D60 hi steer arm bolt torque?

jsudar

Well-Known Member
Location
Cedar Hills
What has everybody been torquing the nuts on their hi steer arms to? Mine is a standard 4 bolt Dana 60 knuckle, couldn't afford five bolt knuckles.

100 lb/ft?

Tighten till it snaps and back off a quarter turn?

LMK
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I used the four studs and got some fresh grade 8 bolts. I used two studs on each knuckle and two bolts. I didn't torque them so I don't know, but they've got to be in the 80-100 range.

I've had no issues with them backing off at all. (one of those things I monitor due to having an XJ with crappy steering)
 

jsudar

Well-Known Member
Location
Cedar Hills
I have another question. Those with cross over hi steer-- are you running your drag link in front of or behind your tie rod?

The reason I ask is the right side tie rod end I am using (es2233L) has the hole in it to mount the drag link to, but the direction it's tapered would put my drag link behind the tie rod. I have to drill the taper out anyway to fit a larger TRE on the drag link. Should I taper it backwards to put the drag link in front?
 

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
I ran my drag-link in front of the tie rod to give it as much leverage as I could. I've just attached the tie rod and drag link to the steering arm.

steering_arm_H1_wheel.jpg


steering_arm_H1_wheel_front.jpg



I don't know why what you're describing wouldn't work, though.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
Maybe someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but what is the torque spec for a 1/2" bolt - grade 5, 8 or B7? I believe grade 5 and B7 are very close at 110 ftlbs and a grade 8 is more like 125 ftlbs.

My studs are B7 and I have them at 110. The bottom stocker bolts are at 100.

Originally I had my drag link behind the tie rod (hole closest to the knuckle), but steering was hard in some cases so I moved to the front hole and it sure steers easier. I also had to move the tie rod down to the stock location, because in the hole closest to the knuckle, the tie rod hits the BTF diff cover/truss at full lock either direction.
 

waynehartwig

www.jeeperman.com
Location
Mead, WA
We were having clearance issues on mine, so this is what we ended up doing. Not what we'd planned, but seems to work fine.

Picture299.jpg


Picture280.jpg

Clearance issues with what? And what did you do to correct it? I see a couple of things that could be done to clear something, so I'm just curious what.
 

greenjeep

Cause it's green, duh!
Location
Moab Local!
Getting everything to fit in front of the coil springs and still clear the pitman arm.

Here you can see how close things are
Picture296.jpg

Picture273.jpg


No way to mount the tie rod and drag link to the arm seperately
Picture219.jpg


I think I need a shorter/flatter pitman arm.
 
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