Dana 60 high steer arms-springs or springless?

[Corban_White]

Talk to me about both. What are the pros/cons advantages/disadvantages to both? Also, studs and cone washers or studs and cone nuts? School me.

 

[I Lean]

Springs--easy, common, work just fine.

Springless--harder (initially), should be stronger maybe, and stuff.

Studs and cone washers should be stronger, and are more common for what I've gotten locally than using taper-seat nuts.

When I cared, I was looking for the upper bearing conversion to replace the spring and plastic bushing cuz I liked the idea. I never did find one in time, so I just ran with stock stuff. I never once had any issues with that, so if I were to do it again I'd just stick with the easyness once again.

 

[UNSTUCK]

I've only set up springless one time, and it seemed like getting the tension right was a bit of guess work. I even called the manufacturer who couldn't give me any positive insite on setting them up. End the end it worked out well.

 

[jsudar]

I would vote springless if you are running big tires. The springs work great until you get big heavy tires (37" and up) and then the tires start to over come the spring and you can get death wobble. For 35s and smaller, stay with the springs.

If you do go with the springless, get some that have an adjusting nut so you can tighten up the preload as the bushings wear. Ballistic Fab and Foothill Offroad both have adjustable preload. The kind without an adjustment nut require shims and you have to remove the arm to put new shims in.

 

[Kiel]

I went with the springs on mine, lots of weird designs for the springless to keep the adjustment correct. I just wasn't sure about them, and had heard they are sorta a pain.