First expedition rig.

kgb

Registered User
Location
Hooper
I have no idea what the motor is, guess I could go look, but out of shear principle I wouldn't put in a motor that you had to take the intake off to change the starter
 

Panos

12Volt Specialist
Location
Salt lake City
no offense man,but what principle ? This is one of the best motors ever built. It is a 4.0 quad cam 6 bolt main V8. Aluminum block and heads, weighs 75lbs more than a 22re. So its power to weight ratio is amazing ! it is very reliable motor 300k for these motors is no big deal. The starters are not a big deal either as long as you replace the contacts every now and again. Check out the connecting rods compared to a 2uz( tundra 4.7)
Flat out it is an amazing motor for power, reliability, smooth running and will get great gas milage in my single cab.


rod003.jpg
 

kgb

Registered User
Location
Hooper
your out driving it and the starter goes out. Not like you can fix it on the side of the road or just go buy a new starter and put it in. I may be misled, but pulling the intake seems to be a lot of work to just replace the starter.

Kind of like the Z34 car that Chevy made, you had to pull out like four other things, radiator over flow, front end support and some others just to change the battery. Not my idea of user friendly.
 

cruiseroutfit

Cruizah!
Moderator
Vendor
Location
Sandy, Ut
your out driving it and the starter goes out. Not like you can fix it on the side of the road or just go buy a new starter and put it in. I may be misled, but pulling the intake seems to be a lot of work to just replace the starter...

The UZ family of motors have been used on everything from mom's daily trip to the grocery store to trips to the Artic and around the world. Since its intro in the Land Cruisers since 1998, I've not heard of a single starter failure that left somebody stranded. When you build a starter that can last 500k, you can put it in anywhere you want ;)

Toyota gear reduction starters will give plenty of notice when they are in need of service, the starter contacts will wear over time resulting in 'clicky' starts but again, they don't just fail. You could have a clicky starter for years, giving plenty of time to address the issue.
 

Panos

12Volt Specialist
Location
Salt lake City
your out driving it and the starter goes out. Not like you can fix it on the side of the road or just go buy a new starter and put it in. I may be misled, but pulling the intake seems to be a lot of work to just replace the starter. .

A valid point if the starters them selves where crap to begin with. Since they are not, it cant be considered a con in comparing pros vs. cons of using this motor. Or even something to worry about.

Any way I am having trouble deciding now if I want to run a automatic or manuel trans. If I run an automatic I think I have narrowed it down to a transmission out of the T100 tucks.

Reasson: 1UZ bellhousing ,oil pump, OD planetary, input shaft will all bolt to this transmission. Also the tcase is a not a hydraulic one like the 2nd gen 3.0 trucks/4runners. It is a removable one big plus if I ever want to do duals..But I doubt I will.

As for a manuel trans, They actually make a bell housing that will allow me to bolt up any W series trans. In my case the W56. I have used this transmission in other builds, only rock crawlers. I dont have any real world experience with them on the road. I know they are tough But how much motor can they candle?

Another option would be the R150.
Pluses 23 spline
cons: I would have to have an adapter plate made ( no big deal, and cheap)
I would have to buy a custom flywheel (not cheap) :-\
 

Max Power

Bryce
Location
Sandy
You should be fine with a w series manual tranny as long as you don't hot rod it all the time. I have always preferred a manual on the open road and for driving on dirt roads. I think they are more reliable and you don't have to worry about them heating up.
 

iamsparticus

Take your Rig to the Edge
Location
Ogden,Ut
To add to what kurt said about the starter on the UZ motors they do give lots of warning before they stop working this is not a retarded chevy starter that starts fine and then you go out and the solenoids are frozen and dosent start at all even after you beat it with a hammer. Freak i hate changing GMC brand starters. When i had to replace my contact points on my 4runner i had weeks of notice with the clicky starts before they finally failed but i procrastinated and did it on the side of the road, but not to bad at all about a couple hours to get it out and back in
 

Panos

12Volt Specialist
Location
Salt lake City
when you are ready for the FOAs let me know I can hook you up.

really? That would be awesome ! I have never used there product but the price seems right for the performance you get and they seem to be tested enough that they are a good enough shock for what i'll need . Do you have much experience with them?
 

Panos

12Volt Specialist
Location
Salt lake City
Headed in a different rout. I am now planning on running a manual transmission. I am debating between the W series or the R series.

The trick to both of these is deciding what fly wheel to use, some people have used a modified 3sgte fly wheel with good luck. only thing is I don't like the idea of either taking off the ring gear and flipping around so the beveled edge makes the contact with the starter. Or grinding the strait cut edge to match the slope of the 1uz's. Then you have to widen the mounting holes, essentially "egg shape them" I don't like that.
Second is using a 3vz flywheel, it has the right ring gear so no messing with that. The bolt holes either have to be widened or re drilled. This is the rout I think I want to go. The biggest difference is when it is compared in weight to the 3gste is 16lbs and the 3vz is 25. You might think lighter is better but actually I would prefer the heavier one in my particular application. The heavier one will keep my inertia going with the added torque of the 1uz.
Third is to have a custom billet flywheel made, and as much as I like the idea its not in the budget.

The W series Is the easiest by far with a bellhousing in production and ready to buy. This rout is the easiest for one major reason, The stock clutch throughout bearing, fork , and almost everything else will bolt up to the new bellhousing. I like this idea, only I don't like having 21 splines and being a "technically " weaker transmission in comparison to the R150; although I know they are supposed to be good for around 300 hp. Now before you flame those numbers remember that is not for a 300hp rock crawler :D its for a street vehicle with moderate off-road.

The R series actually the R150 is what I want to use. Rated at 450hp, There are plenty out there from people parting out their blown head gasket 3.0's, and can be had for cheap. The way I mount this to the 1uz is actually simple, I have a file that allows me to get a adapter plate laser cut. It will now sandwich my stock 1uz bellhousing to the R series transmission. Sounds like a solid plan so far, now it gets tricky. You can either cut a hole in the uz bellhousing and try to fab up a way to make the clutch assembly work, or the way I want to do it is use a t56 center hydraulic throw out bearing type set up. If used, I will only have to drill two small holes for the hydraulic lines to go in and out.

Soooo, If any one has a nice R150 transmission with tcase still on it let me know I am in the market :)
 
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SUPERFLY

CaptainRob
Location
sugar house
For what it's worth, my wseries tranny was and is the ONLY part on my 4runner that I didn't ever have a problem with. It had 240,000+ miles on it, never popped out of gear and shifted great and the last 15,000 was with a 7mge bolted to it
 

Panos

12Volt Specialist
Location
Salt lake City
For what it's worth, my wseries tranny was and is the ONLY part on my 4runner that I didn't ever have a problem with. It had 240,000+ miles on it, never popped out of gear and shifted great and the last 15,000 was with a 7mge bolted to it

actually thats worth a lot! I just cant make my mind up. What clutch did you run Rob?
 
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