Good shop for diesel repair?

Hi guys,
I'm considering throwing in the towel in on a new-to-me 2000 Power Stroke. First problem was a massive oil leak I developed in the HPOP housing (that is fixed now). Second was a bolt broken off in the head that keeps one of the injectors down. The solution for that: I replaced the head.. The truck is running now and preventatively I tested and replaced one injector. All have new o-rings...

But, for the life of me I can't get the injectors to not leak oil into the fuel system. I have white smoke (and oil) coming into the exhaust...

So, I was thinking I'd have Gillett or one of the other shops take a look at it, run a diagnostic, and possibly do a compression test as well...

Recommendations on good shops would be great...

thanks,
Andre
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wydaho
Hey Andre - I had a pretty good experience with G&R Diesel in Draper. They seemed like really nice and knowledgeable guys.
 

spencevans

Overlander
Location
Farmington
The only place I would take my truck is Moonlight Diesel. Guys who know diesels, know Terry is the best in the business. I have used some of the other shops listed above like Gillett and Wideopen and there is no comparison. Not that the other shops are bad but I would not use them when Moonlight is an option. After using Moonlight diesel my eyes have been opened. Guys bring there trucks to Moonlight from all over the country for a reason.
 
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Thanks guys, I forgot I'd started this thread... I've been to hell and back, let's sort it out:

head
head gasket
3 injectors and 3 more tested and re-o-ringed, 5 installed, 1 ready to go just in case.
glow plugs

It also took me three heads (third one is a charm) before I found one that isn't damaged. Also all along I found out I actually have a good head this whole time on a parts engine that was given to me but I didn't know the headers were interchangeable. Luckily only $80 out on sourcing a good used head from Trans-West. The parts engine (given to me from a guy I found on KSL who has been awesome) was low mileage complete with injectors which has really saved my ass (mostly with injector replacement) but other little things here and there.

I get it all together, I have a copper injector cup that's gotten loose in the head hottank process. Took me a few days to figure this out as well. I take to a Ford tech friend who replaces it for $200. Meanwhile coolant and fuel get contaminated as well as diesel fuel in the oil so I have to replace all this (again).

Back running, psyched finally... Then, going up hill (after I did the CPS recall, so I though it might have been that) I clearly loose a cylinder and develop a miss. Run codes and it's number one. I thought the cyl itself crapped out (after all this time and $$) but replace that injector with one tested from Industrial Injection... That injector ends up being bad as well... A day later, replace again...

And, I finally have the truck runnnig well. I'm psyched and its a nice truck and seems to be running great, it also passes the cyl contribution test with flying colors now. Trans (auto) feels reasonably good for now... The truck is pretty much 100% again, as far as I can tell, luckily.

I'll probably take back to my Ford tech friend before a 1400 mile road trip in 12 days just to have him go over it. But I still managed to bang out almost everything myself. About $1600 and probably 60 hours at least into it I figure, in addition to all those trips to SLC weeks ago....

So I went from zero (knowing nothing about Fords) to pretty extensive understanding powerstoke 7.3, in a month.. Including all of its quirks... For example did most people know that hte *recall* CPS sensor Ford puts out throws off your cylinder balance and issues phantom codes?
 
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Kiel

Formerly WJ ZUK
dieslcruisrhead;629812 For example did most people know that hte *recall* CPS sensor Ford puts out throws off your cylinder balance and issues phantom codes?[/QUOTE said:
Yep, which is why I still have the old one. That recall screwed up a bunch of people
 
WoW
Wish you'd have been a day faster on the truck I sold.

Seriously Meat, that would have been great, especially with that HD trans you put in it. Such is life though. It was my fault as I saw it on there for a few days and didn't think to call you for no good reason. That really was a hell of a deal...

This one really is clean though, not a single ding or nick in the body and the interior is almost immaculate too and literally everything works perfectly including ice cold AC. And the trans is actually pretty solid feeling... I was thinking about putting in a shift kit and new fluid ("Tanner Transmission Power Flush!" if its not too much) bare min, but it almost feels like it already has a shift kit because the shifts are relatively firm. Someone loved it for a long time before the Mexican who owned it last, it still has an EGT gauge probe in the exhaust and the trans temp wiring but they pulled the gauges before they sold it.

When I got it was covered it in cheap plastic fake chrome and I found out it'd recently stopped running (bad HPOP pressure), and then got it repo'd off a car title loan. Luckily he only owned it for 10K miles...

I'd love to replace the torque converter too while I'm at it. When I thought the engine itself might have been shot (I found a pretty good engine used for not too much good compression and known history and still in the truck) I was looking at sourcing different converters and there is a pretty good local rebuilder who can do a three-clutch for about $600. Again its running great, little or no smoke, good power, great stereo LOL, all in all pretty good for the miles on it as it feels pretty tight.

In my mind I keep thinking I should swap it to a Cummins and possibly a manual. I have it on KSL now that its running well but that's only to possibly come up with the $$ for the truck I really wanted which is a manual trans shortbed for a variety of reasons (maneuverability, ease and $$ of a swap to a Cummins :) ). For example where I live I have to think about where I park it otherwise I can get in a spot where I have to do a 10 point turn to get out if I'm not paying attention. I only haul a little here and there, mostly auto parts so the shortbed would be fine for me. If it sells, great, if not no big deal either way...
 
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yotis 4x4

wheelin=church:)
Location
LEHI, UTAH
when one injector goes out, its recomended that you replace all of them. why? because when one goes out thats meaning the rest of them are starting to go as well, causing you more trouble down the road. i just helped my friend replace all of his on his 95 7.3
 

SnwMnkys

Registered User
Location
Orem, Utah
The tranny just went out on my 99 Super Duty. I picked up a Precision Industries "Stallione" torque converter. Theyre absolutely the best TC you can buy for our trucks, but will set you back around $1000, also going to get a custom valve body from Race X. Most everyone recommended a VB over a shift kit. If you cant afford the shift kit then get the Tugger kit from Transgo, rather then just the cheaper shift kit that just replaces a few springs and valves.

between those 2 items you eliminate the biggest weak points in the 4r100 for the average user.

Im excited about the TC, everyone ive talked to said their trucks felt like they just had a 60hp chip installed. Theyre just that more efficient over the crappy factory Ford TC.
 
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