Do I finally get it?

[BlackDog]

Ultimate DD/Rock Bruiser:

Smalll, 4ruuner, xj, Xploder. etc.
(so I buy XJ)

D44 at least.
(So, I buy 86 Waggy driver drop 44 -$300 and I get a titled Heep, with bad t-case

Coil is better than leaf, but leaf is cheaper to build
( so am looking at Toy/Chev leaf lifts)

Gears Gears Gears.
(so looking at Yukon 4:88 or higher)

Power Power Power;after all we are men, and need Freudian compensation
(so am looking for 258 crank and rods, header yada yada yada)

Anyhting taller than 37's makes for bad DD

( so am kicking around the idear of 35 - 37 Pit Bull Rockers, or BFG Mud TA's)


Ahhh, grasshopper to leaf your XJ, you will need longer frame rails.

Hmmph, some do that, and incorporate them into custom bumper, yes?

Can I do thus for less than $1500?
New gears, new lockright/aussie on one diff or the other,junkyard lift, used tires?


Ideas for JY lift?

 

[Kiel]

#1 Don't start with a van #2 I think it can be done..- the engine will be your limting factor on money, if you can get a cheap engine to fit into your plans your set.

 

[mbryson]

So, let me get this straight. You're going to run 37" tires on a daily driven XJ with leaf suspension and you want to lengthen the "frame" rofl?

Everything can be done. I think you'll have a fair amount of cash involved in strengthening the 'frame' of the XJ, let alone doing the leaf swap, axle swap, etc. It could happen for under $1500, but you'd be doing all the work and making some deals along the way. You're probably looking at at least $600-800 just for tires and if you're lucky wheels. If you want to lock up the D44 you're looking a little more. I guess what I'm trying to say, is recheck your budget and your platform. If you're in Idaho Falls, look up Brent Orton at Logan Glass and check out his rig. It's 'frame' is strengthened and is a very respectable trail rig, he's got the 4.6L stroker and what not. Works for him, but he's got a little more than $1500 wrapped up in mods.

 

[SICK99TJ]

frame... .....xj...... .......

 

[thefirstzukman]

xj = unibody

 

[92XJeeper]

xj = unibody

More accurately called a uniframe

 

[BlackDog]

When I say frame, I assume it is assumed that the reader will interpret that as frame rails that aremolded to the pan as it is a unibody.

Think I have figgered out the solution, drop the XJ like a hot rock, and go get another 3/4 ton extended cab pickup and be done.

4.11 gears, strong axles, and the ability to run 35's with no mods (well a Ford can)

 

[thenag]

When I say frame, I assume it is assumed that the reader will interpret that as frame rails that aremolded to the pan as it is a unibody.

Think I have figgered out the solution, drop the XJ like a hot rock, and go get another 3/4 ton extended cab pickup and be done.

4.11 gears, strong axles, and the ability to run 35's with no mods (well a Ford can)

um the 80-96 ford 3/4 tons had a leaf sprung d44 or d50. the ttb d50 isn't really any stronger than the d44. and ttb is pretty much junk for hard core wheeling

as for their rear ends, up until 85ish the fords had a rear d60 which are pretty much junk for rear ends for full size. after 85ish they had the sterling 10.25 which is better.

if you go gm you can find one with a gm 14 bolt in the rear that will pretty much never break and detroits are cheap for them. if you can get one with a straight d44 up front and want to upgrade to a d60 it is pretty much a bolt in conversion.

i never liked the the TBI in the GM's the ford stuff has it's problems (TFI modules) but when it is working it works well. the GM motors are easier to get parts for and easier to mod.

as far as trannys if you want a stick i think that fords had better options, the np435, BW t18, and the bomb digity ZF-5spd. older gm's you can get the sm465 which is comprable to the np435 and bw t18. for autos, gm's will probably have a TH350 which isn't bad. if you get a ford try to get a C6, the 90ish and newers got a E4OD which had tons of problems especially in the early 90's. my buddy scored a 96 f350 with a c6 in it so the c6's were in production a lot longer than most people think.

tcases you can build a 203/205 doubler for both with out much money, run what is in it until it fails then build up a 203/205 doubler. i spent about $1000 on my doubler setup, including DS mods. (yup $1000 to get 2:1 and 4:1 and twin sticks)

if you go ford seriously look for a 86-96 1 ton that has d60 up front, it will cost you more money up front but i don't know anyone that has done a d60 swap for under $1500. If you get a good deal on an a decent front d60 it will still cost you $800. the 80-86ish ford one tons got a ttb on it.

nathan
-87 bronco with a front d60 a rear gm 14 bolt 203/205 doubler 37 mtr's

 

[benjy]

as for their rear ends, up until 85ish the fords had a rear d60 which are pretty much junk for rear ends

could you explain why a rear 60 would be junk

 

[Meat_]

The older 19spl ones are, but I don't understand his hatred for 30/35 or even 40 spline D60... although a 14 bolt is still the win.

 

[BlackDog]

had an 88 F250 TTb Dana 53 in the front, Sterling 10.25 in the rear.
Limited slip in the ass, and the "bomb diggity" ZF 5 spd.
Wished it would have had the 300 I-6, But was moderately Happy with the EFI 302.
Can be mine again for cheap.
Only Flaw was single cab.
X=cab is an easy fix, and creates a Body lift in the process, which would make the 35's "look" better.....

Had 92 460 yada yada etc. no title, bottom end shot, sold it for parts, and the guy just wanted Drivetrain stuff, which means the cab portion could still be grabbable............

Everything together would be cheaper than building the XJ to its ( by its I mean the TTB Ford) level of Capability, and I would gain a pick up bed, and true 6 passenger seating out of the deal.

Which I need, and which the XJ will do piss poorly at best.