Drive shaft build material

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Well I'm gonna give a shot at making my own drive shafts. I already have a bunch of cores to get the ends and yokes I need, plus the carrier bearing. The question is what kind of tubing is generally acceptable for making the tube section? I have talked to some people about this with mixed answers and they need not answer-_-
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
I've always used thick pipe for mine. They're undoubtedly not perfectly balanced, but they always stand up to the rocks. I'm sure the "right" material is some thin light seamless stuff that will tie itself in a knot the instant it sees a rock. I've never had a problem using thick heavy pipe. :busted:

Tack it all together under the vehicle so you can spin the shaft and see if it's straight or not. Be patient and you can get it straight and mostly balanced.
 

Meat_

Banned
Location
Lehi
I'm sure that John at Gaylon's would sell you some. I know you can get .120, not sure if you can get .250 or not. It is different than regular tube in that it can give (twist) without hurting it, thus acting as a shock absorber for the power train.
 

Bucking Bronco

................
Location
Layton
When I did the one on my bronco I just went to six states and they sold me just the tube. It was like 1.50 a foot but it was just standard tube something like .090 wall.
 

Caleb

Well-Known Member
Location
Riverton
A lot of d-line shops won't go thicker than .120. HD is usually .120 and standard is usually .090 or thinner. If it were me I'd probably use some .120 wall DOM.
 

lincolnlock

Registered User
Location
Seattle, WA
Just use 1/4" wall. .250 Then you won't have to worry about hitting your drive shafts EVER. Ok maybe just the yokes hitting rocks. You won't be sorry. Or if your kinda cheap use schedule 80 pipe.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
I always use 2" ish .120 DOM. Never had a problem yet. :)

Kinda nice because you can sleeve it with 1.75 and still be really balanced.
 

notajeep

Just me
Location
Logan
Mine, on the buggy is .120 wall. On the toyota, for the long and exposed rear, I had six states make me a .250 wall one and so far it is holding up great.
 
i use 1/4 wall 2 1/2 DOM, found a 4' piece at the scrap yard. holds up great, its probally a little over kill but my front is song long because of the tranney ( 700r/231 ) i allways would bend .120 walled 2'' shaft's. next set i make will be square shafts front and rear, jason.
 

GI'sCHICK

Active Member
Location
Layton, UT
Ian on extreme4x4 built some out of square tube that would slide in and out onto itself and was only like 3/16 inch thick... it held up to some pretty good beating by the two.... and the best part was it wasn't balanced and didn't vibrate like crazy....
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Thanks guys and gals, These are going with some 1410's so the tube is a little larger. I seperated one of my cores today to get the ends off, so far so good, now to find some thick tubing, probably .250 if not .120
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
WJ ZUK, what did you get the cores off of that had 1410 yokes?

They are all from newer ford superduty rears. I have 2 complete rear shafts with carrier bearings to make my front and one regular rear for mine. I have about 60 bucks in my cores but it's around 10 yokes so I will have spares so I don't feel too bad;)
 

Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
Pipe..... Way to cut corners. Listen to Meat and go see Gaylon.

Well after pricing out what tubing will be pipe is looking better and better lol. They want over 2 bucks a foot for .156 3.5 inch diameter. I will keep shoping around
 

RockMonkey

Suddenly Enthusiastic
Well after pricing out what tubing will be pipe is looking better and better lol. They want over 2 bucks a foot for .156 3.5 inch diameter. I will keep shoping around

That's not bad at all! How many feet do you need? A drive shaft can't use more than 3 feet or so, that's only 6 bucks! I just paid almost 8 bucks a foot for some 2" .250 wall!
 
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