away
Well! The extractor is out. Met up with Aaron Clough today, and glad I did. He welded up a nut to what was left of the stud, and managed to take off a thread or two at a time LOL until the extractor popped out. Thanks Aaron! Unfortunately, the stud itself, perhaps feeling persecuted, is still dug in just fine.

BUT! I can get to it with drills now. That rocks. I'm going to try and hog it out and then retap the threads. Or I may take it to a machine shop and have them do it. The stud remnant may be heat-treated now LOL
 

92XJeeper

Member
Location
Ogden
In the future, don't use spiral type easy-outs; use the square type. They're much better and less prone to snapping.

BTW, when I broke an easy-out in the head of my engine, the machinist welded a long rod to it and turned it out along with the broken stud. He made it look easy. :)
 
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