Clear Paint/Powder Coat

Evolved

Less-Known Member
I have done a lot of online reading with a very mixed bag of results. I believe a lot of the mixed results I have been getting is because this topic comes up a lot in regards to bikes (pedal).

I recently purchased a black JKU to start building and I thought it would look really cool to have the bumpers and sliders done in a clear coat to give it a bare metal look but not rust out. I am trying my best to avoid the blacked out look. I have read a few places that just using a clear coat isn't enough and it will still rust. I have also read that clear powder coat gives it a yellowish look and that it looks bad.

Does anyone have experience with just clear coat over metal (with no primer) or clear powder coat? Long term results good, bad or indifferent? This Jeep will get wheeled and occasionally kiss a rock two, I also need to think about touch up when they do get scratched n stuff. I know paint would be better for touch up because I can get clear in spray can. I guess I could spray the powder coat too if I go that route. <---- Just thinking out loud there.

Thanks!
 

RockChucker

Well-Known Member
Location
Highland
I had a set of wheels clear powder coated. It didn’t adhere super great because it didn’t have a blasted surface to grab on to. I didn’t notice any yellowing. The wheel is dirty, but there are places you can see in the aluminum where the coating is lifting/flaking off. Also don’t mind the massive chunk missing from the bead haha9C3B5728-9289-484B-A672-D0C391CB1700.jpeg
 

xjtony

Well-Known Member
Location
Grantsville, Ut
I just use Krylon satin clear, but I like my stuff kind of rough. Seems to do well on bare metal, but I don't know how it would hold up to something like a daily driver. I plan on leaving the tube bed I'm building for the Power Wagon in clear to make it match the kind of old rusty look of the cab
 

Evolved

Less-Known Member
I decided to change up my google search and started to find things more along the lines of what I was looking for. I did find a hot rod forum discussing this exact topic. There were a few recommendations (that weren’t paint OR powder coat) on the thread but this one caught my eye.

I may order a quart and see how it holds up by coating some scrap and leaving it outside for a few weeks. If it works I’ve already got a quart, if it sucks… we’ll, I’m out $100.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
Touch up is gonna be the hard part with powdercoat clear, but I got an idea for you.


I've been using this stuff for decades and it's pretty neat stuff. It goes on clear. It will stay clear unless it encounters rust/oxidation. It will turn light rust to a purple/black color. It will also PREVENT rust. If you clean the steel really well, it will just look like glossy steel. It runs pretty easy, so apply several very light coats. You can buy it anywhere that sells paint. Walmart, Autozone, Home Depot.
 

zmotorsports

Hardcore Gearhead
Vendor
Location
West Haven, UT
I have used automotive catalyzed urethane clear to cover over bare metal on a few items. It works well due to the chemical adhesion as long as the metal is very clean from any residue. I used windshield cleaner followed by a wax and grease remover to ensure cleanliness. The downside is that there isn't the mechanical adhesion which you usually obtain by sanding, sandblasting, scuffing or other ways of normal prepping for paint.

I wouldn't use anything in an aerosol can if you want it to last just due to the fact that it won't be chemically cured to promote good adhesion.
 
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