Custom hard brake line routing and flaring

theferg

DD for Life
Location
Southern Utah
I'm doing an axle swap on the rear of my Cruiser (putting in a newer Cruiser axle with disc brake rear) and am going to need some custom hard lines ran. Firstly I don't have a brake line bender (I know, they're cheap and can be found all over), but secondly I don't have anything to do the flaring on the ends.

What's the best route here? Get a flaring tool/kit and flare 'em myself? If so, where's a good place to find a good flare tool? My buddy had a flaring tool and it was a cheap POS that sucked.

Or should I just run the axle to a shop somewhere and have them do it for me? How much would something like that run? Only to run and flare the new hard lines. Who can do it?

Also, the lines I need are not going to be the same as the stock lines that are on the axle now.

-Ferg-
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
Just run them yourself...you can buy different lengths from any parts store and if you need to make some different lengths you can rent the flaring tool from Auto Zone and it works just fine...I did my entire buggy...while a brakeline bender is nice, its not necessary...just be careful and take your time...I bet you can do the whole thing for $20-$30 (or even less depending on how much hardline you need, my whole buggy was prolly only $30)...
 
Ferg my little generic flaring tool at HF was only like $7 and works great. If you want to borrow it you are welcome to, I also have that air pump from Cody that I need to get to you as well.... Way easy to do, how come you need new ones, is the pickup on the other side of the axle?

dre
 

theferg

DD for Life
Location
Southern Utah
Cool. Thanks guys. I'll try and to it on my own. Sounds like it won't be too bad. Perhaps I'll just pick up the tool at HF and see how it works. Then if not, rent one from AutoZone.

Dre, the pickup is actually near center on the 80 series rear axle...which could have been worked with, but the old lines kicked up and out and all over the place with the coil and link mounts and after choppin' them all off, the brake lines are hanging out and kicking out all over the place. Be way ugly and crappy to work with them actually (I've seen it done and it looks like crap). Also, one of them is smashed on one side anyway.

Dude, I thought I told you that you couldn't fire up the welder until I rec'd full payment... :eek: :shawn: :rofl: :flipoff: :D J/K

-Ferg-
 
I am imagining that is not your rig otherwise I would say you are my hero for the fastest labor ever. Anywhoo, I see what you are talking about. Normally I am way sceptical about HF junk but in this case it literally is all the same, I did all of mine with it as well and 1+ year easily and not even a single leak. But also make sure you get a good brake line cutter at least I have one one (that you are welcome to as well) and does really nice, clean cuts so that you get good flares. That should be another $5 maybe...

Anywhoo, cool Ferg!
 

RUYellow

Under Construction
Location
Eagle, ID
Just make sure that it is a double flare tool, not just a single flare.

Use a good small pipe cutter, and a tubing bender is cheap.

I bought my double flare tool @ NAPA for $45.00, complete with a deburring tool.
 

RUYellow

Under Construction
Location
Eagle, ID
I don't mean this rude, but here is a write up that someone else did explaining the double flare.

Double flare

If you do a double flare, you bubble it out like in step 6 and then flare it in like in step 7.

A single flare is done like just step 7 and is only 1 layer thick, a weaker fitting.

If you already knew that, then disregard.
 
For what it's worth (not starting anything here) he is using the same style single flare tool that HF sells in those photos so yes you can get a good double flare. Way easy to do and like I said I think it was $6 or $7 or so... For me, I found getting a good cutter was almost more important...
 
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