H1's vs. H2's

Johnny Quest

Johnny Quest

Web Wheeler
Location
West Jordan
So i'm doin an axle swap in the XJ, and need some 8-lug wheels. While I could go with some 8-lug soft 8's, I'm leaning towards either H1's or H2's, I can't decide.

H1's are sweet cause theyre cheap beadlocks/double beadlocks, they can be recentered to a variety of backspacing, and give the rig a bad ass military look. They can also be bought mounted with 37" military take offs for like $800. But theyre 16.5" so the tire selection is minimal, and theyre steel, so theyre heavy.

H2's are sweet cause theyre aluminum, (light) and 17", so there's a better variety of tires choices, and they look pretty sweet (bling). But theyre not a beadlock, and i've heard that welding beadlocks onto them can be challenging.

so what would you guys do?? the rig is going to see mostly trail use with the only road use being driving to the trails and the occasional ice cream run
 
My vote is for the h2 wheels. They hold the bead pretty well. By the time you pay to recenter the h1's and deal witht the internal bead lock/run flat the price starts to add up.
 
Too Far said:
My vote is for the h2 wheels. They hold the bead pretty well. By the time you pay to recenter the h1's and deal witht the internal bead lock/run flat the price starts to add up.
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False> The inner beads on H2's are garbage. I've seen MBryson lose an inner bead just by winching someone at an angle.
So really if you want to run h2's then an inner lock like staun's are definitely something you'll want.

they do look sick. and they are light.

H2's are an alloy aluminum so it's general consensus that welding an outer beadlock ring or rock ring is difficult: thus the only two companies that made them quit doing it. And I personally have seen them crack.



http://www.trailworthyfab.com/124-Dollar-8-Bolt-Hummer-Wheel-Special.html
$124 each for recentered beadlocks. add pvc insert for $50 more.

either way you swing it: custom wheels aren't cheap.
 
gravesdiggerxj said:
False> The inner beads on H2's are garbage. I've seen MBryson lose an inner bead just by winching someone at an angle.
So really if you want to run h2's then an inner lock like staun's are definitely something you'll want.

they do look sick. and they are light.

H2's are an alloy aluminum so it's general consensus that welding an outer beadlock ring or rock ring is difficult: thus the only two companies that made them quit doing it. And I personally have seen them crack.



http://www.trailworthyfab.com/124-Dollar-8-Bolt-Hummer-Wheel-Special.html
$124 each for recentered beadlocks. add pvc insert for $50 more.

either way you swing it: custom wheels aren't cheap.
Click to expand...

yea i'd go through trailworthyfab for the H1's if i went that way. recentered wheels with 37" tires for $800. then maybe some rock rings and pvc at a later date for another $350ish.
 
I'm preparing a set of H2's for my buggy. So far I had to bore out the centers to fit the larger D60 hubs but that wasn't too bad using a wood router. It was actually quite easy but messy. Another thing is that the H2's are cast aluminum so a hard hit will certainly crack them or at least chip away at them.

I have a set of Inner Air Locks getting ready to go onto them. Should be interesting.
 
As alluded to in the above posts, I've had some good/bad experiences with H2s. They are cheap and somewhat light. They really aren't fans of hard use as they chip and crack as the bead runs along a rock. I like the offset with my full width axles. With a 40" Kevlar MTR, I'm about 82" sidewall/sidewall on a Chev front 60. Some offset wheels on a stock TJ axle are about 78-80" so I'm in somewhat "stock" looking. In the above experience that gravediggerXJ mentions, I was winching and maneuvering my Jeep while trying to dead pull a 4500 lb benyj Jeep up a decent waterfall. I rolled the sidewall under the tire as I was trying to pull and change direction. Not exactly brilliant driving on my part. I should just let the winch do it's job.

