Guess who....

[BlackSheep]

made another delivery to me!!

This time he dropped off the multi - piece crossmember kit from Rubicon Express. This is going to replace my single piece crossmember. Access to the tranny and t-case is very difficult with the single piece - I have to remove all of the control arms to pull the cross member. I have a leak from my tranny, and since I'm pulling the single piece, I thought I might as well replace the damn thing.

anyone need a single piece crossmember for a RE kit? I'd let it go cheap!!

 

[BCGPER]

Ah, that brings back some bad memories.......

That very top piece doesn't look familiar. Compressor mount?
(I had to build my own)

 

[Herzog]

Nice... I get to drill out a set of seized bolts in one of those belly pans soon.

 

[Caleb]

Nice... I get to drill out a set of seized bolts in one of those belly pans soon.

not to hijack but...

I had to cut my crossmember off on my YJ because the bolts were seized, I then welded a nut to the end of the bolts cut off studs hanging there and it made them come out piece of cake (I think the heat is what mostly did it). The original head of the bolts I cut off were allen head which promptly stripped right out ofcourse.

 

[waynehartwig]

That bracket in the top of the picture is the tranny mount.

When you install this thing, you gotta use anti sieze like crazy and everywhere. Especially you guys in salt city. What happens is the head of the bolt 'bonds' to the powder coating and locks tight. Then if you ever have to pull it apart, your f'ed - as you all know now!! No fear, though, those are nothing fancy and can be picked up at Fastenal (which is where RE buys their fasteners...) When I have them strip, I just drill out the head and then I'm able to remove the thread part with my fingers, or even reverse the drill and let the bit do it.

Also, on the control arm bolts (the big 7/16" ones) put anti sieze on the shank of the bolt as well. That will corrode in place and you will not be able to get it out of the SF joint wihtout pulling the crossmember out and using a press. I've started to use the stock plated bolts here and so far I've had great success with it. But this should be considered R&D and your results may vary. The stock bolts are plated as well they have a shoulder, that seems to allow the water out of the joint better?

RE's new crossmember is NICE the way it's done. It's all one piece now, and not a bunch of pieces welded together. But be careful, I've had some where the space for the joint is too wide. So when you recieve your crossmember, unbox it and test fit your control arm ends and make sure they are snug and not having a 1/4" gap. This gap will NOT close up when you tighten your bolts!!! Better to know now, then when you can't tighten them down enough to get rid of the side-side slop...

 

[bobmed]

Something we use at work is a left cut drill bit.
I think Fastenal carries them.
When you drill the drill is in revers so when it grabs it spins the bolt out.

 

[Meat_]

What did it come with? Zinc plated grade 5's? Do your self a favor, toss those in the recycle bin and go spend some money on grade 8's. If you find a fastener place 8's are generally le$$ than 5's in a hardware store.

 

[waynehartwig]

Something we use at work is a left cut drill bit.
I think Fastenal carries them.
When you drill the drill is in revers so when it grabs it spins the bolt out.

Nver thought of that, but that would be perfect!!!!

 

[waynehartwig]

What did it come with? Zinc plated grade 5's? Do your self a favor, toss those in the recycle bin and go spend some money on grade 8's. If you find a fastener place 8's are generally le$$ than 5's in a hardware store.

RE uses all grade 8... Unless it's for something minor, then it's grade 5. But all of the suspension stuff is grade 8...

 

[Meat_]

RE uses all grade 8... Unless it's for something minor, then it's grade 5. But all of the suspension stuff is grade 8...

That's good. Except that there is nothing minor, I buy 98% grade 8 the few exceptions being small (1/4 or less) stainless stuff in high corrosion places, and arp's. Grade 5's are a waste of metal, and I think anyone making/selling grade 2's should be put in jail.

 

[Herzog]

Wow, this got hijacked!

I think the pan is great design and it works very well. Just those silly counter sunk allen bolts... not really that big of a deal though.

 

[BlackSheep]

I'm a firm believer in grade 8 bolts. I have not opened the package yet, but the bolts I saw in there were grade 8. Thanks for the tips on the never sieze.

One thing....this thing did not come with any mounting instructions....While it is not a terribly complicated item, am I supposed to weld in the frame inserts? I have sent RE an email asking for a set of instructions, so hopefully, I hear from them today.

As far as I'm concerned, not a total hijack.

 

[BCGPER]

Try this:

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Img/Products/Pn/1/2051/PDF/Instructions/0.pdf

 

[waynehartwig]

Try this:

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Img/Products/Pn/1/2051/PDF/Instructions/0.pdf

That's it! I've done lots of these, so give me a call 866-391-6640 and I'll give you some tips and tricks!

The second (first was never sieze) is do NOT use drill bits! You'll spend tons of cash on them and not make any holes. If you HAVE to use hole saws. I advise using these:
With those I can drill all of the 1" holes in about 15 minutes - literally! These cut through that 1/4" frame like butter and leave a nice, clean and sqaure hole afterwards. They are a little spendy, but well worth it. The hole saws are much less, but they will take forever and after you get the 1" holes done, you'll want to call it a day.

 

[waynehartwig]

That's good. Except that there is nothing minor, I buy 98% grade 8 the few exceptions being small (1/4 or less) stainless stuff in high corrosion places, and arp's. Grade 5's are a waste of metal, and I think anyone making/selling grade 2's should be put in jail.

