Gawynz Manche Thread
- Thread starter Gawynz
- Start date
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- comanche jeep jeep build truck
Made some door panels. Used the old panel as a rough template, then slowly cut/massaged to get to fit well, used 1/8" board, spray adhesive, and the same cover material I used on the visors and back cab panel. After I had the first passenger side panel fitting well the driver side was easy trace and cut.
Drawing lines to each of the outside screw holes made it easy to find them and poke through the material with an awl after they'd been covered up.
Old vs New
The passenger door wouldn't lock from the outside and in general the entire latch mechanism was very stiff, pulled it out and soaked it wth PB Blaster, then scrubbed/picked/cleaned it, then soaked it in WD-40 letting it drip out and wiped in clean. Installed fixing the door lock link and it works good as new.
Taped/bagged off all the interior holes in the door sheet metal to keep dust out and here's the final product. The panel doesn't use the push clips like the original, I just drilled holes for the 9 sheet metal screws you see running around the perimeter.
There are no kidding about 8 connectors under the dash that aren't connected to anything. After searching and searching the interwebs I'm just going to ignore it as I don't see anything nearby they could plug into and I don't have any issues w/ things not working (at least not that I've noticed yet). I'm assuming the XJ and MJ used the same harness and even the same harness for various trim levels and these plugs aren't needed for my vehicle. Once I get the dash and the seats in and give it one last wipe-down I'm calling the interior complete.
Drawing lines to each of the outside screw holes made it easy to find them and poke through the material with an awl after they'd been covered up.
Old vs New
The passenger door wouldn't lock from the outside and in general the entire latch mechanism was very stiff, pulled it out and soaked it wth PB Blaster, then scrubbed/picked/cleaned it, then soaked it in WD-40 letting it drip out and wiped in clean. Installed fixing the door lock link and it works good as new.
Taped/bagged off all the interior holes in the door sheet metal to keep dust out and here's the final product. The panel doesn't use the push clips like the original, I just drilled holes for the 9 sheet metal screws you see running around the perimeter.
There are no kidding about 8 connectors under the dash that aren't connected to anything. After searching and searching the interwebs I'm just going to ignore it as I don't see anything nearby they could plug into and I don't have any issues w/ things not working (at least not that I've noticed yet). I'm assuming the XJ and MJ used the same harness and even the same harness for various trim levels and these plugs aren't needed for my vehicle. Once I get the dash and the seats in and give it one last wipe-down I'm calling the interior complete.
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Pile of parts
Well-Known Member
- Location
- South Jordan
I don't know what you plans are for the armrest and door handle but I had good results with vinly/fabric paint on some sun visors for my Jeep.
My plan was just to leave them faded and old ha, but what you're recommending sounds like a better option; what did you use?
Pile of parts
Well-Known Member
- Location
- South Jordan
Pretty sure it was this. They have a few colors to choose from. Duplicolor makes it too. You can get it at the auto parts stores. I'm surprised at how it has held up on sunvisors. Not sure how it will be on arm rests and things that get handled/used.
Check this out! https://a.co/d/02AMWF8
Check this out! https://a.co/d/02AMWF8
XJEEPER
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland Springs
I used a similar product to "restore" a donor vinyl dash panel from a Chevelle muscle unit. Prepped it well and laid down multiple coats of black over the factory green and it still looked good when I sold it 6 years later.
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Interior is complete! Everything fits (even found a cigarette lighter at the junkyard), everything works (I guess the heat/A/C could us some work), and everything is clean. There are still a few dings and stains but it's character I guess...
The sound system is awesome, I'm very happy with how it all fit and sounds. The PO must have had an aftermarket headunit in it and I'm assuming they had 2 too many cups of coffee given the way they hacked up the bezel/trim to make it fit, not much I can do about it but it kind of annoys me, doesn't look too bad though.
