Chev Rear Main
- Thread starter drylok
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Get Me wired
got issues?
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I've installed a few. How much info do you want? You can leave the rods connected but if the engine is out go ahead and pull the front cover and main caps. The hardest thing is going to be deciding whether or not to off-set the parting surface of the seal from the caps parting surface. But whatever you decide be sure to put a thin coating of sealer from the seal out and along the back of the bearing cap. Oh and be sure to lube the seal. Just my 2 cents. Need more details just holler, the RME community is a very diverse and skillful bunch.
gm
I'll take any info you have. I am pretty sure that the seal is leaking but I hope that it is just the pan gasket. The motor only has about 5000 miles on it, but it sits quite a bit. I have only been putting about 1500 miles a year on it, it is mainly used for hunting and camping. I cost to much to drive the pig, especially right now with gas prices. Averages about 8 mpg, 4mpg if I get my foot into it.
I have heard that it is better to offset the seal in reference to the main cap to block mating surfaces. If you leave the rods connected to the crank, is it fairly easy to slide the crank, rods, and pistons assembly upward enough to get the rear seal out?
To remove the front cover, do you need to pull the balancer? I would have to find the right puller for the balancer so I don't hose it up and have to buy a new one.
What type of sealer do you use on the surface between the seal housing and the bearing cap, and along the back side of the seal and cap?
Anything else would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
I'll take any info you have. I am pretty sure that the seal is leaking but I hope that it is just the pan gasket. The motor only has about 5000 miles on it, but it sits quite a bit. I have only been putting about 1500 miles a year on it, it is mainly used for hunting and camping. I cost to much to drive the pig, especially right now with gas prices. Averages about 8 mpg, 4mpg if I get my foot into it.
I have heard that it is better to offset the seal in reference to the main cap to block mating surfaces. If you leave the rods connected to the crank, is it fairly easy to slide the crank, rods, and pistons assembly upward enough to get the rear seal out?
To remove the front cover, do you need to pull the balancer? I would have to find the right puller for the balancer so I don't hose it up and have to buy a new one.
What type of sealer do you use on the surface between the seal housing and the bearing cap, and along the back side of the seal and cap?
Anything else would be appreciated.
Thanks
Mike
Get Me wired
got issues?
- Location
- I think you know
If your just pulling the engine to fix oil leaks and you haven't tried it already, I would dump some seal conditioner (engine oil stop leak) in it. Then give it a week or two running it from time to time and see if it doesn't stop.
I wouldn't say its fairly easy to slide the crank, rods and pistons upward but its easier than trying to line up 8 rods on reassembly without damaging any bearing surfaces. You'll want to have a pretty good pry bar and be careful wear you pry.
You'll need a harmonic balancer puller, they are $14.99 at the zone.
You could use any sealer, the key is not to use to much. The two surfaces and machined as flat as possible and to get the proper bearing crush you don't want to create an air gap. The factory use something similar to Permatex #1 but I would use something like hylomar.
Something else that will help is to use weather strip adheasive or gasket contact cement to secure the two rubber end peices of the pan gasket in place. Glue the rear to the main cap and the front one to the cover then put a little bit of sealant on the mating surface.
I can't believe no one else has anything to say about this.
I wouldn't say its fairly easy to slide the crank, rods and pistons upward but its easier than trying to line up 8 rods on reassembly without damaging any bearing surfaces. You'll want to have a pretty good pry bar and be careful wear you pry.
You'll need a harmonic balancer puller, they are $14.99 at the zone.
You could use any sealer, the key is not to use to much. The two surfaces and machined as flat as possible and to get the proper bearing crush you don't want to create an air gap. The factory use something similar to Permatex #1 but I would use something like hylomar.
Something else that will help is to use weather strip adheasive or gasket contact cement to secure the two rubber end peices of the pan gasket in place. Glue the rear to the main cap and the front one to the cover then put a little bit of sealant on the mating surface.
I can't believe no one else has anything to say about this.
RockMonkey
Suddenly Enthusiastic
I'm too stupid to understand this whacky engine stuff. I'm in awe and have nothing productive to add. You da man!
