Is there a hidden meaning to a dim warning light on a 1990 Toyota truck dash light? When you put on the parking brake the light comes on dark red (normal), and fully on. But when you are driving it comes on very dim. Some Google searches say it may be an indication that the alternator is going bad. Can anyone confirm this? Is this done on purpose by Toyota or just one of those quirks?
dim dash / brake light on a Toyota truck
- Thread starter Rusted
- Start date
KToy
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Herriman, UT
usually its because your brake fluid is low. thats what happens on my 91 toy truck
the batterly light flickers when your alternator goes out.
also maybe your cable is stuck.
the batterly light flickers when your alternator goes out.
also maybe your cable is stuck.
toyotajunk2
Registered User
Can you help me?
I found this thread and I am having similar problems with my 1985 toyota. Something electrical is staying on and draining my battery and I can't figure out what it is. Also when it is running at around 2500 RPMs the Brake and battery light come on till RPMs go below 2500. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I found this thread and I am having similar problems with my 1985 toyota. Something electrical is staying on and draining my battery and I can't figure out what it is. Also when it is running at around 2500 RPMs the Brake and battery light come on till RPMs go below 2500. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
It was a co-workers truck, I will ask him what is up with it now, but I am pretty sure he never changed his alternator.
One trick to figuring out what is draining your battery (I assume it drains over night) is to pull all of the fuses, and see if it drains in a night. Then add one or two fuses back in per night until you get to the one that is causing the problem. Kind of a slow process, but it may help you identify what circuit the problem is on.
My jeep had a battery drain issue. I kind of got lucky because when i pulled all of the fuses it still drained out over night. So I was able to eliminate all of the accessories that were fused. It ended up being caused by mud caked into a turn marker light. Those slow drain problems can take time to figure out.
One trick to figuring out what is draining your battery (I assume it drains over night) is to pull all of the fuses, and see if it drains in a night. Then add one or two fuses back in per night until you get to the one that is causing the problem. Kind of a slow process, but it may help you identify what circuit the problem is on.
My jeep had a battery drain issue. I kind of got lucky because when i pulled all of the fuses it still drained out over night. So I was able to eliminate all of the accessories that were fused. It ended up being caused by mud caked into a turn marker light. Those slow drain problems can take time to figure out.
toyotajunk2
Registered User
I was hoping it was something quick , but I think I might need to try it. I have already disconnected all accessory lights. still drained. So I am at a loss. Maybe this helps. It started after a fuel line blew near the tank.(cracked cause of age and cold) ever since then the battery dies every night! Any more help?
Another way to troubleshoot if you have the equipment is to take off a battery cable, then measure the amount of resistance between the cable and the battery as you add in fuses. You should be able to add in a fuse and not have any resistance added (exept for the circut that keep the time on the clock, or something similar). If you pop in a fuse and the resistance goes up you have somewhat isolated the problem.
When you replace your fuel hose did you pinch an electrical wire? can you think of any electrical wires around the area you replaced the hose on?
When you replace your fuel hose did you pinch an electrical wire? can you think of any electrical wires around the area you replaced the hose on?
toyotajunk2
Registered User
Here is what we found out last night. With the key off there were four fuses that registered power. The dome light. the horn. the brake lights and the EFI. All should have power with the ignition off except the EFI is what we figured. So I think we have narrowed it down to the EFI. We pulled the EFI fuse last night and are letting it sit to see if the battery still drains. If it does not than we have found the problem. If it does than we are way off and it is time to start over. There is a yellow plug on the gas tank. I am wondering if when the gas sprayed all over if it corroded the connections or some other wire. So that is our next step if our assumption is right. Thanks for the help and any other suggestions are welcome.
way2nosty
Registered User
soe EFI Systems have power when the ignition is off to protect the volitile memory. I'm not sure if a 90 toy does, Have you considered it may be a bad battery of voltage regulator, I would check the battery first, if it has a cell the collapses when cold it would account for a battery that drains over night, also voltage regulators and alternators can get carbon tracks that will allow power to drain to ground, which would account for the same. the best place to star is by pulling the hot and ground lead and checking the resistance across them when not connected. anywhere from 100+ ohms is usually good means minimal load. if you see kess then that then disconnect the charge wire at the alternator and check it's resistance to ground, until you can figure out which circuit is causing your load - my money's on the battery.
toyotajunk2
Registered User
Does anyone know for sure if there should be power to EFI when ignition is off? That is something we did not think of. We just assumed it shouldn't have power. I did disconnect everything from the battery and let it sit for two days in the cold. Hooked it back up and started no problem. It holds a charge and is new as of June this past year. So I don't think the battery is the problem. The alternator is new as of September last year. so It is brand new and charges the battery when running. I am pretty sure it is still good. I will see what happens with the EFI when I get off work. But right now I am about stumped. Thanks again for all the help. At least I am starting to narrow it down!
mikeswrangler
Registered User
hey rusted.. try this.. disconect the plug on the master cyl flot lid..
that was my problem the flot was shorting ot in the well of the fluid.. it would come on very dim then it would go off and then it would be bright .. but since I unpluged it everything works good..
I have to et a new cap for it now
that was my problem the flot was shorting ot in the well of the fluid.. it would come on very dim then it would go off and then it would be bright .. but since I unpluged it everything works good..
I have to et a new cap for it now