cherokee lift
- Thread starter biggie
- Start date
Zombie
Random Dead Guy
- Location
- Sandy Utah
If you haven't yet, a slip yoke eliminator on the rear of the Tcase, and a custom rear shaft. Your front shaft ***might*** be ok, but you should think about having it lengthened. Also at that height, think seriously about longarms in the front.
I would talk to Jeepin Joe or Wayne Hartwig about a longarm kit, or build your own if you can.
I would talk to Jeepin Joe or Wayne Hartwig about a longarm kit, or build your own if you can.
xjshorty21
Buckle Up And Shut Up
- Location
- Sandy
just like zombie said but if you havent replaced your track bar , brake lines , and all and make sure your shims on the rear are right cause if not your driveline will vibrate , i am up 7.5 with out SYE and havent replace my front driveline , but my front is holding me up and the SYE is must thats next on my things to do and mine is a DD and if you dont have enought for the driveline after you buy the SYE you can always use your front and you might need to look at your pitman arm too because it might be too much on the drop link so you might have bump steering
Jeremy
total tacoma points: 162
- Location
- MAGNA, land of chewy brown water
if you are not a fabber, and cant spend a few thousand on a long arm set up. drop brackets are a reasonably priced option. i ran 7.5" coils with drop brackets it worked very well, at nearly half the cost of a long arm set up.
When I lifted to 7" it brought with it tons of issues. I lowered it to 6" and still had many more issues than when it was at 4".
I definitely recommend a SYE kit and custom rear drive shaft (Tom Wood). This will allow you to ditch the TC lowering kit, too, which places too much stress on the motor mounts, not to mention that it defeats the purpose of a lift. Consider installing a mid '90s ZJ pitman arm (provides 1" drop).
RE drop brackets w/ support braces will greatly improve driveability and help save the control arm bushings, because they position the control arms closer to stock angles. Hitting even small holes or other road imperfections with high-angled control arms will jolt the hell out of your rig. If you don't already have adjustable control arms, then you may want to weigh this option against long arms.
You might want to consider something like Currie's steering set up, which provides better operating angles than stock. 6" of lift on an XJ seems to be the threshold where you start running into more serious issues, especially with caster angle and front drive shaft vibrations. That's one of several reasons why I recommend not going any higher than 5.5". If you need to clear 33" tires, just trim the fenders.
I definitely recommend a SYE kit and custom rear drive shaft (Tom Wood). This will allow you to ditch the TC lowering kit, too, which places too much stress on the motor mounts, not to mention that it defeats the purpose of a lift. Consider installing a mid '90s ZJ pitman arm (provides 1" drop).
RE drop brackets w/ support braces will greatly improve driveability and help save the control arm bushings, because they position the control arms closer to stock angles. Hitting even small holes or other road imperfections with high-angled control arms will jolt the hell out of your rig. If you don't already have adjustable control arms, then you may want to weigh this option against long arms.
You might want to consider something like Currie's steering set up, which provides better operating angles than stock. 6" of lift on an XJ seems to be the threshold where you start running into more serious issues, especially with caster angle and front drive shaft vibrations. That's one of several reasons why I recommend not going any higher than 5.5". If you need to clear 33" tires, just trim the fenders.
Brett
Meat-Hippy
- Location
- Salt Lake City Utah
:brett: