Grinding axle shafts

[Dominic]

Well as I have found out from a broken warn premium hub my passenger side axle shaft is a little to long. The shaft was riding on the backside of the hub and chewed up the threads for the "free" or "lock" cog to ride on. How much can I take off of this stub shaft? I am guessing that with the splines I should have it done by a machine shop right?

 

[jevyguy]

I know people who have cut them with a chop saw. Im not saying you should, but it can be done that way if you go slow and keep it cool. You should be able to cut a 1/4" or so

 

[BCGPER]

I've done it before without any issues. Take your time so you don't put any excessive heat into the shaft, then dress the splines with a high quality triangular file.

 

[Gravy]

I had the same issue with my 60 shafts. I Cut them with an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. Go slow and it shouldn't effect the heat treat. Cleaned and dressed the splines with a file.
I cut as much as I felt I could without weakening the circle clip shoulder.

 

[jevyguy]

from the looks of the pictures, he will no longer have a circlip groove.

 

[Dominic]

from what I have read no c clip should be okay. I have read that Ford Super Duty's with auto hubs axle shafts did not have a spot for the c clip or snap ring and that Warn states it is okay to run without it.

 

[Dominic]

I had the same issue with my 60 shafts. I Cut them with an angle grinder and a cutoff wheel. Go slow and it shouldn't effect the heat treat. Cleaned and dressed the splines with a file.
I cut as much as I felt I could without weakening the circle clip shoulder.

Did it fix the issue with your hub getting smashed?

 

[bryson]

It is a common issue as you know, but I am pretty sure there is a part number for a warn hub dial that is shorter (doesn't stick so far into the hub) that would be way easier than grinding/cutting down the stub... I think it is just a dial from a 30 spline hub that you put into the 35 spline hub body.

 

[Kiel]

I have cut some with a grinder and a skinny cutoff wheel, no issues

 

[I Lean]

They're not too bad to cut, as has been said. Grinder + cutoff wheel, you'll be done before you know it. It will take much longer to take stuff apart and put it back together, than the actual cutting.

 

[Dominic]

It is a common issue as you know, but I am pretty sure there is a part number for a warn hub dial that is shorter (doesn't stick so far into the hub) that would be way easier than grinding/cutting down the stub... I think it is just a dial from a 30 spline hub that you put into the 35 spline hub body.

This is interesting especialy since I am only in need of one new hub.

 

[Gravy]

Did it fix the issue with your hub getting smashed?

I never smashed a hub per-say but the shaft would grind against the hub. Cutting it fixed the issue.

Ultimately, I broke a 35 spline Warn premium on Eagles Nest, got it warrantied and bought a set of drive flanges from Carl (when he was still at Tera).
I don't feel that the locking collar is strong enough when you factor in the higher strength of an alloy shaft. It just seemed like some cheap cast piece: I stripped all the interior splines... it did nothing to the Yukon alloy outer.

Cory did the same thing to a 19 spline D44 warn premium with alloy outers.

I will say that I'd rather blow a hub than a shaft, but I think most hubs are only as strong as a stock shaft. I'd love to see a vendor step up with a hardened locking collar for use with alloy shafts.