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Build Thread: Sixstringsteve's 2005 4Runner Lorenzo

airmanwilliams

airmanwilliams

Well-Known Member
Location
Provo, Utah
I have all of the leds in that kit right now. If you want to take a look at them and try them out you are more than welcome to. Let me know. I can come to your place or I live just west of the utah valley regional hospital.
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I'm all for supporting local companies. We'll have to set something up one of these nights and do some testing. Thanks Brandon.
 
airmanwilliams

airmanwilliams

Well-Known Member
Location
Provo, Utah
sixstringsteve said:
I'm all for supporting local companies. We'll have to set something up one of these nights and do some testing. Thanks Brandon.
Click to expand...

Anytime. I'll tell you this also, I will not charge near what they do for them! I love helping out with swapping people to leds, not much of a business but a hobby. Right now I am changing things over in our home and my parents home to leds and have a meeting with a hospital administrator to hopefully get some businesses on board to save money electricity. What can I say, I am a Suzuki owner and love saving anywhere I can and helping others do it also.
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I'm really liking this look, and I think I'll go for a similar lift (2.5/1.5" Daystar Spacers). He's running 265/70/17s. I still have to research if the stock UCAs can be properly aligned with this setup.

IndianCampCreek3_zps854339fa.jpg

He's also got 1.25" wheel spacers, and while I've ran spacers on almost every vehicle, I'd rather not on this one. I'd rather have properly backspaced wheels. Those black 5th gen 4runner wheels look great though.


Alignment notes from here:

Somewhere around the 3" lift threshold some have trouble getting adequate caster. Most get close enough that it drives fine.

-IMHO what you want is a touch of negative camber (which should be easy) and fairly equal (R to L). I consider it to be ok if the L side number is a hair closer to zero than the right. It'll equal out with the drivers weight and full fuel, speaking of that get it aligned with around 1/2 a tank.

-The toe-in should not be near zero even though that's "within spec". It needs a touch of toe-in for stability.

-The caster should be the highest positive value (within spec) they can achieve AND be equal. So, what will happen is they'll need to determine which side can achieve the least amount of positive caster and then match the other side to it.

​



And another post from that thread:

Probably the most important setting post-lift is caster. A lot of chain shops will just slap their alignment gear on the vehicle, make the numbers equal and call it aligned. If they do not first max out the caster and get it as close to the factory setting of 3-3.5 then the vehicle will drive poorly. My first alignment after installing my lift was done by a chain shop and the result was horrible. I even took it back and asked them to max out the caster, to which they showed me they were only able to get it to 1.3. I drove it this way for a year and finally took it to a specialty wheel and alignment shop. I told them I wanted the caster maxed out, as close to 3.5 as they can get it. They ended up able to get 3.1 and the truck handles like its on train tracks. Super stable and easy to drive. Moral of the story, not all alignment shops are equal and the foundation to a stable lifted truck is MAX CASTER!!​
 
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airmanwilliams

airmanwilliams

Well-Known Member
Location
Provo, Utah
sixstringsteve said:
I'm really liking this look, and I think I'll go for a similar lift (2.5/1.5" Daystar Spacers). I still have to research if the stock UCAs can be properly aligned with this setup.

View attachment 93661

He's also got 1.25" wheel spacers, and while I've ran spacers on almost every vehicle, I'd rather not on this one. I'd rather have properly backspaced wheels. Those black 5th gen 4runner wheels look great though.


Alignment notes from here:

Somewhere around the 3" lift threshold some have trouble getting adequate caster. Most get close enough that it drives fine.

-IMHO what you want is a touch of negative camber (which should be easy) and fairly equal (R to L). I consider it to be ok if the L side number is a hair closer to zero than the right. It'll equal out with the drivers weight and full fuel, speaking of that get it aligned with around 1/2 a tank.

-The toe-in should not be near zero even though that's "within spec". It needs a touch of toe-in for stability.

-The caster should be the highest positive value (within spec) they can achieve AND be equal. So, what will happen is they'll need to determine which side can achieve the least amount of positive caster and then match the other side to it.

​
Click to expand...


That is a beautiful stance and rig. Add a very tight and close to body plate bumper with 20-30" light bar and winch, that rack setup from the video you posted, helton shower(with a flg holder on rack so you can attach shower), low profile drawers in back, overhead dvd player (to keep son occupied), and a few other odds and ends and that would be my dream 4runner if I had that.