True... But there are some places that it doesn't matter and the 5's are just fine. I believe these same areas they can't buy a grade 8? Makes no difference to me, really (5 or 8 in the non structural areas)...

 

[BlackSheep]

Try this:

http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Img/Products/Pn/1/2051/PDF/Instructions/0.pdf

Thanks Brian. I actually spent a while looking for those instructions on the RE website last night, but could not find them. It looks like I have the option to weld or not to weld.....

 

[BlackSheep]

That's it! I've done lots of these, so give me a call 866-391-6640 and I'll give you some tips and tricks!

The second (first was never sieze) is do NOT use drill bits! You'll spend tons of cash on them and not make any holes. If you HAVE to use hole saws. I advise using these:
With those I can drill all of the 1" holes in about 15 minutes - literally! These cut through that 1/4" frame like butter and leave a nice, clean and sqaure hole afterwards. They are a little spendy, but well worth it. The hole saws are much less, but they will take forever and after you get the 1" holes done, you'll want to call it a day.

Thanks for the hole saw link....Since I already have the one piece, I am covered for at least two of the holes. That only leaves 8! I'll have to check around locally to see what is available. I used hole saws when I installed the one piece, but only had to drill two (maybe four) holes.

I have to do some work in my toyota today, so I might not get to the crossmember until next weekend. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

 

[waynehartwig]

Thanks Brian. I actually spent a while looking for those instructions on the RE website last night, but could not find them. It looks like I have the option to weld or not to weld.....

You do have that optioin, though they might fall into the frame rail! Drilling the backside of the frame is a lot more difficult if you don't as well. Here's what I do, it's a little different than RE's instructions...

I drill the 1" hole through the side of the frame.

Insert the spacers into each hole. If you put your finger in the hole and push while you rotate the spacer, it will sit flush to the other side. Then you know it's square to the frame rail. Then weld it in place. The one spacer furthest back, is right at the point where the frame bends. Some will grind the spacer to an angle to match the bend. I don't worry about it. The crossmember is straight, and does not follow the bend. When tightening it up, it will meet the flatness of the spacer.

THEN take the drill and use that spacer as a guide to drill through the other half of the frame. Now you KNOW that hole is perfect in line and won't need to oblong the hole later.... If you want to go one step further, go back and drill the backside of the frame out with a larger drill afterwards. Then you can weld the backside of the spacer as well.

Then grind the welds flush, degrease the area and primer/paint.

When you put the xmember up in place, RE suggests assembling it first. I suggest putting the rails in place loosely. Then put the center section in place, loose as well. After you get it all up there (all the bolts started), tighten the center section (counter sunk bolts), then tighten up the other bolts. Doing it this way makes it MUCH easier!!

 

[BlackSheep]

You do have that optioin, though they might fall into the frame rail! Drilling the backside of the frame is a lot more difficult if you don't as well. Here's what I do, it's a little different than RE's instructions...

I drill the 1" hole through the side of the frame.

Insert the spacers into each hole. If you put your finger in the hole and push while you rotate the spacer, it will sit flush to the other side. Then you know it's square to the frame rail. Then weld it in place. The one spacer furthest back, is right at the point where the frame bends. Some will grind the spacer to an angle to match the bend. I don't worry about it. The crossmember is straight, and does not follow the bend. When tightening it up, it will meet the flatness of the spacer.

THEN take the drill and use that spacer as a guide to drill through the other half of the frame. Now you KNOW that hole is perfect in line and won't need to oblong the hole later.... If you want to go one step further, go back and drill the backside of the frame out with a larger drill afterwards. Then you can weld the backside of the spacer as well.

Then grind the welds flush, degrease the area and primer/paint.

When you put the xmember up in place, RE suggests assembling it first. I suggest putting the rails in place loosely. Then put the center section in place, loose as well. After you get it all up there (all the bolts started), tighten the center section (counter sunk bolts), then tighten up the other bolts. Doing it this way makes it MUCH easier!!

Thanks Wayne! Excellent tips! I only have a cheapo arc welder...do you think that will do the job of welding them in place? I was thinking about getting a real welder, but as you have seen, I've been spending a lot of money lately!

I do want to have a nice welder, but I don't want to have to put it on my credit card. Sears sells Hobart welders, and the iron man 210 is about $1100....that's a lot of cash to drop after spending all I have on the parts I have recently bought.

although.....payday is just a few days away......

 

[waynehartwig]

Thanks Wayne! Excellent tips! I only have a cheapo arc welder...do you think that will do the job of welding them in place? I was thinking about getting a real welder, but as you have seen, I've been spending a lot of money lately!

I do want to have a nice welder, but I don't want to have to put it on my credit card. Sears sells Hobart welders, and the iron man 210 is about $1100....that's a lot of cash to drop after spending all I have on the parts I have recently bought.

although.....payday is just a few days away......

I have a little 135A Lincoln (3200HD I think) that I paid like $400 for. It works very well for things like this. It will do up to 5/16 in a single pass, but I don't care much for it over 1/4". Point being you can pick this up for a lot less and use it....

As for the arc welder, your guess is as good as mine. I haven't arc welded for 25 years or so? I've done some hardening stuff, but for that you don't need any kind of accuracy or beauty...Just lay a fat bead, move over an inch and do it again.