I dug up some images from the very first day I saw this truck, parked in a farmers field in southern Idaho, the images don't really do it justice in showing how much of a mess it was, but here are some before and after pics.
Before:
After:
Next up:
The sound system is awesome, I'm very happy with how it all fit and sounds. The PO must have had an aftermarket headunit in it and I'm assuming they had 2 too many cups of coffee given the way they hacked up the bezel/trim to make it fit, not much I can do about it but it kind of annoys me, doesn't look too bad though.
I dug up some images from the very first day I saw this truck, parked in a farmers field in southern Idaho, the images don't really do it justice in showing how much of a mess it was, but here are some before and after pics.
Before:
After:
Next up:
- I'm excited to use my new bender and compressor, so I think I'm going to pivot to building the front and rear bumpers and some rock sliders.
- I need to replace the seals around the driver and passenger windows as I don't think a carwash or rain would be too kind.
- Need to connect the parking brake to the 8.8.
- I think I've decided I'm going to paint this thing myself... the task seems daunting but I would like to learn and this is the perfect type of project to learn on. I now have a compressor capable, the plan is to tarp off a section of my shop and create a makeshift booth. Lots of reading and youtubing to do on this one.
- Here's the fun one... register, insure, and drive! I'll likely even do this before paint once the weather clears up ha. I'm sure once I start driving it issues will pop up here and there, but I'd like to use it this summer.
Changing gears to the front bumper, finally got to use my new bender and compressor. I spent at least an hour staring at the front end trying to figure out the winch situation and I'm happy with where it turned out. These jeeps actually have the bolt pattern and cutout for a factory winch option that was bolted up behind the front frame rail. That said, those winches must have been smaller because it would have taken quite a bit of trimming to fit my 9500lb winch back there.
What I ended up doing was integrating a front crossmember frame stiffener into the bumper and tying it all back to the frame via the original bumper mounting locations. The winch bolts through the front crossmember of the jeep, then through the 1/8" back bumper plate, then into the winch; the back bumper plate runs from frame rail to frame rail. Two 1/4" plates come forward from the factory bumper mounting locations, they're the same height as the frame rails. Two tube gussets on the driver and passenger side tie the front crossmember of the jeep to the factory bumper mounting locations in the frame rails via the bumper. From there you can see the front tubes (all DOM 1.75"x0.120") of the bumper, minus the bottom tube because I ran out. I intend to plate the passenger and driver sides of the top of the bumper, potentially dimple died with some spots for lights maybe. The front will also be plated/dimpled around the winch with some D-ring points.
Mounting the winch this way let me tuck it as far back as I could without a lot of cutting, it also keeps the engagement knob/switch accessible. The tubes on the bumper are tucked as tight as I can get them, so tight I'll have to remove the engagement knob/switch off of the front of the winch to drop it out the bottom.
I thought about a short "stinger" but right now I'm leaning against it... I think it'll look clean without and what's the point on this vehicle?
Has anyone ever mounted the winch control box under the hood? I don't plan to use it often and I think it'd look clean to hide it under the hood and if it's needed you just prop the hood open a bit while in use.
It's all just tacked together for now, I'm kind of stuck as I need some tubing and sheet metal.
What I ended up doing was integrating a front crossmember frame stiffener into the bumper and tying it all back to the frame via the original bumper mounting locations. The winch bolts through the front crossmember of the jeep, then through the 1/8" back bumper plate, then into the winch; the back bumper plate runs from frame rail to frame rail. Two 1/4" plates come forward from the factory bumper mounting locations, they're the same height as the frame rails. Two tube gussets on the driver and passenger side tie the front crossmember of the jeep to the factory bumper mounting locations in the frame rails via the bumper. From there you can see the front tubes (all DOM 1.75"x0.120") of the bumper, minus the bottom tube because I ran out. I intend to plate the passenger and driver sides of the top of the bumper, potentially dimple died with some spots for lights maybe. The front will also be plated/dimpled around the winch with some D-ring points.