I have not had to bore the centers on either set of H2 wheels I've had. It seems like the guys running a F*rd 60 need to do that, but that's unscientific observation on my part. (not a hard and fast rule)

Herzog, I've thought seriously about the Inner Air Lock. I'll be watching your experiences closely. I've been about to pull the trigger a few times on a set, but have had something come up each time (plumbing or other house issue, ball joints on my truck, refrigerator in my camp trailer....something).

I built my front axle to run H1 wheels with the stock offset/backspacing (there's a difference, I just don't know which is what). The only "cool" tires at the time (and I think now?) that are 16.5" are Swampas of whatever flavor. If you're cool with Swampas for your rig, it's a decent solution. If you have ANY inclination of running your rig on the street, I'd find a different solution. The H1 wheel/Swamper combos that I ran wouldn't even come close to balancing enough to hit about 40 mph. GREAT off-road solution if there's a tire that works for you (PitBull ?).

I'm not a fan of the black wheels, but if that look is for you, go for it. I got a lot of compliments with the H1 wheels. I really didn't care for the form/aesthetics, but the function was pretty solid.

I might seriously think about a steel 17" wheel if I were you. Do a weld-on beadlock and be done. (I've considered exactly that, but still have the H2. I don't think the bead is specifically WORSE than other wheels, but I never rolled a bead on unbeadlocked 15" wheels with 32, 33, and 35" tires. With 16" or 17" wheels and 37-40" tires, I've lost a bead three times. Once in a BAD spot and the other two, not so bad, but annoying.)
 
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I run stauns in my h2's with good results. But like everyone said I have some pretty big gashes and dents in them also. I thinik I might switch to 17 steels next time with a weld on rock ring with my stauns next go around
 
here is what I was referring to. H2's don't have much of an inner bead
h2w04.jpg

img0313x.jpg


images

here's the thread on why they had so much trouble with a weld on beadlock
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=447302&highlight=h2+weld+beadlock&page=7

Would I run them if I had a set with tires?
most definitely with a stauns. I think they are cool.
 
Kiel said:
I run stauns in my h2's with good results. But like everyone said I have some pretty big gashes and dents in them also. I thinik I might switch to 17 steels next time with a weld on rock ring with my stauns next go around
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I wanted to do this originally but it's hard to find a steel wheel with the 5.5" backspacing for a deal better than the H2's. But I agree, I'll probably pony up and go that route eventually.
 
mattamd_xp said:
Stock 2003-2010 Dodge ram 2500 and 3500 run steel 17x8 wheels with roughly the same backspacing as an H2.
scroll down to the steel wheels. 2nd one under that list. $150 each brand new. I picked up a set (4) of them used for $300 shipped to my door. Nice looking wheels that you can add a weld on bead lock kit to.
http://www.originalwheels.com/dodge-wheels/trucks2500rims-2010.php
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I forgot about those and I've even run the Dodge wheels (16" versions) before. They actually have MORE backspacing than the H2s.

These ones. I'm assuming the 17" wheels would have the same/similar backspacing.
IMG_3287.JPG
 
The backspacing on the rims is just under 6.25" when you factor in the offset of the rims. (43.1mm offset) Suck the wheels back quite well and being 17" they clear the steering/factor brakes on a D60. I'm at work so I can't post pictures, but I'll try and remember to tonight.
 
mattamd_xp said:
Stock 2003-2010 Dodge ram 2500 and 3500 run steel 17x8 wheels with roughly the same backspacing as an H2.
scroll down to the steel wheels. 2nd one under that list. $150 each brand new. I picked up a set (4) of them used for $300 shipped to my door. Nice looking wheels that you can add a weld on bead lock kit to.
http://www.originalwheels.com/dodge-wheels/trucks2500rims-2010.php
Click to expand...

I originally picked up a set of steel dodge wheels (2003+) to run but ended up puting them on my 2001 dodge. The backspacing was 6.25" IIRC, and H2 backspacing was more like 5.5". The dodge wheels pulled the width in just a little too much for me.

mbryson said:
I'm assuming the 17" wheels would have the same/similar backspacing.
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Yes the 16" and 17" dodge wheels have the same backspacing.
 
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