Changing a 4runner timing chain
- Thread starter JJJZJ
- Start date
Timming
I did one on my friends 90 4runner. It takes awhile because you have to take the radiator out, remove the alternator, move the power steering and the air conditioning. Once all that' out of the way, the timming chain is pretty simple. I would recommend using a strap or chain wrench to loosen the pulley bolt. We tried the wrench in the bolt-crank method, but just broke lots of sockets.
I have also heard that you can get a stronger chain and guides that will never need to be changed, well, they will last much longer than the stock one.
I did one on my friends 90 4runner. It takes awhile because you have to take the radiator out, remove the alternator, move the power steering and the air conditioning. Once all that' out of the way, the timming chain is pretty simple. I would recommend using a strap or chain wrench to loosen the pulley bolt. We tried the wrench in the bolt-crank method, but just broke lots of sockets.
I have also heard that you can get a stronger chain and guides that will never need to be changed, well, they will last much longer than the stock one.
slamurai said:
Yup, metal-backed timing chain guides will make life easier in the future, when you don't have to worry about broken guides. Plus, the HD kit is about the same price as buying a cheapo from a local parts house.
Get a Factory Service Manual to follow when you're doing it. It's worth the investment.
look around while you're in there
I suggest you take the time to check your cam and crank seals, oil and water pump while you're in there.
Nothing is worse than having to take it all apart again because soemthing else goes out. In our case my friend must have nicked the crank seal when he was checking the oil pump, so we did it all over again. Just when you thought it was over..............
It still works out cheaper than taking it to a "professional".
I suggest you take the time to check your cam and crank seals, oil and water pump while you're in there.
Nothing is worse than having to take it all apart again because soemthing else goes out. In our case my friend must have nicked the crank seal when he was checking the oil pump, so we did it all over again. Just when you thought it was over..............
It still works out cheaper than taking it to a "professional".
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Some tips I picked up while doing mine: Use a cardboard template to stick the timing cover bolts in as you remove them so you can remember where they all go, since there are several different sizes/lengths. Be sure to get all the bolts out, since some are removed from the back of the cover, and there's the one covered in a pool of oil. You can also use paper cups to hold hardware for each of the items you remove, such as p.s. pump, alternator, a/c, etc.
I was advised against the steel reinforced guides. As the chain stretches beyond the limits of the tensioner, it breaks the plastic guides and you hear the infamous rattling sound. With the metal guides, you won't be aware your chain is worn out until it breaks, and your timing cover and valvetrain go with it. If you really want to bullet-proof the timing, convert to a double-row chain like on the 22r. This costs more, but might be worth it if you plan on putting a lot of miles on.
You can do it without removing the head or oil pan, but I chose to remove the pan to make it a bit easier and to remove all the pieces of broken guides.
Finally, get a good timing set. Cheap autozone sets probably won't last very long compared to a Toyota or high quality aftermarket set like from LC engineering or DOA Racing.
I was advised against the steel reinforced guides. As the chain stretches beyond the limits of the tensioner, it breaks the plastic guides and you hear the infamous rattling sound. With the metal guides, you won't be aware your chain is worn out until it breaks, and your timing cover and valvetrain go with it. If you really want to bullet-proof the timing, convert to a double-row chain like on the 22r. This costs more, but might be worth it if you plan on putting a lot of miles on.
You can do it without removing the head or oil pan, but I chose to remove the pan to make it a bit easier and to remove all the pieces of broken guides.
Finally, get a good timing set. Cheap autozone sets probably won't last very long compared to a Toyota or high quality aftermarket set like from LC engineering or DOA Racing.
Timing Chain
I've replaced 5 myself on different rigs, follow the advice here from slamurai and suv. Also, I have never removed the head when changing a timing chain, but it is a good idea to drop the oil pan. That way you can clean out all of the pieces from the old guides, and it makes putting the timing cover back on much easier.
Make sure you check the condition of the inside of the timing cover also. If the chain was loose for a while it may be close to wearing a hole through the cover.
The hidden bolts are the ones that get you, so if the cover doesn't move easily keep looking for more bolts. There's a pretty decent writeup here: Timing Chain Replacement
The last one I did I used the metal-backed guides. If you keep track and change it within 70K to 80K miles it's highly unlikely that your chain is going to snap. You'll hear it if it really gets loose.
I've replaced 5 myself on different rigs, follow the advice here from slamurai and suv. Also, I have never removed the head when changing a timing chain, but it is a good idea to drop the oil pan. That way you can clean out all of the pieces from the old guides, and it makes putting the timing cover back on much easier.
Make sure you check the condition of the inside of the timing cover also. If the chain was loose for a while it may be close to wearing a hole through the cover.
The hidden bolts are the ones that get you, so if the cover doesn't move easily keep looking for more bolts. There's a pretty decent writeup here: Timing Chain Replacement
The last one I did I used the metal-backed guides. If you keep track and change it within 70K to 80K miles it's highly unlikely that your chain is going to snap. You'll hear it if it really gets loose.
dieslcruserhead
Registered User
- Location
- Park City
Never use the plastic guided ones, they are such a crappy design it's not even funny. Here are the million and one pieces I found in my oil pan, I also very much so recommend removing it.
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dieslcruserhead
Registered User
- Location
- Park City
dieslcruserhead said:
Here's the same photo-thread I posted on Pirate. You'll see most poeple 'concur' about whether or not to use the plastic guides. Order the metal kit well worth it, even if you plan to sell the rig (as I did) it's still a cruel and pitiful affliction for the new owner. Sorry John :flipoff2: (I wish we had one of those, but then again this is Utah!
(boy I'm funny tonight)... ...not