Few question?

[shortstraw8]

If this is the wrong place for this I will move it, I did not feel it was right for the general forum.

I have just bought spark plugs for my wife's 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee, I was wondering what anti-seize you prefer and why, Nickle or Copper or Something else?
I also just read in searching for this that some of you have had problems with the E3 spark plugs. I read on jeepgarage forum (I think is what it was) that they liked them but I'm wondering if they were from the mid-west or somewhere with lower elevation. Just wondering if it is going to give me worse gas mileage (currently getting 15-18) if so I will swap them for the recommended. I have used them before on my old Chevy Celebrity but it was a 4cyl.
Second question on the Jeep is we are due for a timing belt change, I do not want to do this for the fact that I hate timing belts, and we are still paying on it. What shop do you trust I just moved from Spanish Fork to Cottonwood Heights I have my trusted mechanic for the things I do not like to do, but do not want to take it to Provo.

I have a part two and do not think that I should start another thread so I will ask in here. I am going to buy an old 75 or 78 3/4 ton Chevy 4x4 from my uncle, it has been sitting for 5 years. I am rebuilding a carburetor for it, my uncle and brother say that I should clean out the tank so I do not have to re-rebuild the carb. I was thinking that if I get a couple in-line filters and run 10 gallons with some seafoam that I would be good enough to get it from Spanish Fork to Cottonwood Heights then inspect and reseal the tanks if necessary. What are your thoughts? I know I have taken trucks and cars that have been sitting and just drove them with no problems, so I feel that it would be ok.

Thanks for any suggestions and help.

 

[TJDukit]

As far as E3's go I had great luck with them in my 5.3L in my z71 but they fouled after only 3 months in my 4.0l in my last TJ. I put the cheap plugs back in and got better mileage. I'm guessing with the new motor you might do just fine and maybe gain a little by going with the E3's.

 

[jeep-N-montero]

E3 are crap in Jeeps, stick with the Champion copper plugs.

 

[Toad]

I prefer to stick on OE plugs on everything I work on. Dodge has started using NGKs in instead of champions in a lot of their trucks.

 

[Cherokeester]

E3 are crap in Jeeps, stick with the Champion copper plugs.

This ^^^^^^ Don't waste your money on fancy when the tried and true works better.

 

[SLC97SR5]

Copper or nickel will be just fine, nickel is rated for higher heat but your plugs will never get hot enough to reach the rating of either anti-seize.

From CRC:
I. Product Description CRC Copper Anti-Seize and Lubricating Compound is a general purpose anti-seize lubricant that prevents seizing and galling caused by high temperatures, heavy loads, vibration and corrosion. This unique formula has a smooth texture, fine particle sizing and familiar copper color, making it an excellent choice for closely fitted parts that need extreme lubrication. Regular use of Copper Anti-Seize will increase performance and prolong equipment life. II. Applications Recommended to lubricate fittings, bushings, flanges, headers,nuts, screws, studs, threaded surfaces, pipes, plugs, and manifoldsto prevent seizing and galling of surfaces. III. Features & Benefits • Copper-Based. Safe for use on both ferrous and non-ferrous metals. • High Temperature Resistance. Protects parts up to 1800° F. • ElectricallyConductive. Does not insulateand interrupt current flow. • Good Choice for Use on Soft Metal Applications. Does not compromise integrity of softmetals. • Will NotHarden. Heat aging won’t affect lubricity of product. • FacilitatesFast & EasyDisassembly. Saves time in taking apart components.

quote:

I. Product Description CRC NickelAnti-Seize and Lubricating Compound is a nickel-based formulation that is free of copper, lead, sulfidesand chlorides. This premium high temperature lubricant protects metal-to-metal applications from seizing and galling caused by high temperatures, heavy loads, vibration, chemicalsand corrosion. Chemically inert nickel formulation is safe for use with most chemicalsthat are unstable with copper. Thisproduct has extremely high temperature capabilities and excellent chemical resistance. Regular use of NickelAnti-Seizewill increase performance and prolong equipment life. II. Applications Recommended to lubricate metal-to-metal applications where a clean, chemically inert, copper-free formulation is necessary. Will not poison catalyst beds, reaction chambers, or special alloy fittings. May be used on fittings, bushings, flanges, headers,nuts,screws,studs, threaded surfaces, pipes, plugs, and manifolds to prevent seizing and galling of surfaces. III. Features & Benefits • Copper-Free Formulation. For use where a clean, chemically inert and stablelubricant is required. • Extremely High Temperature Resistance. Protects parts up to 2400° F. • ElectricallyConductive. Does not insulateand interrupt current flow. • Good Choice for Use on Soft Metal Applications. Does not compromise integrity of softmetals. • Safe For Use on Both Ferrous and Non-Ferrous Metals. • Will NotHarden. Heat aging won’t affect lubricity of product. • Resistant to Mild Detergents & Alkaline Wash. Protects against rust and corrosion. • FacilitatesFast & EasyDisassembly. Saves time in taking apart components.

 

[shortstraw8]

Thanks for the info guys. I should have come here first I am having issues with returning my E3's because they were on sale, so I might just have to install them and see how bad it is. Thanks SLC I used to use nickle but I ran out and forgot how expensive it is, I think I will try the copper stuff this time.

 

[thenag]

My father in law put them in a 96 zj and my wife's 99 xj, (v8 and 4.0) and they both all the sudden ran like crap, had a check engine light due to cylinder miss fire. Both happened on road trips, the zj was in CA that resulted in paying a shop to diagnose it. Ours was coming back home and we limped home.

This is one of those things that if a simple spark plug improved mpg that much the big 3 would install them on the assembly line.

Nathan

 

[UFAB]

Copper anti seize

Stock OEM plugs recommended

Syphon tank, add new fuel syphon she more. Old gas works great in lawn mowers or pressure washers.

With mechanical fuel pump. Unhook line at carb , crank. Flush a few times.

At additives to gas. Change filters.

Clean carb with B12 spray.

Good luck

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

 

[shortstraw8]

Well I changed the plugs out tonight, long story short the E3 do suck. At idle it takes about three minutes after starting, it starts to die (very ruff idle) then eventually dies (different times every time). So now that there is a problem Summit will take them back, I still have my old plugs and I labeled each one from which it came.
If the problem continues what could the problem be?
I called summit because when I went to change them on Saturday, the E3 were shorter than the old plugs (thread and porcelaine) so I am guessing that that is a huge part of the problem.
Did E3 even check the plugs on this vehicle?