sixstringsteve
Well-Known Member
- Location
- UT
I'm demo'ing an ARB fridge at the moment, and I didn't realize how much I'd have to upgrade my rig to properly run it. It's not a big deal, just more than I had anticipated. First off, the rear 12v cigarette port doesn't have very beefy wires going to it at all. ARB mentioned that I'd be lucky to get an entire night with the fridge on before blowing a fuse or triggering the low voltage cutoff.
So I installed the ARB wiring kit that wires the 12v adapter straight to the battery. If the kit had been 6" shorter it wouldn't have reached, but thankfully it was just long enough. Now I have a direct 12v power outlet in the back, tied directly to the battery (with a 15A fuse).
A few weeks ago my battery started acting up. If I left the interior lights on for more than 20 min it would drain the battery. I'd expect that after an entire night of the lights being on, but not after 20 min. I think the battery is on its way out. So I need to replace my battery regardless. In doing some research, I found that most people aren't getting more than a single night's use of the fridge with a stock battery. I know guys with dual battery setups have been known for going 5+ days with a fridge without starting the rig. That doesn't sound like a possibility with my stock battery.
I had incorrectly assumed that one could just buy a fridge, hook it to the stock 12v plug and get 5+ days of use out of it without draining the battery. Now I know better.
So... I looked into dual batteries. Honestly, i don't want to run dual batteries. It's expensive, it's a bit more involved, and it's not what I was looking for. I think they're a great solution for a lot of people, but in the end I decided on a beefcake single battery. It's a Die Hard Marine deep cycle group 31. This thing is a tank. It probably weighs more than a dual battery setup at 75lbs! Anyway, it has double the cold cranking amps that the stock battery had, so I should be fine to use the fridge on my upcoming trips.
The battery is wider than stock, so I had to trim my plastic tray a bit. I'm trying to decide the best way to tie it down. With all that weight, I surely don't want it moving at all. We'll see what I do there.
So I installed the ARB wiring kit that wires the 12v adapter straight to the battery. If the kit had been 6" shorter it wouldn't have reached, but thankfully it was just long enough. Now I have a direct 12v power outlet in the back, tied directly to the battery (with a 15A fuse).
A few weeks ago my battery started acting up. If I left the interior lights on for more than 20 min it would drain the battery. I'd expect that after an entire night of the lights being on, but not after 20 min. I think the battery is on its way out. So I need to replace my battery regardless. In doing some research, I found that most people aren't getting more than a single night's use of the fridge with a stock battery. I know guys with dual battery setups have been known for going 5+ days with a fridge without starting the rig. That doesn't sound like a possibility with my stock battery.
I had incorrectly assumed that one could just buy a fridge, hook it to the stock 12v plug and get 5+ days of use out of it without draining the battery. Now I know better.
So... I looked into dual batteries. Honestly, i don't want to run dual batteries. It's expensive, it's a bit more involved, and it's not what I was looking for. I think they're a great solution for a lot of people, but in the end I decided on a beefcake single battery. It's a Die Hard Marine deep cycle group 31. This thing is a tank. It probably weighs more than a dual battery setup at 75lbs! Anyway, it has double the cold cranking amps that the stock battery had, so I should be fine to use the fridge on my upcoming trips.
The battery is wider than stock, so I had to trim my plastic tray a bit. I'm trying to decide the best way to tie it down. With all that weight, I surely don't want it moving at all. We'll see what I do there.
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