TurboMinivan
Still plays with cars
- Location
- Lehi, UT
Yeah, I hear about this problem more frequently with exhaust manifolds than with turbo flanges. Still, I would have felt horrible had I not said anything and you ended up snapping your bolts.
Building TURBO system for YJ
- Thread starter MikeGyver
- Start date
Yeah, I hear about this problem more frequently with exhaust manifolds than with turbo flanges. Still, I would have felt horrible had I not said anything and you ended up snapping your bolts.
Ok, I finished the mounting bracket for the turbo and most of the turbo outlet adapter pipe.
How to mount the turblo is something I put a lot of though into and I think this will work out well. The weight of the turbo needs to be supported (by something other than the exhaust piping) since it's cantilevered out in front of the engine and the Jeep routinely experiences extreme vibrations and jolts. The mount is made out of 5/8" stainless round bar and 1/4" stainless plate and is triangulated to some of the few points I had that would work. I can stand on the mount and jump up and down and it seems to remain completely rigid.
On this part the bar goes through the gusseted plate and presses up against the head so it cannot flex inward.
How to mount the turblo is something I put a lot of though into and I think this will work out well. The weight of the turbo needs to be supported (by something other than the exhaust piping) since it's cantilevered out in front of the engine and the Jeep routinely experiences extreme vibrations and jolts. The mount is made out of 5/8" stainless round bar and 1/4" stainless plate and is triangulated to some of the few points I had that would work. I can stand on the mount and jump up and down and it seems to remain completely rigid.
On this part the bar goes through the gusseted plate and presses up against the head so it cannot flex inward.
- Location
- West Jordan
Ha ha!
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
This is true, because the sudden decrease in drag would free up so much raw horsepower that your motor would accelerate with wild abandon, and your pistons would translate up to heaven as the white hot super metal gods they have always dreamed of becoming. I think.
Well I've got er running on 2-3 psi. :greg:
I had the wastegate initially modded to 5-6 psi. I added a spring on the actuator rod that opposes the internal spring thus reducing the amount of boost needed to move the rod. The downside is that you lose some travel, but it got the boost down to 2-3psi so it worked out well. I can just thread in the rod end a few turns to increase the boost up to ~7psi (or more by reducing the spring preload).
Boost started building very seamlessly off idle at 1500rpm, and was 3psi by 2000rpm, and will probably be at a full 7psi by round 3000rpm I'm guessing. This is about perfect since I only ever rev the motor to 4500rpm since it hates revving.
I'm getting my MSD BTM ignition box from a buddy soon which will pull timing with boost, then I'll just need an FMU for fueling. I'm also going to put a temp gauge in the intake pipe and see what the IAT's are and decide if methanol/water injection is worth it.
Had to get a little creative to make the turbo oil drain work well enough for a Jeep that see's extreme tilt angles, since the exhaust pipe was blocking access to the oilpan.
Hardline section and barbs for the hose section.
Oil returning to the high spot on the bottom of the oilpan (forward of the sump).
Water cooling lines hooked up too.
I had the wastegate initially modded to 5-6 psi. I added a spring on the actuator rod that opposes the internal spring thus reducing the amount of boost needed to move the rod. The downside is that you lose some travel, but it got the boost down to 2-3psi so it worked out well. I can just thread in the rod end a few turns to increase the boost up to ~7psi (or more by reducing the spring preload).
Boost started building very seamlessly off idle at 1500rpm, and was 3psi by 2000rpm, and will probably be at a full 7psi by round 3000rpm I'm guessing. This is about perfect since I only ever rev the motor to 4500rpm since it hates revving.
I'm getting my MSD BTM ignition box from a buddy soon which will pull timing with boost, then I'll just need an FMU for fueling. I'm also going to put a temp gauge in the intake pipe and see what the IAT's are and decide if methanol/water injection is worth it.
Had to get a little creative to make the turbo oil drain work well enough for a Jeep that see's extreme tilt angles, since the exhaust pipe was blocking access to the oilpan.
Hardline section and barbs for the hose section.
Oil returning to the high spot on the bottom of the oilpan (forward of the sump).
Water cooling lines hooked up too.
Last edited:
- Location
- Grantsville, Utah
I'm excited to hear it run, and your reports on the driveability.
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
Well I've got er running on 2-3 psi. :greg:
I had the wastegate initially modded to 5-6 psi. I added a spring on the actuator rod that opposes the internal spring thus reducing the amount of boost needed to move the rod. The downside is that you lose some travel, but it got the boost down to 2-3psi so it worked out well. I can just thread in the rod end a few turns to increase the boost up to ~7psi (or more by reducing the spring preload).
Boost started building very seamlessly off idle at 1500rpm, and was 3psi by 2000rpm, and will probably be at a full 7psi by round 3000rpm I'm guessing. This is about perfect since I only ever rev the motor to 4500rpm since it hates revving.
I'm getting my MSD BTM ignition box from a buddy soon which will pull timing with boost, then I'll just need an FMU for fueling. I'm also going to put a temp gauge in the intake pipe and see what the IAT's are and decide if methanol/water injection is worth it.
Had to get a little creative to make the turbo oil drain work well enough for a Jeep that see's extreme tilt angles, since the exhaust pipe was blocking access to the oilpan.
Water cooling lines hooked up too.
Very nice!
Did you have much trouble getting your torch on the under side of this fitting to weld?
muleskinner
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Enoch, UT
Never tried that, I'll give it a go! Do you need to raise your argon pressure when you do that?
Rarely... If possible, it helps to orient the part directly below the torch since argon is over 2x heavier than air.
I've welded deep inside joints before with the tungsten sticking out 1.5 inches; the argon doesn't really have anywhere to go except further into the joint.
I've welded deep inside joints before with the tungsten sticking out 1.5 inches; the argon doesn't really have anywhere to go except further into the joint.
- Location
- Grand Junction, CO
Congrats on getting up and running! Sounds like the boost comes on right about where planned, very cool! Love seeing that downpipe with a little blueing on it from heat!
RogueJeepr
Here!
- Location
- Utah
There's always nitrous.
RogueJeepr
Here!
- Location
- Utah
I know. Just giving ya some shit.
We had our 2.5 YJ for about 10yrs before getting a 4.0xj . Sometimes I wish I would have gone v8 .....so the snowball continues.
Top notch work on the turbo. Looks great.
We had our 2.5 YJ for about 10yrs before getting a 4.0xj . Sometimes I wish I would have gone v8 .....so the snowball continues.
Top notch work on the turbo. Looks great.
I second that, I totally agree with that last post. Your work looks good, but since hp is an addiction, you may as well just start with a thousand horse turbo v8 in a capable chassis, which is exactly what I finally started doing.
Finish this one, use it to showcase your skills, and make money doing the same work for others. There's high demand for high quality results, and it pays very well.
Finish this one, use it to showcase your skills, and make money doing the same work for others. There's high demand for high quality results, and it pays very well.