The mild stance that has looks great.
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I shot demello an email and it appears that they'll make their front bumpers out of aluminum for $350 more. That's pretty tempting.
 
Jesser04

Jesser04

Well-Known Member
Location
Kaysville Utah
sixstringsteve said:
I'm really liking this look, and I think I'll go for a similar lift (2.5/1.5" Daystar Spacers). He's running 265/70/17s. I still have to research if the stock UCAs can be properly aligned with this setup.

View attachment 93661

He's also got 1.25" wheel spacers, and while I've ran spacers on almost every vehicle, I'd rather not on this one. I'd rather have properly backspaced wheels. Those black 5th gen 4runner wheels look great though.


Alignment notes from here:

Somewhere around the 3" lift threshold some have trouble getting adequate caster. Most get close enough that it drives fine.

-IMHO what you want is a touch of negative camber (which should be easy) and fairly equal (R to L). I consider it to be ok if the L side number is a hair closer to zero than the right. It'll equal out with the drivers weight and full fuel, speaking of that get it aligned with around 1/2 a tank.

-The toe-in should not be near zero even though that's "within spec". It needs a touch of toe-in for stability.

-The caster should be the highest positive value (within spec) they can achieve AND be equal. So, what will happen is they'll need to determine which side can achieve the least amount of positive caster and then match the other side to it.

​



And another post from that thread:
Probably the most important setting post-lift is caster. A lot of chain shops will just slap their alignment gear on the vehicle, make the numbers equal and call it aligned. If they do not first max out the caster and get it as close to the factory setting of 3-3.5 then the vehicle will drive poorly. My first alignment after installing my lift was done by a chain shop and the result was horrible. I even took it back and asked them to max out the caster, to which they showed me they were only able to get it to 1.3. I drove it this way for a year and finally took it to a specialty wheel and alignment shop. I told them I wanted the caster maxed out, as close to 3.5 as they can get it. They ended up able to get 3.1 and the truck handles like its on train tracks. Super stable and easy to drive. Moral of the story, not all alignment shops are equal and the foundation to a stable lifted truck is MAX CASTER!!​
Click to expand...
This is very similar to the set up on ours. I have 265/75R16 the one thing I would do differently is order a 1" spacer from cornfed for the rear. It still has some rake in it that I'm not to fond. Putting a bumper on it will only make it worse. It drives great with the spacers make sure you take the time to put the on carefully or get hub centric ones.
 
D

Deleted member 12904

Guest
sixstringsteve said:
It's already got the overhead DVD player, but I wish it didn't. If I had kids it would probably be a different story.
Click to expand...

No it wouldn't. My kids wont watch dvd's in the car anymore. Its all about the ipads. Every time we go on a road trip its "Dad will you turn on the internet so I can watch a movie?"
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
Last edited:
jentzschman

jentzschman

Well-Known Member
Location
Sandy, Utah
I personally like the first and third build. Over all though I would think the third build would be a better choice as I love the design and the look, not to mention the ability to fit two sleeping pads side-by-side.
 
D

dieslcruisrhead

Registered User
Location
Park City & Heber City Utah
Steve, awesome.. I have a gen 4 also same year and color and everything. First post couldn't have been better or more accurate... mine is sport edition with cloth otherwise identical. I go back and forth on whether I would have preferred leather / limited... Here are photos.. http://andreshoumatoff.smugmug.com/Cars/2005-4Runner-V8/

Still looks and runs as I bought it, aka like a brand new car even now at 110k. Looked heavily at modifying it.. But honestly super proud I've left it completely stock and have been able to keep it that way. Only thing I did was a $40 Pro Comp 1" rubber level puck up front to get the nose out of the sand.

Super happy for all of the same / right reasons.. Weatherte h is great in the rear. I went factory rubber mats inside. They are only OK..

Good luck/ subscribed!

Cheers, Andre

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
sixstringsteve

sixstringsteve

Well-Known Member
Location
UT
I would totally trade if yours had the nav and jbl sound system and 10k fewer miles. I'd rather have cloth seats and no sunroof, but I'm loving the vehicle. I need some sort of lift after this weekend. I don't need ground clearance, but the springs are too soft and bottom our too easily.
 
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