Help: 96 XJ Engine Shut off while driving

[Zerkalo]

So this happened twice before today, and it got started right away. and everything was fine, until today.


Model: 96 XJ, 4.0L


Symptoms:
1) I was driving, and the engine shut off, steering goes numb. brake still works. so I was able to slide on the side of the road and stop the car.


2)Then, I switch to Park from Drive, and it won't start no matter what.


3) I was able to start again, in Drive. But i can only get it started without my foot on the brake.


4) After the engine goes back on, as soon as i give it a little gas, the engine shuts off again.


I was about 1/2 mile from home so I tripped home, with engine shutting down about 5 times.


Just when I was about to parallel parking into the drive way, it shuts down AGAIN, leaving the car in the middle of the street.


And this, time no matter what I do, it won't start.. I had to wait for 2 mins, and restart the car by the method above. And then, without driving any further, I put it in park, and turned off the engine.. Finally, I restart the car as normal, and it drives fine again..


Extra Info:
Before this happened, I 2 errors that is causing the check engine light to go on and off. Then I noticed the temperature gauge is not working. Auto Zone told me they are caused by coolant sensor, and Neutral Safety Switch(NSS). But I thought the NSS won't engage after you start the car… so please explain more if you think NSS caused this.

 

[Herzog]

Crankshaft position sensor, possibly?

 

[Seven]

I am far from expert, however I did own a 99 XJ for many years.

CPS( crank position sensor) like herzog said However I think that usually they don't slowly go out. when they go bad you can't start at all
Also could be fuel related. Check fuel filter, fuel injectors, fuel rail. This would be the first thing I eliminate. Have someone crank it while you watch the engine to make sure your not leaking fuel out of injectors or rail. I have seen this twice with XJ's
Catalytic converter can also cause similar symptoms. Also check O2 sensors.

Have you tried kicking the tire???

could be anything but I would look at those things first.

 

[Zerkalo]

well do you know how much would a replacement cost...?
and most importantly where is it located?

I'm a total beginner when it comes to cars, do you think I can pull and replace it myself, saving some $$$ for labor.

 

[smartass_kid]

GOOGLE! but seriously, google your jeep year and CPS location and you should find some pictures or thread from XJ sites telling you location. if I recall, CPS is like $25 at parts store. it does sound fuel related but start with cheap parts and go from there.

 

[Seven]

I am far from expert, however I did own a 99 XJ for many years.

CPS( crank position sensor) like herzog said However I think that usually they don't slowly go out. when they go bad you can't start at all I don't remember the price, but I don't think it was cheap. It is located on the bell housing of transmission close to where it mates to engine more on drivers side. you will need some very long ratchet extensions to be able to get it off. it could be this but I would try eliminate other stuff first.
Also could be fuel related. Check fuel filter, fuel injectors, fuel rail. This would be the first thing I eliminate. Have someone crank it while you watch the engine to make sure your not leaking fuel out of injectors or rail. I have seen this twice with XJ's fuel filter should be cheap I don't know where it is located on a 96 but should be able to find on internet easily where it is located. Fuel injectors while they are not cheap are usually easily replaced.
Catalytic converter can also cause similar symptoms. Also check O2 sensors. both can be had for about 100.00

Have you tried kicking the tire??? Cheap and easy. Several write ups on the internet if you look hard enough.

could be anything but I would look at those things first.

I am going to revise my done first list. You can buy a light that plugs into you spark plug wire that lights up if you have power. I would first try to figure out if it is Spark or fuel that is causing your problem first. Also do you know anyone that has a reader to plug into your obd port that would tell you what codes you are throwing? You might be able to "Rent" a reader from your local auto parts store. either way look what codes your throwing first. and then try to figure out if it is spark or fuel that is causing your problem.

I am sorry that it may sound confusing but it is hard to diagnose over the internet. Plus I am not a mechanic by trade, I have had to learn over the years. Sometimes I guess right and other times I have replaced a lot of parts that didn't need replacing trying to find the problem.

 

[smartass_kid]

good information, found some more when I searched and they are about 25

 

[Toad]

Stay away from the parts stop crank sensors. OEM is the only way to go. More money but the aftermarket ones suck. Were are you located?

 

[Zerkalo]

Salt Lake City.. I have no clue which shop to go or good parts. Googled all over..

 

[Herzog]

The CPS is located on top of the transmission tunnel and can be a pain in the arse to change out, but it's not the worst thing. Two bolts hold it in at about the 11:00 position on the transmission bell housing. IIRC you can take the crossmember off and lower the transmission/tcase a little bit to give you more room.

While I agree that OEM for the CPS is a good choice, an aftermarket part will get you going and while be cheaper. Besides, if the CPS isn't the problem you are only out $25 and could possibly return it. (I'd suggest keeping it as a spare).

Edit - Here's a photo of the sensor in the bellhousing:

 

[Zerkalo]

thanks a lot Herzog, for going so far to post a pic for me..

I think CPS definitely need to be fixed, because this morning I found this:



From the picture you can see, CPS wire protection is burnt through.
so I guess, the wire was leaning against the engine wall,
When the engine gets hot, it messed up the connectivity.


My temp remedy is to tape it away from the engine, and wrapped the burnt area.

But apparently, NSS fault make me starting from Drive as well.