Flatty addiction - 1953 Willys CJ3B with a V8

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
I have a problem.... I see a neat, old Flatty that hasn't ran in years and I get excited. I fall in love with what could be and only see the potential.

The current distraction is a 1953 Willys CJ3B.... with a Ford Flathead V8! I hauled it home yesterday. It hasn't ran in 20 years, has been sitting out in a field. The steering column was removed because the gear box needed rebuilt. The rebuild was done, but it was never reinstalled. The body is actually decent, the frame looks great, the seats need work, etc, etc.

I hauled it home from an hour away with the Gladiator. I'm impressed with how well that thing tows for a lightweight 1/2 ton. The 3B towed just fine. I've always thought the 3B's were unsightly, but a friend has one and they've been growing on my lately.

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Once it was home, I cleaned the trash out of it, shop vac'd the interior and pressure washed it real good. Then I started on getting it to run, I replaced the plugs, dumping a little Marvel Mystery Oil down the cyl to help break the piston & rings free. I picked up a new battery and installed it ( 6 Volt, positive ground system!! ), then changed out the old oil. I could get it to crank over slowly, but after plenty of cranking and starting fluid, it wasn't ever trying to fire. I checked the spark at the coil and.... nothing. I ran to the parts store for a new coil and once back to the 3B, I decided to check out the points. The distributor cap, rotor and points all looked pretty clean.... almost new inside. I pulled the points apart and cleaned up the contacts, just in case.

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After that, it was hitting on one or 2 cyls with pouring gas down the carb.... I had my wife come run the wire to jump the starter solonoid (it's under the dash, ignition switch isn't working) and after a few tries it started running on 5-6 cyls. After about 15 seconds of spraying with starting fluid, the electric pump started picking up fresh gas and pumping it to the carb!! The thing evened out, started firing on all 8 cyls and even idled smoothly!

Now I need to install a new ignition switch, get it to crank from the key.... install the steering column and gear box, air up the tires, see how bad the brakes are and perhaps just drive it around my property in 4 low.... since I might not have brakes.
 
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I Lean

Mbryson's hairdresser
Vendor
Location
Utah
Nice jitterbug camera. :rofl:

Where's the video of it actually running?

What trans is behind the V8?
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
So I've spent the last couple hours trying to get the steering box & column back in place, so I can drive the damn thing... but it's not going well. I needed to drop the exhaust manifold on the drivers side to get access to install the steering and it came out in 3 pieces.... it was cobbled together and leaking to begin with. The engine block sits right where the threads for the steering arm needs to be. It's WAY too tight. I have the block jacked up, but it's still in the way.

I just want to get it back together so I can drive it!!

I ordered some Flathead flanges, gaskets and tube so I can fab up a new exhaust header.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
So I took a break after getting my a$$ kicked by the steering box.... had some dinner and went back out. You ever have something that's beating you, you take a break and go back to it and it falls together? Well, that's what happened. I had the steering box bolted in place in about 10 min. It's late, getting dark and I'm working outside so I'll finish putting it back together tomorrow and have steering!

To bad I can't drive it with the open exhaust... :rolleyes: Maybe I can scab it together just temporarily.
 

bryson

RME Resident Ninja
Supporting Member
Location
West Jordan
Plans to keep the positive ground retrofit? I really don't think it was that way when if left the Jeep factory. Lots of reports with them working that way after a "farm-fix" (the beauty of a simple electrical system) but most still recommend that you revert it back to the original negative ground. Or better yet, convert it to a 12-volt neg. ground system and be done forever. The 6-volt is cool and all, but the first time you need a jump start you'll be wishing you had 6 more volts.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Plans to keep the positive ground retrofit? I really don't think it was that way when if left the Jeep factory. Lots of reports with them working that way after a "farm-fix" (the beauty of a simple electrical system) but most still recommend that you revert it back to the original negative ground. Or better yet, convert it to a 12-volt neg. ground system and be done forever. The 6-volt is cool and all, but the first time you need a jump start you'll be wishing you had 6 more volts.

The negative 6 volt system is how the early Fords were wired up, this has everything to do with the Generator. The starter doesn't care how it's wired, but the Ford Generator does. It would be easy to swap out the Generator for a GM 1 wire alternator and convert everything over to an updated 12V positive ground system. Jump starting it isn't a problem, positive to positive, negative to negative.... a 12V system jumping a 6V spins the starter faster. I was jumping the '53 with the '48 (which is 12V) yesterday. You don't want to do it for too long, but it works.

We will see if it gets upgraded.... even with a fresh 6V battery, I don't like how slowly it spins the starter.
 

Greg

I run a tight ship... wreck
Admin
Never have been a big fan of the high hood 3b but that with the Ford flathead V8 is seriously cool. Glad to see it running and soon to be driving.

I'm with you on the high hood, but a friend in Moab has an orange one with a old school SBC in it and the look is one that I've started to like.

That said, I wouldn't have picked if it didn't have that Flathead V8!
 
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