Heating a Cold Shop?

Gawynz

Active Member
Location
Ogden, UT
I bought a house a couple years ago and with the house came a shop which I've very much enjoyed, but I'm tired of freezing my butt off in the winter. The building is 32' wide x 34' deep x ~24' tall, stick built, corrugated roofing and siding, with no insulation. Previous owners just used it as a storage building for their RV, boat, etc. so I guess not much need for insulation. I don't intend to live in the home for more than a couple more years, so I don't know that I want to put money into insulating as I'm not sure how much resell value it adds. Other than wearing more coats and toughening up, any advice on staying warm working in the winter months? I only work in about 1/3 of the shop space, I'm curious if anyone has experience/advice with electrical heaters that are either portable or stationary that can just keep the area I'm working warm-ish (read ~hoodie temps)? I do not have a gas line to the shop. Also, I'd like to avoid burning fuels seeing as how it's pretty well sealed and doesn't have a lot of ventilation/circulation. Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated.
 

J-mobzz

Well-Known Member
I’ve tried some 240v electric heaters. I honestly don’t think it will put a dent in the temps on that space.
I would say suck it up and layer up or suck it up and run a gas line. The good thing about most gas shop heaters they are easy to take with you when you move. My last house I actually even took all the flex gas line with me too along with the heater. Aside from the cost of the gas line from the house to the shop everything else can move with you.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
This, but buy two of them at least. I use one in my garage, but it's about half the size you're talking about and only a 11' ceiling. It's also insulated. You might get a diesel torpedo heater to get the temp up faster. The patio heaters don't heat the air up quickly, but the heat remains longer after I shut them off.
 

Pike2350

Registered User
Location
Salt Lake City
I second building in a "paint booth". If you can out some sort of ceiling in place that is only 10'(assuming you dont have a lift or anything) this will help keep some of the heat you make stay lower to you. Plastic rolls in a heavier mil would be fine. You coukd do the same for walls in areas you use. Just build some basic 2x4 walls without the every 16" center...but enough to be able to wrap in plastic or something and that would help a lot once you heat.

Also you could apply thermal barrier to the metal to help....some sort of reflective sheeting or even foam insulation...but that might be getting more expensive.

No point in trying to heat the all the cubic foot of the building if you arent using it.
 

1969honda

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Cache
Welding screens, then you get the heavy plastic mill barrier you want for a wall and you don't have to worry about anybody walking in while you're striking an arc.
 

Tebbsjeep

Well-Known Member
Location
Ogden
I would think putting in a used wood stove and punching a vent through the wall would be the most heating for the money.

I even have a few empty oil drums that I might be able to convince my boss to give away, if you want to scab together your own.
 

Herzog

somewhat damaged
Admin
Location
Wyoming
I would think putting in a used wood stove and punching a vent through the wall would be the most heating for the money.
Or even building one of those dual oil barrel ovens. That'd be awesome.

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But you gotta port the chimney out. Still, I'd totally go that route if I had the extra room or need.

I personally use a combo of one of those propane jet/torpedo heaters to heat up quick then a 240v heater to maintain.
If I plan ahead, I run out and kick on the 240 for 30-45 min and it's decent... but my shop is also insulated.
 

Greg

Make RME Rockcrawling Again!
Admin
Also, get some rolls of plastic or tarps and frame in a poor man's paint booth in the area you're using. Just the plastic will make a big difference once you start heating the area you're using.

I did this exact thing in a very cold, 2 car cinder-block garage, the rafters were open and the building just SUCKED out the heat. I tossed some thick plastic up on the bottom of the rafters and secured it with small strips of wood. It made it tolerable far as retaining some heat, but I was burning propane (construction heater) all the time when it was cold outside and I was working in the garage.

I've heard good things about those torpedo kerosene heaters, one of my neighbor uses one and says it will get his insulated garage up to t-shirt temps in no time at all. I think you'll need something with high BTU's just to make it feel decent.

My current shop is insulated & I have a wood burning stove.... it's great, but I find myself adding wood and tending to it decently often. I want to upgrade to a pellet stove, so I can fire it up the evening before a long day in the shop and come out to a toasty shop the next day.
 

1969honda

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Cache
I'm in the process of installing a 40k radiant tube heater in my garage, but it's attached to the house and a gas line is only 20' away in the attic.

In this case I would go with Herzog's idea or find a cheap wood burner on ksl/FB marketplace. A simple wall thimble rated for a stove to punch a vent is only $15, another $50 in duct materials and some time you'll be warm in a hurry.
 

Hickey

Burn-barrel enthusiast
Supporting Member
My torpedo heater is a 110,000 btu and it gets my 800 sq/ft garage up to t-shirt temps in under 20 minutes, but it's really just the air that's hot at that point. All of the vehicles and the floor are still pretty cold for another 45 minutes of running it. It also stinks, especially when the fuel runs out. When it runs out, I'm done working I the garage because all the doors have to be opened to vent the nasty out.

The cheap barrel stove might do a great job, if you've got a good source for wood. I'd hook you up with wood from my property but it's too late to be cutting for this winter up there.
 

OCNORB

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Location
Alpine
I installed a mini-split this summer after insulating. It does a pretty nice job of keeping the shop warm- I keep it on it's lowest setting, which is 61F.
Bought the unit from PowerSaveAC.com for $589 with free shipping! Very easy DIY install. I was chillin' at 71F when it was 105F outside this summer.

I'm planning to build a small oil burner stove to augment the mini-split and help me get rid of some waste oil I've accumulated.
 
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