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Flat Towing w/Atlas 2spd and 700R4 AT

H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
I just installed a tow bar on my YJ and have never flat-towed a vehicle before, so I've looked all over the net trying to find solid info on how to do this while protecting the trans and t-case. What I'm finding is a lot of conflicting information (even Advance Adapters has conflicting info). I'm wondering if anybody could share their real-world experience towing something similar to my configuration and offer me some advice. I will only be towing relatively short distances for now (5-15 miles to shops and back while I prepare it for safety/IM). It has an Atlas 2-speed, TH700R4 auto trans, Detroit locker in rear. Some people insist the trans should be in park while others say it should be in gear or neutral. Some say it's imperative to remove front and rear driveshafts, but this is not practical for what I'm trying to accomplish and hope there's an alternative. Thanks for any advice.
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
From what I can tell, you're good to flat tow if your t-case will self-oil with the vehicle transmission in gear and the t-case in neutral. I don't know on the specifics of the Atlas but for what it costs, I'd be pulling the rear driveline and unlocking the front hubs just to keep it from spinning. If you find out that the Atlas will oil itself (It may? Similar to a diff?), I'd say you're good to go with the t-case in neutral.


I didn't and won't pay for your Atlas so take my advice with a grain of salt...
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
So I can't send you a bill if you're wrong? ;)

Problem with pulling the driveline is that every time I take it to a shop, I'll either have to re-attach the drivelines in their parking lot at dropoff and remove at pickup or let them tack that onto my bill each time.
 
B

boogie_4wheel

Active Member
Location
North Salt Lake, Utah
I Lean said:
Tranny in Park, Tcase in Neutral. Verify with Advanced Adapters to be sure though.
Click to expand...

The t-case needs to lube via the rear output shaft and not the input shaft. If it lubes via the input shaft, you're gonna need hubs on the rear axle, a driveshaft disconnect, ect.

Since the R4 pump is on the input (like most auto transmissions), it will not lube when only the tail is spun. This shouldn't be a problem because the t-case is in neutral but lube/bearing/shaft friction can cause the input of the t-case to spin and can begin to rotate the internals of the transmission without being lubed. That is why the trans should be placed in Park, to keep the insides from rotating. Being in gear (drive/reverse) wont do you any bit of good. If it was a manual trans, then it could be left in neutral.
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
LOL AA as in alcoholics anonymous?

AAA won't do unregistered vehicles (except that one time I tipped the driver extra for pretending like he didn't notice) and buying a trailer to tow short distances isn't going to work for me for several reasons, mainly because I don't have any intention of towing it long distances and once I get this thing to pass and registered (I won't even need to flat tow it any more). I was just hoping someone out there with an atlas/700R4 might have some experience flat towing. I appreciate the suggestions.
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
yeah, joking. Reminded me of the time though that I had AAA tow it instead (I considered doing that again, but depending on the tow truck driver, they might not tow it)
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
I'll try AA again even though the last interaction I had with them was not very helpful and took them weeks to respond.
 
mbryson

mbryson

.......a few dollars more
Supporting Member
Location
Bountiful, land of rocks
boogie_4wheel said:
..... If it was a manual trans, then it could be left in neutral.
Click to expand...

I know someone that killed a trans/tcase by leaving the trans in neutral (4 speed Early Bronco trans--who knows what it was? SM 420?) and t-case in neutral (Dana 20). Caused an interesting predicament on the freeway as everything in his early Bronco locked up and brought it and the tow rig to a screeching halt. For the potential cost, I'd pull the rear driveline but that's just me. Annoying, yes. Much cheaper than buying another Atlas, though.
 
Jinx

Jinx

when in doubt, upgrade!
Location
So Jordan, Utah
Just thinking out loud.

Would it hurt things to pull the rear driveline altogether for these trips to the shop? You could really leave it at home.

Turn out the front hubs for towing. (the rear will spin freely without a driveline)

When you get to where you are going and need to move the rig, lock in a hub, put it in front only and move the rig around...

Does this make sense? Answer the question?

Heck if the rig needed to go for a test drive at the shop, you could do 4H and still have no rear driveline and the rear output would just spin. (I personally don't recommend going over 40 in 4H, but that is the old school in me)
 
H-K

H-K

INFIDEL
Supporting Member
Location
SLC UT, USA
Brilliant! Does anybody know if doing this front-wheel-drive idea would prevent a shop from being able to perform an emissions/safety inspection?
 
Jinx

Jinx

when in doubt, upgrade!
Location
So Jordan, Utah
I think it's '96 and newer is just "plug and tell" emissions...

Unless you have a non stock motor... but that is salt lake county...
 
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