Mounting the winch this way let me tuck it as far back as I could without a lot of cutting, it also keeps the engagement knob/switch accessible. The tubes on the bumper are tucked as tight as I can get them, so tight I'll have to remove the engagement knob/switch off of the front of the winch to drop it out the bottom.
I thought about a short "stinger" but right now I'm leaning against it... I think it'll look clean without and what's the point on this vehicle?
Has anyone ever mounted the winch control box under the hood? I don't plan to use it often and I think it'd look clean to hide it under the hood and if it's needed you just prop the hood open a bit while in use.
It's all just tacked together for now, I'm kind of stuck as I need some tubing and sheet metal.
I mounted my winch controller under the hood of my tacoma and while I rarely use it, it's really annoying to pop the hood to use it. I will relocate it with longer cables at some point in time but it does work. Maybe adapting it to use a wireless remote might be the ticket? I don't know yet.
Looking great!
Looking great!
One thing I would add - make some kind of capture to keep the winch in there if the bolts ever pull the threads out if you mount it like that as opposed to a sheer direction mount and maybe upgrade to grade 8? I dunno, I've always had the mount plate at the bottom.
I went back and forth on this as well, it seems odd just thinking about mounting it this way with the bolts loaded entirely in tension. Plus, you don't see them mounted this way often. To get comfortable I ran the numbers, had to dust off/refresh my school days (hope I did it right ha). The winch supplied hardware is four M10-1.5 grade 10.9 bolts, I verified I had full thread engagement mounting this way. This size/class of bolt has a 10,800lbf proof load, and accounting for the thread tensile stress area you get a tensile strength of 12,000+lbf. On top of that there are four bolts, so it should be fine. If it ever does fail, and the winch comes off the bumper is too tight for it to get through and will catch it.
I had a feeling you'd made some kind of nerdy spreadsheet about it.
Awesome info!
- Location
- West Jordan
I think I'd worry more about the bolt heads pulling through the crossmember than breaking in tension... Especially if the crossmember/mount is only 1/8"+ the stock tinfoil.
That's a good point, I was planning on washers but maybe I should add a plate back there and sandwich it all together.
It's been a busy summer but I pulled this thing out of the corner. The bulk of the front bumper is complete, need to clean a few things up but it's mostly done. Was able to keep it light and tight to the Jeep. The tucked winch fits well, still need to make a back plate to help support the cross member. I think I'm going to copy how @YROC FAB. does his cage roofs and wrap the front/top with some aluminum that's dimple die'd here and there.
Also started the clearancing.
Also started the clearancing.
Rear bumper nearly complete. I wanted a good practice project for notching, joint fitment, and tube joint welding and this definitely was that. Probably overkill for this truck, but it's relatively light, I like the look of it, and should be very stout, all 1.75x0.120 DOM. Started with the top forward most straight tube and built out from there. Used by JD2 Bendicator to identify bend locations which worked great, then took my time and used my Swag plane of bend bracket to ensure the two bent tubes were in plane (the two bent tubes are identical). Then proceeded to make rows of notched tubes first doing the rear most row, then the top row, then the forward most row, progressively getting more complicated notches and tighter welding areas. Throughout the build I bounced around welding a lot to ensure I didn't get a warp. My welds definitely improved as I went along, and I learned the best settings for my given welder and this tube.
The bumper is fully welded and done, just a little more work to attach it to the truck.
The bumper is fully welded and done, just a little more work to attach it to the truck.
XJEEPER
Well-Known Member
- Location
- Highland Springs
Digging the recessed winch bumper setup👍🏼You might want to consider trimming the front fender to match the bottom of the header panel and extending the bumper ends around the corner to protect the header and fender from impacts. This corner has saved my fender and header several times.
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Ya that is one regret I have, I wish I would have thought of that originally. I plan to trim the fender further but the bumper mod is now pretty low on the priority list now. I really like the looks of yours in that pic.