• RME Gear & Apparel

Broken stud extraction

Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
I've got two manifold studs that are snapped a good 1/2inch inside the head. Welding a nut is out. I've got control arm crap right in the way that prevents me from getting a drill in there, even with my right angle attachment. I think I might try unbolting the motor mounts and lifting the motor to gain a little clearance, but I'm not optimistic. If that fails, do I have any other steps before I'm forced to pull the head? Anybody have any awesome tricks I don't know about, or a really low profile right angle drill or attachment?
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
Anybody played with either of these?

http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1300-Orbiter-Drilling-Attachment/dp/B0006U66E8/ref=pd_sim_469_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Z7Z12Z8RL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1Q1RMDBW3ZN0JA97C4Z5

http://www.amazon.com/Screwdriver-Attachment-Tight-Fit-00110/dp/B0039Q1FH4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_469_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51Edpc1VSPL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR91%2C160_&refRID=117JTHW1GR0Q6QXQNCP3

The problem with a right angle attachment is it puts the body of the drill up against the head, so even if there's room for the attachment and drill bit there may not be room for the drill itself. I see some 105 degree adapters but they're intended for driving fasteners, not drilling, they don't look sturdy at all.

Don't mind me, I'm going to set here and keep surfing Google and thinking out loud. Feel free to butt in any time. :D
 
Last edited:
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
The other problem with a right angle attachment is all the low profile ones are designed for a 1/4" hex. They're not a regular drill chuck, which I'll need. Bugger!
 
DAA

DAA

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
West Bountiful, UT
Would a right angle air drill fit? I have one. It's an air hog and slow but has worked for me in tight spaces.

- DAA
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
DAA said:
Would a right angle air drill fit? I have one. It's an air hog and slow but has worked for me in tight spaces.

- DAA
Click to expand...

DAA said:
Would a flex attachment on a Dremel with the limited drill bit size help? I have one of those too.

-DAA
Click to expand...

I've got four inches between the bitchiest of the two holes and the control arm mount. I can maybe buy one or two more if I jack up the motor, I'll see in the morning. I don't have enough compressor to run an air drill though.

I'm looking real hard at those flex attachments for a dremel or drill. I'm wondering if I put a carbide ball on my dremel if I can dish the face of the broken studs enough that an extractor on a small ratchet can get a bite.

thefirstzukman said:
That sucks Kevin, were the bolts just missing and you saw them stuck in the head or did they break from trying to pull them?
Click to expand...

Warped exhaust manifold is my theory. The nuts and broken studs were still sitting in the manifold, but they fell right out when I looked at them with a wrench.
 
thefirstzukman

thefirstzukman

Finding Utah
Supporting Member
Location
SPANISH FORK, UTAH
There is a pretty good chance they will just turn out if you can put some pressure on them. I would get some spray lube in the holes and let it sit for a few hours and see if a small regular screwdriver will get them moving. I would guess I have pulled 50 plus bolts out of toyotas that were just like that, my favorite tool in my box was a left hand drill bit, they would turn right out. Pretty common on the toys, they warp and break bolts but the bolts still move in the hole.. most the time the reason the bolt is so deep is they turn in all by themselves from the vibrations.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
thefirstzukman said:
There is a pretty good chance they will just turn out if you can put some pressure on them. I would get some spray lube in the holes and let it sit for a few hours and see if a small regular screwdriver will get them moving. I would guess I have pulled 50 plus bolts out of toyotas that were just like that, my favorite tool in my box was a left hand drill bit, they would turn right out. Pretty common on the toys, they warp and break bolts but the bolts still move in the hole.. most the time the reason the bolt is so deep is they turn in all by themselves from the vibrations.
Click to expand...

I hope you're right. They're soaked in PB Blast and I'll give them a stern talking to in the morning and we'll see what happens. It'd be super neat if I can back them out by hand.
 
Kevin B.

Kevin B.

Not often wrong. Never quite right.
Moderator
Location
Stinkwater
thefirstzukman said:
Any luck on these?
Click to expand...

Nope. I tried a couple different things but the two that snapped inside the head were more than I felt like dealing with. I had it towed to a shop this morning, the guy sounded real confident he could get them without pulling the head but he hadn't looked at it yet and I don't think he fully understood what he was getting into. He hasn't called back yet, which probably means I'm right. :D
 
UNSTUCK

UNSTUCK

But stuck more often.
Two options:

Sell it and start over.

Bring it over here and we'll weld the manifold right to the head.
 
ricsrx

ricsrx

Well-Known Member
I Lean said:
Have you mastered welding steel to aluminum yet? That's a skill I'd love to learn. :p
Click to expand...

i have tried it! actually i grabbed an aluminum rod when i was TIG ing SS, I was like... what the hell.. Im I really that blind..I suck at it... :)
 
Trate D

Trate D

Well-Known Member
Before I would resort to pulling the head off. If you have half an inch of usable thread why not us a locking header bolt instead of a stud and run it till you want/can pull the head?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top