Duravent stove piping / wood stove install

[Herzog]

I'm really itching to get my wood stove hooked up in my new (to me) home... This is something I'd normally pay somebody to have it done right but all my current funds are being redirected to finish the shop before hard winter, but man every time I walk downstairs and see the stove sitting there all sad and not lit gives me a tear to my eye.

I've had a local guy come out and quote it and it's not even really that bad... but I'm penny pinching hard right now. I may just have to wait and have him do it for me next spring/summer. BUT, I figured I'd ask if any of you have done this and how it went for you.

Basically - there is already a wall penetration though non-combustible wall. The previous owner re-did the siding and tore down the previous chimney he had built because he had creosote issues with it. So now I'm thinking about just running triple wall duravent up the side. Probably 12' - 16' up. It really doesn't seem that difficult. There will be no roof penetrations or anything. I plan on following code and doing it as proper as I can, I don't want to worry about fire issues at night.

Anybody with experience or tips? Seems I'll be close to $2k in just the parts to do it.

 

[Vonski]

Um, hello? I posted about all this nonsense last winter. 😉 First, double check everything is to code with the stove and routing to the “thimble” (wall penetration part). If all distances and materials legit, you’ll just run out the wall and up using stainless triple-wall up past the roof edge/facia. To pull this off, you’ll need a very expensive “T” with clean out, wall mount, and roof mount or support of some kind. Distance above the roof edge is dependent on roof pitch and there’s a formula for this easily found online. There is a catch which many fail to adhere to, which involves the angle the pipe is going through the thimble. Creosote can be a problem if your horizontal run is level and not going uphill at what I remember being approx. 2.5* or .25”/foot (I’d need to confirm). What’s kinda dumb is that your “T” could be built to offset this angle, but not so. Therefore, the vertical run to the roof is often angled back towards the roof a little, so take that into consideration.

 

[Vonski]

Btw, any “off the shelf” wall mounting or roof mounts are expensive for what they are and not real appealing. I built my own and you certainly could if the motivation’s there. 🤷‍♂️😂

 

[Spork]

Neighbor has this setup on the side of his house. Looks easy to do, his bottom piece looks a lot like Vonski's (even more homemade though ) and the rest just look like enough to keep it attached and in position on the house.

 

[Pile of parts]

Paid people to do mine and wasn't really happy with what they did. Should have done a little more research and done it myself. You have good sources here. Do it!

 

[Vonski]

FWIW, much of my chimney pipe parts are Ameri-vent brand and I can provide part numbers if needed. All triple-wall I’ve seen is stainless and has to meet UL standards, so I’d just go with the best price. Also, opt for a “high wind” cap (bird spikes not included😉).

 

[Herzog]

FWIW, much of my chimney pipe parts are Ameri-vent brand and I can provide part numbers if needed. All triple-wall I’ve seen is stainless and has to meet UL standards, so I’d just go with the best price. Also, opt for a “high wind” cap (bird spikes not included😉).

Please do! Thanks Vaughn!

 

[Herzog]

Paid people to do mine and wasn't really happy with what they did. Should have done a little more research and done it myself. You have good sources here. Do it!

I'm the type of person that just has that itch to do everything myself, but this one time I figured I'd find out what it would cost to do since it's not that complicated but also I could avoid the headache of researching all the code and such especially since I'm in the middle of finishing the shop... well, the sticker shock on the quote was quite a bit more than I expected so here we go!

 

[Herzog]

There is a catch which many fail to adhere to, which involves the angle the pipe is going through the thimble. Creosote can be a problem if your horizontal run is level and not going uphill at what I remember being approx. 2.5* or .25”/foot (I’d need to confirm). What’s kinda dumb is that your “T” could be built to offset this angle, but not so. Therefore, the vertical run to the roof is often angled back towards the roof a little, so take that into consideration.

This is really good info. The wall penetration already does have some angle to it, I was wondering if that was on purpose or not...

 

[Vonski]

This is really good info. The wall penetration already does have some angle to it, I was wondering if that was on purpose or not...

Yep, that’s a good sign they knew what they were doing.